Advanced setups

Salve, ho un oled Lg serie C con porta Hdmi Earc,collegato alla soundbar Beam 2 piu 2 sonos one sl se guardo ad esempio netflix compare il logo dolby Vision e dolby Atmos ma nell’app sonos S2 mi dice che sta trasmettendo in Dolby Multi chanel 5.1 perche???grazie

I have recently changed our home Wifi to TP Link Omada as our existing Wifi didnt reach around the home, I am planning on adding some managed switches too which I think will help with our sonos setup in the long run. I currently have a number of devices hard wired (wifi off), a boost and some on wifi (should be sonosnet) We have had performance issues on and off over the years and hard wiring some of the sonos appears to have fixed it, the office and nursery speakers are hard wired as they are the furthest from the Boost. Would an additional boost help? Since changed to Omada APs, our devices connected by WiFi arent able to play anything, the wired devices are still functioning, these are currently connected to dumb switches. Our network matrix is as below:  Any advice, suggestions are appreciated. I plan to move the location of the boost again as a first port of call. Does anyone use TP Link Omada and know the best settings to use?

Dear Sonos, I have just spent an entire day downgrading all my speakers back to the S1 App because one of my son’s friends attempted to play music with the S2 App. How can you allow someone to upgrade my entire system WITHOUT my permission and render it completely 🤬 useless??!!!!!

I have a large Sonos S2 installation (22 Amps, several beams, arc, etc).  I have an original Sub that was part of a room that has an Arc, and two Ones for LS and RS. It has worked flawlessly for a long time.  I recently bought a Sub Mini, and used it to replace the Sub.  I’ve been trying to connect the (original) Sub to a different room comprised of two Amps (one for the front speakers, and one for the surrounds).  I’ve gotten it to connect, but then it seems to disappear from the system.  (ie the room shows up as (LS+RS+?) in the System list and the Sub no longer shows up in “About my system”.   If I then power cycle the Sub, it still doesn’t show up. I’ve then done a factory reset on the Sub, and added it back to my system, but again it disappears after being connected to the room. I should perhaps add that It is hit or miss on adding the Sub to the room (I think what’s happening is it gets added, but immediately disappears). Everything appears to be running the latest and greatest s

I have to run S1 to control my old Bridge and Connect: Amp.I want to add a Sonos Arc for my TV, which must run on S2.I tried to set this up on my phone but could not.What am I missing? Why didn’t they just make a remote for the Arc?  Maybe that too retro-old timey but it works and can be set up without a Sonos PhD. 

Does Sonos integrate with Lovesac StealthTech?

Hi everyone ! I had trouble to find a way to connect my sonos beam and move to my tv. After a few tries I found that having the sonos beam connected by hdmi to the tv and the sonos move connected by wifi you could have them both working together for movies etc by using the app Sonos.  It helps sync both speaker even if they aren’t connected the same way. Hope it helps you !

I have a projector Optoma projector with HDMI and HDMI MHL outputs for image and sound. Talking with the Sonos Commercial area, the didn’t recommend me to buy the Beam (Gen 2) because if I don’t have a device (TV or Projector) with ARC output, I can have problems with the synchronisation of the sound and the image. ¿is there any solution? ¿is this a real problem, or the appreciation would be minimal?. Thank you. Regards, Enrique inputs and outputs Optoma 

Hi there, My office moved into a building recently that has a huge projector screen and a projector.  We are able to project visuals from any laptop via a cord that connects the laptop to the projector’s HDMI-in port.The office also has a set of four Sonos One (or One SL, not too sure of the difference) that we have set up wirelessly in each corner of the room.  Our goal would be to get the sound from the laptops/projector to the speakers.  The projector has an audio-out port via auxiliary, and the office also has a Sonos Amp.  So we bought an aux to RCA cable - goes from the projector’s audio-out port to the amp’s RCA audio-in port in hopes the amp would send the sound coming from the projector to the speakers.Ideally, I thought this would work logistically.  After messing around a bit, I was able to get it to work, but the sound would only go through ¼ of our speakers and there was about a 3-5 second delay from the video on the projector and the sound from the one speaker.Can anyone

Hei, Jeg kjører Sonos Trådløst over WiFi 2, 4 Ghz som “Teknsik nett” - med andre smart Home produkter. Laptop kjøres normalt i eget WiFi nett til ordinære klienter - 5 Ghz. Det benyttes to Asus routere satt opp med AiMech, RT-AX86U - versjon: 3.0.0.4.388_20566. Teknisk nett på 2,4 Ghz kjører kun fra den ene Asus-routeren som er plassert i kjeller.Det er god dekning for alle Sonosprodukter - 12 totalt - ikke noe lag eller problem med lyd, men:Om jeg er på soverom i 2. etg. kjøkken i 1. etg, stue i 1. etg. og lytter til Sonosradio stopper denne opp i rundt 10 sekunder når jeg starter opp min laptop (5 Ghz) og så fortsetter den som normalt… Lytter jeg på musikk via Spotify har jeg ikke dette problemet. Velger jeg å benytte 2,4 Ghz på pcen har jeg heller ikke dette problemet - kobler altså til samme tekniske nettverk som Sonos benytter.Hva kan gjøres for å finne ut av årsaken til denne “pausen” under oppstart av pcen? Litt irriterende kan man si.. Jeg bruker Sonosradio - P4 Radio hele Norg

I have an Arc, 2xOne speakers & sub which havent been working for a while now. Im waiting for a long ethernet cable to arrive so that i can try and use that to connect to arc and see if it works. Ive spent about 200 million hours on the phone with sonos support and cant get this working.  I have an Orbi router that came with my new ISP.  When i log into the router it seems as though the Sonos system has got a 10.10… IP address and the rest of devices connected have 192.168…. Sonos support seems to think this is causing the issues as the speakers cant communicate and are therefore not showing on the app. But they dont have a solution as to how to fix it. Can anyone help?

I just moved into a new home, the previous owners left a AV system with in wall speakers connected to a receiver. I own a Sonos amp from my previous home, can I use this to connect the receiver to Sonos? I understand that this is usually done using a port but I am wondering if I can use the existing component which I own instead of buying a new product Thanks for your help!

I have 2 Play5 gen 1 installed as a stereo pair and they work fine using S1 app.I’d like to add a sub to beef up the bass. Would the new Mini Sub work with the gen1 Play5’s? The regular Sub looks a bit OTT but you can pick them up reasonably if that’s my only choice. I’d like the mini sub to help with upgrading the play 5’s if they fail and it also looks less intrusive in a smaller den. 

Hi I have a problem with my renters always use  my sonos. I’ve tried to tell them not to use it and all that but they never do. I can wake up in the middle of the night because they start to play the music. Why can’t we have a password protection on the sonos S2? This is a big problem because my renters need to have the same Wi-Fi, therefore they have the Wi-Fi password and can easily play on my sonos. On my other devices I can put a password on and they can’t use it. I see the parental option with the password but it says Sonos s2 is not compatible, why is that? 

I have Amps controlling my speakers in my yard. 3 of them to be exact. Fire pit, BBQ, and Porch. When I’m sitting around the fire or a little further out my Wi-Fi signal weakens and I have trouble controlling Sonos from my phone. The amps are close enough to Router and speakers are hardwired so that’s not the issue. It’s simply volume, music, zone, etc.  I cannot change them because my phone struggles on the Wi-Fi. Any thoughts, ideas, apps that connect directly to Sonos? 

My Sonos Beam started sputtering, then stopped working with my LG Oled altogether. I tried resetting the LG and the Sonos Beam several times. I called tech support for Sonos, then LG, then Sonos again.  Third time’s the charm. What we discovered, through the process of elimination, the problem was the Fire TV Cube. Not cutting it off after use led to a short circuit the whole eARC function. We disconnected the Fire TV Cube, then did a hard reset. We also did a hard reset on the LG and the Sonos, then everything worked perfectly.  For audio, on the Cube, I now use “Best sound Available” and not, “Dolby.”  My Sonos gives me Dolby for the Cube and everything is working properly. If your eARC goes out. Try resetting your Fire TV or Apple, then reset Sonos and TV. Everything should work.

Bonjour à tous ! Je possède un home cinéma Sonos (arc + sub + 2 One) et je voudrais brancher le tout sur une prise connectée pour pouvoir couper le courant durant mes absences et la nuit, histoire de faire des économies vue le conteste actuel.  Ma question est la suivante, y as t’il un risque d’abîmer mon matériel en coupant le courant quotidiennement ? Merci d’avance ?

I have been banging my head on this for quite a while now. I need to connect my Vinyl player to the Sonos Beam, which is also connected to the TV.I found this scheme on another thread  Beam ← HDMI/optical ← optical switch ← TV                                                                ← ADC ← preamp (if reqd) ← turntableThe thread is: I have an analog to digital converter that can take the player output into optical.I also have an optical switch, which I could use to switch between player optical output and TV optical output. The thing I haven’t considered from that shceme is how to connect optical SPDIF to the Beam HDMI. It tells “HDMI/optical” but I haven’t found any such adapter/converter.Any help understanding how to do it, or any other solution proposal would be highly appreciated.Thanks   

HiI am facing strange issue with DHCP. In my network i have two piholes running as DNS and DHCP server. All clients seems to be ok with this setup except sonos devices (arc, sub and 2 ikeas symfonisk)Devices simply refuses to accept offered ip address. Here is the example of communicationSep 28 23:04:53 dnsmasq-dhcp[957]: DHCPDISCOVER(eth0) 54:2a:1b:65:67:14 Sep 28 23:04:53 dnsmasq-dhcp[957]: DHCPOFFER(eth0) 192.168.2.31 54:2a:1b:65:67:14 Sep 28 23:04:53 dnsmasq-dhcp[957]: DHCPREQUEST(eth0) 192.168.2.31 54:2a:1b:65:67:14 Sep 28 23:04:53 dnsmasq-dhcp[957]: DHCPNAK(eth0) 192.168.2.31 54:2a:1b:65:67:14 wrong server-IDIf i disable one of those DHCP server everything works as expected.DHCP servers have the same static leases and of course dynamic ip ranges does not overlap.I think that for some reason sonos device doesnt expect to get 2 ip offers at the same time and replies with “wrong server-id”Can you please let me know if this is something that can be fixed.Thanks & RegardsMichal

Hi there was a post a few years ago about issues linking X14 and Sonos. There was a solution but it was noted on any of the relies.Can any one remember what the solution was as I’m having the same issues with the X14. X10 was never a problem but upgraded as X10 is at the end of its life.Thanks.

I have a SONOS system that has been working since 2017 with no major issues to report. I have three TP-LINK Manager Switches configured as follows:TP-LINK T2600-52TS - Primary SwitchSTP Turned ONSONOS STP Path Cost = 10Switch STP Path Cost =4CIST Priority = 4096Hello Time = 2 SecondsMax Age = 20 SecondsForward Delay = 15 SecondsTX Hold Count = 5 ppsMAX Hops = 20Wired SONOS Components = 7Wired Ethernet Switches = 3Xfinity XB7 Modem is connected to this switch.TP-LINK T2500-10TS - Remote Switch #1STP Turned ONSONOS STP Path Cost = 10Switch STP Path Cost =4CIST Priority = 8192Hello Time = 2 SecondsMax Age = 20 SecondsForward Delay = 15 SecondsTX Hold Count = 5 ppsMAX Hops = 20Wired SONOS Components = 2Wired Ethernet Switches = 1 (Back to Primary Switch)TP-LINK TL-SG3210 - Remote Switch #2STP Turned ONSONOS STP Path Cost = 10Switch STP Path Cost =4CIST Priority = 8192Hello Time = 2 SecondsMax Age = 20 SecondsForward Delay = 15 SecondsTX Hold Count = 5 ppsMAX Hops = 20Wired SONOS Components

Hi Everyone,  working with a friend of mine to find a solution for him. Currently he’s using a Denon Receiver with which have inputs of an Apple TV, Cable Box and DVD Player then a single output to the TV through HDMI.  Then when he wants to use the headphones he plugs the audio cable into the front of the receiver to push audio to the Headphones.  The Denon is beginning to have some audio issues so we’re coming up with another solution… Remove the Denon and the DVD player since it’s never used.  Apple TV and Cable Box run through separate HDMI to the TV with eARC from the Samsung TV out to the Sonos ARC.   The TV has an Optical out which we could run to the base of the Sennheiser RS175.   What would be the best way to hook this up?  He doesn’t want audio to come out of both ARC and Headphones, but have the option to choose one or the other. Thank you!

I got my karaoke setup to work well, but I don’t want to keep unplugging the input into the Beam whenever I’m switching between watching tv vs. singing karaoke.Regular TV Setup: SmartTv => Beam via HDMI eARCKaraoke setup: SmartTv => Mixer via HDMI eARC; Mixer => Beam via Optical&HDMI adapterIs there a way to keep these both set up simultaneously by using two switches to flip between the signals? For example:SmartTv=>switch=>Beam or Mixer… then I’d need another switch just before the Beam to flip between the SmartTV signal (that passes through first switch) or the Mixer signal.

Bit of confusion regarding SonosNet - I currently have several Sonos speakers and a Port connected via Ethernet for max stability and to minimize latency, and I have a few (two Sonos Ones and a Roam) that are showing up as WM:1 in About My System. I was under the impression that WM:1 means they’re in wireless mode (e.g. connected to my ASUS router, not SonosNet), but I also have read that as soon as you wire at least 1 speaker to Ethernet, SonosNet is created and all speakers (except possibly the Roam) should show WM:0 to indicate SonosNet is active. What gives? I don’t actually mind the speakers using the ASUS router’s wifi, but I have to finally give in and update the firmware to use some new AIMesh features and based on reading around the forum it seems like the newer firmware is still causing Sonos speakers to drop off the network. Thinking if I can get them on SonosNet instead that should avoid the issue. Thanks!

I’ve just installed BT full fibre with their Smart Hub 2 router, and initially, it could not connect to my Sonos Arc. (The sonos app could not see the network). I read all the suggestions online, that all seem to date from about a year ago, and nothing worked - I unplugged the digital voice adapter for the phone, I turned off 5 ghz, but it still didn’t work.I then switched the router to ‘mode 3’, and it connected fine, and is now working fine. Looking at BT’s advice, it seems that ‘mode 3’ means the router is working in ‘b/g and a’ mode, rather than ‘g/n and a/n/ac’, which is apparently better. I’m wondering what the differences are between these modes, and if, now that the Sonos has recognised and connected to the network, I can try switching it back to the better mode?