Advanced setups

I run the Sonos Controller in iOS on my “Data” subnet, and the Sonos Boost and speakers are on a “Sonos” subnet.  It mostly works, except for the initial discovery by the controller of the Boost and speakers.  I’m running a Unifi USG3 router and Unifi switches and APs.  I’ve set up the IGMP Proxy with the Data net upstream and the Sonos net and another “Devices” net as downstream.  The Boost is connected by Ethernet to a switch, and it’s the only Ethernet connection.  There is no firewall blocking from Data to Sonos or Devices.  I’ve set up all of the ports I think are needed from Sonos to Data.  When it is running, everything works smoothly.  If I let the controller run in the background on my iPhone, it comes right up when opened.  However, when I close the controller (swipe up on iPhone) and then try to open it again, it searches and can’t find the speakers.  Turning Wifi off and then on sometimes, but not usually, is enough that when I try to open it again, the controller can fi

I am disappointed, like many, with the recent incompatibility of my iTunes devices with my Sonos system.  I want to get back to being able to play music from my many carefully developed playlists to my (rather expensive) Sonos products. Knowing that all my current Sonos equipment is incompatible with AirPlay2, here’s my question: If I replace my 5-year-old Sonos Connect (that feeds a built-in, hard-wired home audio speaker system) with the new Port, will that Port also facilitate AirPlay2 connection to my existing wireless Play 1 and Playbar based groups? My current setup: “House” - Connect system supplies analog audio to an amplifier and three pairs of built-in speakers. “Family Room” - A Playbar, (2) Play 1 speakers, and a Sub set up as a group for surround sound and audio. “Master Bedroom” - A pair of Play 1 speakers in an upstairs bedroom as a separate speaker group. So, from the S

I’ve seen that there are similar threads here, including this one and another one.  Of course, there is enough of a variation that I need to bring up this topic all over again. I have a new house and, over 300’ away, is an old barn that was on the lot when we bought it.  The barn is now almost all renovated and being used as a recreation area and guest house.  Of course that’s far enough away that I need a 2nd wifi router.  Without going into details (and the people who don’t get simple things), I need to keep the house router and barn router with different SSIDs, but they have the same password. So here’s how the network is set up: In the house, I have

I’m trying to use my existing HTD MCA-66 12 channel amplifier with 6 zones to play music throughout my home. Ideally I would keep the main zone running through my denon receiver and the audio would be as is today. The challenge is getting the other zones to play a different source while the main source is still running in my living room. So, basically I want to watch and listen to what’s on in my living room and still be able to listen to music in other rooms that doesn’t have to be the same as what is playing in my living room. I purchased the sonos connect because I was told by my audio guy that this is what would be required in order to accomplish this. I have tried all options I can think of, and havwnt had any success to this point. any help / advice / guidance would be greatly appreciated.

I recently wired my home for in ceiling speakers that are being powered by Sonos.  Most go back to a home base where multiple amps reside, and some go to the rooms where they need to accept a line in input such as a cable box.  What would be the most efficient setup?  I prefer to use ethernet vs wireless whenever possible.   Location 1: Wired connection Main switch (which connects to all non sonos ethernet ports in the house as well) → Sonos Bridge → Sonnos Amp (new) → 6 Sonos Connect Amp ZP120 all daisy chained Location 2: Wired connection to Main Switch (same as above) → Sonos Amp (new) Location 3: Wired connection to Main switch (same as above) → Sonos Connect Amp ZP120 → Sonos Connect AMP ZP120 → Sonos Connect Amp ZP100 There are also 2 Play:1 and 1 Play:5 being used wireless in the house.     Should any of these be wired back to the switch instead of daisy chained? Do I get any benefit from having the Sono

I recently got a new Fire TV (Insignia NS-58DF620CA20) and uses the remote that came in the box (NS-RCFCA-19) My research has told me that the remote is an RF remote vs an IR remote.  I want to control my sonos with the remote, however I do not believe it is possible.  Any suggestions?

Hey all.  I have 3 Play 3s and a Sub.  All devices on my network are ‘supposed’ to get an IP via DHCP.  Everything complies with this except for one of my Sonos speakers.  I have it’s MAC assiged to grab a specific IP, but it ONLY uses an IP outside of the DHCP range, and no matter what I do it won’t revert to using the IP I want it to use.  Why would this be, and how can I force it to change IPs to the one I’ve got assigned.   For clarity all devices are on the same subnet and should be grabbing their IP from my local DHCP server.  I’ve even blocked the IP it’s using but it just won’t let go, even after unplugging it for awhile and rebooting both my wireless APs and my router.

I’ve read some similar topics on this forum but found nothing quite the same as my setup, which is as follows: Panasonic TV with 4 x HDMI 1.4 ports and a digital optical output. - HDMI inputs handle PCM only - HDMI2 is ARC and can output digital surround if, according to the manual, the receiver has “HDAVI Control 5” function. - TV has a Freeview HD tuner Panasonic blu-ray player with HDMI and optical out. This is connected to HDMI1 on the TV. Google Chromecast, connected to HDMI3 on the TV. Beam (with 2 x One SLs grouped for surround) connected to HDMI2 ARC on the TV. The issue is that all signals into HDMI on the TV are PCM only, so it’s outputting PCM to the Beam. What I need is a way to send the video from the blu-ray and Chromecast to the TV, but the audio to the Beam, to get the full benefits of Dolby Digital. But, I still need the TV audio to go to the Beam when watching TV channels. I’ve looked at a

I want to be able to connect my Sonos to my macbook pro (2018) to the bluetooth so I can use it for all sound, not just music or things that can airdrop. For instance I would like to be able to use it when listening to youtube video rather than my computer. Youtube video doesn’t have airdrop.  I’ve already gone to the bluetooth settings and tried to have it look for it, but it doesn’t even notice it’s there. Yes I pushed the button on the back of the sonos. I was able to do this with my moms HP computer and theoretically it should work on mine too, but it’s not working. It does work with my phone and the macbook app, but not the bluetooth.

hi,   I recently bought 2 ONE'S to pair them with my 2 play 5's (gen2)   I want to use those 4 speakers for my tv but i can't make the 2 ONE'S as back speakers. so my question is. is this possible?   thankyou in advance.

Attached is a picture of my network matrix. Every item is hardwired to network  with wireless disabled, except the playbar in bonus room has wireless enabled to talk to subwoofer. The playbar is also wired to network, since the subwoofer is wireless I enabled wireless on playbar. My thought was that the playbar would turn on sonosnet for just the subwoofer. The Matrix shows a lot of undefined items, I can’t seem to find what MAC addresses those belong to. I have submitted a diagnostics report if that helps, 764802476. I have ubiquiti unifi switches with STP enabled correctly, however this delays the time for getting IP addresses so i would like to turn that off if possible. With my current setup, I believe there will be no loops and therefore do not need STP correct? In summary, what’s undefined stuff and can I disable STP.  

I have 4 in-ceiling speakers that connect to an AMP.  AMP is located 1 floor down in garage in the “home run closet” (2-story home; 8 ft ceilings).  I’ve successfully connected a Sonos sub to work with these 4 speakers. Unfortunately, the sub connection cuts in-and-out.  When I spoke with support, they said the distance to the AMP was the problem.  I’ll assume that’s true.  In the same room, I have ethernet cables that run to that same home run closet.  Is it possible for me to connect the sub to the AMP via ethernet cable?  Would that solve the cutting in-and-out problem? Related, the port for the ethernet cable is on the opposite wall where the TV is, so the sub (if this works) would have to be on that same opposite wall.  Is that going to work from a sound perspective? Thanks in advance

How do i setup Sonos with Spotify for my family? I need to be able to switch Spotify user in sonos.  If I play Spotify on my mobile phone but my family want to play Spotify on our sonos ther is a conflict. We are using a Spotify family account.   

I use a verizon mobile hotspot to provide wireless internet in my office, for my ipad, macbook, etc. There is no router, so will I be able to hook up the speakers. I'd like to know before committing to a purchase. I have 2 small rooms I need speakers for.

Hello I am having a party and I need to use sonos. how do i use DJ Software and sonos controller? 

Hi All, As the title says I have my Sennheiser HDR 175 Headphones in a “group” with my PlayBar + Play:3 (L+R) + Sub and connected to my SONOS via CONNECT (through the Optical output). The issue I have is the headphone audio fading in / out every few minutes. This happens across all audio inputs i.e. TV, BluRay, Netflix, content streamed through web browser etc. I have tried all three Surround settings on the HDR’s (off, low and high) but with no success. Anyone have any ideas what the issue could be? Many thanks,

Helo,I just got a new LG 82UM80 with new sonos play bar and surround speakers. Trying to figure out best option for running 5.1 from nvidia sheild pro. TV gives me options for bitstream and pcm. Also has Dolby atmos grayed out but it shows enabled. Getting surround when I run YouTube dolby 5.1 tests.Again just trying to find the best option. Manuals and internet not really giving clear options on best set up.Thank you. 

I have 4 SONANCE MARINER 64’s I would like to use with a SONOS AMP. They are rated at 8ohm nominal ;6ohm minimum , 5watt min. 80watt max. If wired in parallel the impedance is 3.6 ohms & too much power for the speakers. If I use series parallel will there be enough power to drive the speakers to party level & will it have any negative effect on the amp ?

Hey community, Trying to find a way to hook up a vintage 1974 Marantz model 2270 amp to Sonos. Any suggestions? I’m struggling. thanks in advance!   heres the back of the receiver   

I think I have a situation that warrants using mixed mode, but I want to get some thoughts from others. Ignore the products in my profile, this is a setup that I hooked up for someone else. The Sonos products in use are (4) Play:3, (2) Play:1, and an Amp.  All of the Play speakers are wireless and the Amp is wired to an Ethernet switch in a rack in the basement. Initially, I used Boost mode and things worked fine.  Most of the speakers were connecting through the speaker nearest the Amp, instead of directly to the Amp, due to the Amp’s poor signal quality inside of a metal rack.  This shouldn’t matter though, that’s just the mesh doing its job. There is excellent WiFi coverage with access points throughout the house, so I decided to try mixed mode.  I set all of the access points to the same channel, as recommended by Sonos.  I then added the wireless network and then disabled the WiFi on the Amp to force mixed mode.  This also seems to work fine.

I have Sonos speakers throughout my house. I also have a separate turntable listening setup. The best thing about vinyl listening is keeping the analog signal from start to finish, as to be entirely uncompressed by any digitizing etc.   I’m interested in adding a Connect or Port to my turntable setup. It would have to be:   turntable → port → analog speakers   The port would obviously bring the music from my records to the various Sonos speakers throughout the house. But I want to make sure my nice dedicated analog speakers are still getting the full, uncompressed, analog signal from the turntable.   Is this the case? My hope is that the Port/Connect would digitize(compress) the signal to distribute throughout the house, but the signal passing thru to its RCA outputs remains uncompressed.   If I introduce a Connect or Port between the turntable and dedicated speakers, will these speakers be receiving a compressed

just Bought a new Sony Bravia KD-55XG8796 with a RMF-TX550E remote I have it connected to my SONOS Playbase but cant pair the remote with it - I can control the volume with the iphone app but thats a pain, has any one any ideas??

I am trying to setup 2 Sonos subs in 1 room already setup up as 5 to 1. The 3rd sub will connect to a “Butt Kicker” amp that usually connects to a preamps sub out. Is there some way of using the new Sonos amp(s) to accomplish this? The system consists of playbar, 2 Sonos 1’s, 2 x Sonos subs and 1 Sonos amp (just bought it). I only want the playbar to connect directly to the tv.

It’s been a while since I’ve posted about this topic. A few years ago, I was active in a number of topics asking that Sonos bring IPv6 support to their devices. I believe it was another capability that forced their hand, most likely Airplay 2 (because Apple has a big thing about IPv6), to add IPv6 support. And all is great with that… except that I can’t play content via IPv6. Sonos needs to now update the mechanism in their speakers that actually receives and plays the audio content so that it is able to connect to services and servers using this great new protocol that’s only been active around the internet for over 13 years now.   Why now? Because yet another regional internet registry - RIPE, the registry that handles Europe - has fully depleted their IPv4 address pool. They join APNIC (Asia-Pacific), ARIN (North America), and LACNIC (Latin America) which have all also exhausted their IPv4 address pools and can only provide additional allocations based on unused add

Two Gen 1 Play 5’s in stereo.  I’m having some drop outs due to network issues at the moment. Before I buy the cabling would the following work to remove them entirely from needing to do anything wirelessly?   Ethernet cable from router to one of the speakers then ethernet cable from that speaker to the other. Thanks for your help.