Discuss Arc, Beam, Playbar, Playbase, and the entire Sonos home theater experience. How do you set up a Sonos 5.1 system? Which Sonos work with your TV? Ask your home theater questions here.
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I recently upgraded my old Playbar to a Sonos Arc. I encountered a few problems along the way setting up, but after hours of searching and browsing threads I think I have a decent understanding of what my issues where and the various options I have. I’ll give a little summary and then I have some questions in Bold toward the end. Here is my setup.Samsung TU800: eArc mode: Auto Digitial output: Pass-Through Dolby Atmos compatibiltiy: onXbox:HDMI plugged into HDMI 1 on TV Speaker Audio: Dolby Atmos Allow Passthough (for Xbox Apps) on Blu-ray: Let my receiver decode audo on (like above but for Blu rays)Sonos Arc: Plugged into the eArc HDMI port on TV At first I didn’t have the TV set to Pass-through it was on Auto, but everything else was the same. This led to a problem where the audio would occasionally drop out when playing a UHD with an Atmos track. Often after it came back it would sound worse, then drop out again. Curious to what was happening here, but when I switched to
I have a sonos beam, 2 ikea symfonisk, a HomePod and sonos roam. I am trying to figure out the best placement for these speakers in our awkward living room that doesn't allow us to sit directly in front of the TV. Any time I try to put furniture in front it feels out of place because it's in the middle of the room blocking the flow. We are typically sitting on the larger couch to watch tv. What would you do if this was what you were working with and keep in mind needing to keep the wife happy.
A comment regarding Sonos’ product lineup.Why bother with a Sonos Arc if my new Sony 85 inch speakers are wider apart?Please, Sonos, come on board with side speakers!What is there not to like? enabling an extra pair will sell more speakers and encourage folks like me to stay on brand, rather than start from scratch, potentially with a different brand.
I have purchased a Sonos Ray and connected via optical cable to a LG 55 Web OS TV with Magic Remote. Now, everything has appeared to be connected correctly along with Sonos 2 app on my Oppo Android phone. I believe I have tried all settings on the TV and the Sonos app, however, the sound is much less in quality than what the TV produces. Yes, more Bass but quite burring. Voice has like a added burr at the end of each word. Tried more and less Bass and Treble but that does not work. Night Sound and Voice Enhancement on Sonos does also not work. On the TV, I have changed all of the sound settings to no avail. I previously used a Yamaha Soundbar which I now think was a better proposition due to far less sound distortion. Where do I go from here?
After a year of trying to figure out why I would have 1 or so seconds of complete sound drop when watching atmos content every 10-25 minutes, I found a thread that fixed it. Setup is a Samsung Q80, Apple TV 4K, Sonos Arc/Sub/Ones. In the Apple TV 4K, turning off match frame rate made the sound drops go away. From what I read, when/if the frame rate reconciles the sound drops. Hopefully this helps others as it took finding the right thread to fix it a year later! Good luck all!
I bought my Beam when it was first released. It worked beautifully until about 6 months ago. Now voices are low and difficult to hear. I turn the volume way up to hear the voice during a movie or show. However, during a music segment it blasts me. I can’t watch tv like this. I did re-tune TruePlay and Speech Enhancement is turned on. In fact, toggling Speech Enhancement makes no difference. Any ideas? Can a Beam be repaired?
Ive been having issues with my Sonos ARC and i can only get sound stable when I turn off the earc option on my LGCX. Which was then outputting sound at 5.1 where available. NOW however it is outputting Dolby Atmos tho i still have earc disabled on my settings. WTF is going?
I currently have the Beam + 2 Ikea Symfonisk bookshelves speakers. The Beam placed in front and the two Symfonisk in the back. However, I’m interested in more sound in the front as not everything I watch onTV is with proper surround sound and then the Beam is a little «weak» sounding all alone. So I was thinking adding two Symfonisk in front as they are cheap and produce good enough sound for this use. Would this work? Beam + 2x Symfonisk taking care of the sounds in front and supporting the Beam in stereo broadcasts and 2x Symfonisk in the back as the rear surround speakers? Thanx in advance for any reply and help!
So I just set up the Sonos Arc soundbar that supports eARC. It works with my 2020 65" Frame TV until I change the eARC setting on the Frame TV to Auto. The sound mutes and I can't get it to play until I turn eARC off. Anyone else have this issue? I’ve messed around with this for a few hours to no avail.
I have an LG UN9000 tv with a Panasonic UB150 4k player and the Beam (Gen 2). Lately I’ve been noticing that when playing a 4k disc w/Dolby Atmos sound, at certain points of the movie the sound will cut out for a second or two before picking back up. It seems to happen when a loud piece of action happens in the movie. For instance, I was watching “War of the Worlds” the other night and when the first tripod comes out of the ground and crushes the car that Tom Cruise is hiding behind, the sound cuts out completely and the blu ray player resets. It only seems to happen during Atmos playback and I’ve tried a firmware update on the player to no avail. Has anyone had a similar issue? I’d love to fix this as it’s incredibly annoying as I try to enjoy Atmos audio. Thanks in advance for anything to help!
Hi,Everything works fine until I connect Mibox streamer to one of other HDMI ports. When I turn off and on the TV, after a few seconds, tv switches to internal speakers. I need to change the output to HDMI manualy or disconnect the Mibox. Beam connected to HDMI 2HDMI-eARC enabled Pass throughCEC enabledTried to switch Quick start + on and off. Didn't help. Any suggestions? Thank you
Just tried to use a LG TV remote with the Sonos Amp (Nothing connected to HDMI port). It recognises the volume control and I am able to control volume but doesn’t seem able to mute, play/pause or skip tracks all of which would be really useful to be able to do with the remote. Am I doing something wrong or is this just nor supported using IR?
I have a Sonos Roam that is Bluetooth linked to an Amazon firestick for movies outside in my backyard. The firestick is connected to a projector. I grouped my Sonos moves as a stereo pair in the front and a sub and two play 1’s in the back for a more immersive sound. It sounded awesome with no audio latency lag. I'm wondering if I have a beam, sub, and two play 1’s if that is transferable to play audio in a 5.1 set up outside being grouped to the roams Bluetooth or if the Bluetooth portion limits that capability. I've heard of connecting an Apple TV outside to it through all Wi-Fi but i also don't know if the beam isn't connected directly into a tv if it can send out a 5.1 sound over Wi-Fi. Anyone have any insights on these two possible set ups? Thanks in advance, Brian
Got a good deal on a new Playbase for the master bedroom. I exclusively use a Firestick which uses a Bluetooth remote. Since the Playbase is IR controlled and has no HDMI ARC I need a solution for controlling the Firestick and Playbase with one remote. Was curious what you all have found to work best? So far I kind of like this option..,Sideclick Remotes SC2-FT16K Universal Remote Attachment for Amazon Fire TV Streaming Player https://a.co/d/fR9KOVr
I am using TV Autoplay (Line in) from my laptop to my Sonos Ray. This works great for PC music, video calls, etc.. When I connect to the same Ray over Airplay, this also works great. The problem is that when I go back to my laptop, nothing plays on the Ray until I open the Sonos App and retoggle TV Autoplay off and back on. Then audio from my laptop works again. However, I don’t want to have to access the Sonos app to toggle autoplay everytime I use Airplay. I might as well avoid Airplay. How do I get Autoplay to work after having used Airplay?
I had the arc with surrounds and sub before the infamous drop outs problem. I eventually gave up whilst I had an opportunity to return it, mainly down to the lack of information from Sonos. I have now moved on to the new Samsung Q990, which is fantastic, apart from, the rear and sub drop outs. I swear I am cursed with soundbars. The difference with the Samsung is that it briefly stops but 2 seconds later comes back, but It’s not right. So, is it safe to come back to Sonos? I loved the sound from it when I had it. Cheers ps, if I did, is it worth getting fives for surround as this Samsung is a lot better at surround than the arc.
I’m building a new home and I have the opportunity to run with one of two options. The room is fairly large with priority on home theatre, but to also play music in games room behind. I’m looking for feedback on sound quality and ease of use. Latency issues drive me mad btw!OP1: Arc in front, Sonos amp + ceiling rears, Sonos subOP2: TV connected to one amp driving in-wall speakers on the sides of the TV, and a second amp driving ceiling rears, Sonos subI am hoping to be able to simply turn on Sony TV and go (with full surround sound) without turning on other devices and messing with surround settings. Also, to use iOS to play music in the room with a stereo channel (ceiling speakers are used as L/R and not surround channel).Thank you!
Anyone else experiencing the same issue? Multichannel PCM 5.1 blanks out for a second every 1-2 minutes. I don’t think it’s a bandwidth issue as it works flawlessly with Multichannel PCM 7.1 (thorough test) and Dolby TrueHD Atmos (quick test). And it may have been caused by the Sonos 14.10 update. Setup is PS5→ LG C1→ Beam 2 (via earc). 2 weeks ago before the 14.10 update, I watched a bluray film wherein I had my PS5 transcode the DTS-HD MA 5.1 audio to Multichannel PCM 5.1 (as the C1 does not support DTS) and had no issues. Earlier today, I played a bluray film for the first time in 2 weeks and I encountered consistent audio dropouts every 1-2 minutes. It had the same setup where DTS-HD MA 5.1 → Multichannel PCM 5.1. I tested other bluray discs including the one I watched 2 weeks ago and they all now have the same issue. Curiously, I’ve been gaming heavily on my PS5 the past two 2 weeks and haven’t had any audio issues. Then I realized that I’ve been using Multichannel PCM 7.1 when ga
Hi!I have a Sonos Home Theatre with an Arc, a Sub and two One SLs.I am very satisfied with the system, yet, after about one month of daily usage, I begin notice there are a couple of features missing, that would highly benefit users.First one, is an OSD volume level. I’ve read at least one other thread with this request, and some users replied that it is a TV feature, but in fact it’s not. Depending on HDMI-CEC implementation, TV might show just an indicator if you’re increasing or decreasing volume, but I haven’t seen yet any TV showing a real volume indicator. To get that info, it has to be generate by the Sonos Arc (in my case). This is possible, using HDMI-CEC to send this info to the TV. In some cases, like mine, I use an Harmony remote that controls volume directly in the Arc, not passing though TV, and in this kind of cases there is no indicator at all (not even if I’m increasing or decreasing volume). Second feature request is the ability to schedule Night Mode and Speech Enha
Hello, For two weeks now I am the proud owner of a Samsung Q95T TVWhen I installed the Sonos playbar to work with the Samsung One remote I followed the following instructions → https://support.sonos.com/s/article/3444?language=en_USThis worked like a charm. However suddenly today the One remote no longer communicated with the Playbar, no matter what I tried (followed the instructions again , did a hard reset of my playbar etc. ) nothing worked. After browsing through the community I found a workaround (Select Samsung as home cinema brand). I am nit-picking here but what I do not like is when I now press volume up/down it says Samsung instead of Sonos and of course I can perfectly live with itBut I just want to know Why do I need to select Samsung as brand to get my Sonos to work. ? --------- Workaround ----------Instructions on Samsung TV:Go to Settings -> Universal Remote -> New DeviceSelect Device Type: Home Theatre SystemSelect Brand: Samsung (instead of Sonos)Select Home Cin
Dear all, just a quick suggestion: wouldn’t it be possible to use roam or move speakers as surround spekers for 5.1 systems? Taht would give even greater flexibility and eliminate the need to find a plug in the right location. Usually, you don’t see a picture or a 5.1 program longer than the 10 hours of autonomy of those products, and the design would become cleaner without any wire! Is there any technical questio that prevents this? Are you planning to solve it out at some point?
My conversation with Samsung: Me: Does my old 2021 65” Frame TV Model number: QE65LS03AAUXXU Serial number: 0H6V3HAR500017T - support Dolby Atmos? Samsung: Upon further checking, the model you have can only support Dolby Digital where it argues that its codecs are more efficient than DTS codecs, and thus can sound every bit as good or better, even at a lower bit-rate. Ultimately, you can expect a fine home cinema experience from both, and often your choice of soundtrack will come down to whichever is supported by your source material. Me: Does the new 2022 65” Frame support Dolby Atmos? Samsung: Thank you for staying connected, Graeme. Upon further checking directly from our website, our 2022 Frame TV's support Dolby Atmos. You can check this link: [link removed] Me: If you search the above Dolby Atmos is emblazoned everywhere!!! But look at last years Samsung advertDolby Atmos is nowhere to be seen unfortunately.Moderator Note: Modified in accordance with the Community Code of Conduct
After upgrading to release 14.6, I’ve noticed that the SUB frequently gets out of sync (lags) relative to the ARC. When this happens the SUB can sound like reverb - it really degrades the sound experience quite a bit. Removing the SUB and then adding it back in does not seem to remedy the problem -- the only thing I have found that clears this state is power cycling the ARC.
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