Advanced setups

Long time since I was on here….Just reporting in that I caved in and bought the Asus AIMesh CT8 WiFi system last week.  Our house is a largeish 3-4 storey Georgian house with a lot of thick stone walls and I was getting flaky WiFi coverage through the house, lots of dead spots, and Sonos was driving me mad - in particular constantly getting the “Unable to connect to Sonos” message on my Android phone.So the end result is that the Asus AIMesh CT8 system (I have two boxes, one the router, wired to the Netgear DM200 modem) the other a “node” using 5GHz backhaul to the router works very well and plays very nicely with Sonos.WiFi coverage throughout the house (~400 sq m) is amazingly good.Sonos works perfecty although for some reason I had great trouble getting one Connect:Amp reconnected - had to factory reset several times and add - eventually it worked.I have not yet seen the dreaded “unable to connect” message - turning on BBC Radio 4 first thing in the morning just works (previously, i

Quick description. 5 x Play-1 speakers and a connect. 3 Asus RT-AC68U routers in AI Mesh router configuration.  AI mesh is connected to a Virgin Stupid hub in modem mode and the mesh is through the 5Ghz wifi.  The mesh’s 2.4ghz is fixed on channel 11 and the SonosNet set to channel 6. (the quietest according to my Inssider app)  Hallway - connected to main router.  All others on SonosNet apart from Shed which is at the extreme range and sometimes flips to the closest AI router or I can plug it in to the router.  It has always been a bit flaky, and I’ve tried a load of different things like plugging one into each node, moving speakers, channel setting, static IP addresses for the speakers, etc. Submitted a diagnostic a couple of months ago and was walked through a few things and everything settled down for about 6 weeks, then became a bit flaky again.  However, a couple of weeks ago ASUS and Sonos both had updates around the same time. After updating I have a new problem.  When the phon

I have a boost, playbar, sub & 3 play 1’s.   All Sonos products are grouped and I can adjust group volume with app only.  I am using a Samsung TV remote (IR) and it will only adjust the volume of the Playbar.  How can I adjust the group volume?  Thanks,

Is it possible to set up the system to automatically play some music or radio station when Sonos starts?  I have set to play automatically as part of my security system. But if the queue is empty, nothing will play.  Thanks

What a big deception. Waiting forever on new software. After installing S2 to find out it still DOES NOT not play High Resolution audio files. Well back to Audirvana + USB + my own amp for High Res.    

Help!!!I am trying to run multiple zones off of one amp using a connecting block to keep wiring tidy and impedance volume controllers on each zone. I do understand that my wattage per speaker will be low, but I wanted to try it to see how loud they would be, then would look at buying a second amp if necessary... I dont really need to be able to play multiple things in different areas, and all of these speakers/impedance matching volume controllers etc are already wired in the house.I have:1x sonos amp1x Russound connecting block (essentially a splitter)-one wire from connecting block to amp-I have 6 zones (2 speakers per zone) on the connecting block6x Russound ALT 2x impedance matching volume controls: 126w peak, 42w RMS. Allowable impedance multipliers of 1x, 2x, 4x, 8x for each speaker-two speakers connected to each volume control (L and R speaker)12x Russound RSF 610: 5-80w 8ohmsI have tried a setup with 5.3ohms (6 zones, 4x impedance multiplier per zone) and 10.6ohms (6 zones, 8x

My home theater has a projector screen that comes out of the ceiling in the center of the room. There is no wall behind the screen. To date I have a sonos base on a bar cart that I can roll out if needed, but this isn’t working out well for me.I’m looking to mount a center channel on the ceiling directly in front of where the projector comes down. The back of the arc ould be against a dead zone on the screen. (1) Positionally, will the sound quality work with this sort of placement? The arc would likely be upside down.(2) Will the speakers positioning cause noticeable vibration on the projector screen? It is weighted, but a strong breeze would move it.(3) Will the mount kit work with a ceiling? Is there a better alternative solution?

  Hello! I currently have a 5.1 setup with Playbar, 2x Sonos One and the subwoofer. I also have 2x Sonos One in the dining room, and another Sonos One in the bathroom. In regards to the 5.1 setup I am quite pleased with the audio performance for movies, considering the quite low price and the small size. However, when it comes to music listening experience in the living room, I find the Playbar lacking a lot. It just doesn’t do very well at normal stereo music listening. So with that said, I was looking into replacing my Playbar with a Sonos Amp and 2 front speakers of my own choice. I have heard the Sonos Amp in a 2.1 setup, and it sounds amazing. At my retailer, I learn that the Sonos Amp does not support running 4.1 as a front amplifier with 2x Sonos One as back speakers. This totally confused me. Why on earth would Sonos not give the Sonos Amp the same software capabilities as the Playbar, Playbase and Beam? It is just a matter of down mixing the center channel into the left and ri

Just wanted to share my experience with setting up my Sonos Play 5 with an Aruba WiFi controller. After many hours of tcpdump'ing and connecting the Sonos to wired networks (with everything working perfectly!), I found that by default, Aruba WiFi controllers (mine is a 225 running version 6.4.4.8-4.2.4.4_57496) drop broadcast & multicast traffic between attached wireless clients, which is used by the Sonos Controller app to find the Sonos. There is a setting in the Virtual Controller under "Networks" (usually the name of the SSID you've created), WLAN Settings (click "Show Advanced options"), then "Broadcast Filtering". Mine was set to "All", and a quick change to "Disabled" + reboot, the app now found the Sonos with ease. Hope this helps someone not spend 4 hours on their Christmas morning trying to debug their brand new Sonos Play 5 ;-) Steve

Have read that inserting the IP of one component into this url would pull up the Sonos network matrix:http://xxx.xxx.xx.xxx:1400/support/reviewMy interest in the network matrix is to inspect for interference and/or optimize the connection in the Sonos network.All the IP addresses of my components have the format: 10.x.x.xx.   I see the IP addresses in the Netgear Orbi AX6000 app that displays the components hardwired to router.  In my Sonos system, a Bridge is hardwire connected to the router.   Router is a ISP-supplied glass fiber modem + router.Question:  How can I generate the network matrix without the public IP addresses like 192. or 168. etc?Appreciate the advice!

The manual states “Two pairs of 8 ohm speakers wired in parallel are also supported.” Does anyone know if you can run more than 2 pairs in parallel?   I would like to run 3 or 4 pairs off the amp but want to know if the amp is stable at that ohm load?

I have 12 Sonos speakers around my home. Four are hardwired, eight others are wireless. I also have a Boost.I have no problems with Wifi coverage in my home.So the question is: Am I improving or degrading my overall wireless situation with the Boost in place? There doesn’t seem to be any difference whether I use it or not. With the Boost in place, does that mean some of my Sonos devices will connect to the Boost instead of my home Wifi? Does the Boost use the same wireless spectrum as Wifi? If I remove the Boost, does that mean I’ll have more wireless usage on my regular Wifi network?Its not clear to me how the Boost actually works compared to regular 802.11 Wifi. If it were standard Wifi, my Network Analysis software would pick it up, but it doesn’t. Thoughts?

Recently moved to a new home and have Xfinity XB7 Xfi - Previous system was the Sonos 1 Controller and had lots of issues….  my bridge, Play1, Play3, and Play5 all worked for ONE DAY !    The next day I could not see any of the Sonos speakers in the app. After rebooting the router, they all came back but would disappear daily !!!   I could not keep rebooting the router every day just to listen to music….. thats just stupid. After calling support, they had me remove the bridge as it was no longer needed. (It had been over 2 years since my system had been set up and working on an ATT router…..which BTW I NEVER had any problems with. Unfortunately ATT fiber is not available in this area yet, and their internet speeds available in this area are slow so I was forced to go with Xfinity.)  After hardwiring each of the speakers to my router and then placing them in the rooms I wanted them, the Sonos controller could see all 3 speakers, play different music on each at the same time, group them

Morning all, I currently have 8 Sonos Speakers, all hard wired with Ethernet. Is it possible in this situation to turn off Sonosnet, to prevent the signal interfering with my Wi-Fi network?

I have split my IoT Devices and Office Devices into two different VLANs. With now named Sonos S1 App, everything was running smooth and fine. Now, I had to make the update to Sonos S2 (the S1 app refused to connect to my Sonos devices!). After the App Update, I'm not able to control my sonos devices anymore.  Does anyone know if SONOS is now needing even more High-Ports on UDP from the App to the speakers or which parameters changed?  @Sonos : It's a mad thing what is going on here. Many users are requesting more support for setups with different VLAN which are becomming more and more important also in private LANs. No right answer came at any point besides the system is not intended of this usage… Than the topic with bricking old hardware. Now you will not go for this step, but still pushing the customers for updates which will break existing setups and not one word in the changelog. I'm somewhat disappointed on this behavioral. 

I have an office and home that are configured with unique house codes (Sonos ID), both configured as “Sonos Net” wireless, not WiFi (using Boost). With my Move I have it configured for my home Sonos system, so when I take it to my office, I cannot access it via Sonos app unless I factory reset the Move and then join it to the office Sonos system. I am aware that with WiFi direct setups, the Move can store multiple WiFi network credentials. (Ex. Taking the Move to your friends house temporarily). Can the Move also be linked/store multiple house codes / Sonos ID’s to streamline my situation and support being taken between multiple Sonos Net households?

I am asking on behalf of my Grandfather who got a Sonos Beam and Sonos One speaker for his new condo. My grandmother has hearing issues so the intention was to try to mirror the output from the beam speaker (mixed to mono I guess) to the Sonos One speaker next to her chair, this would help her personally hear without having to turn up the main sound too much for everyone else in the room. It seems that this is not possible based on the settings I looked though. If I try to set it up as a satellite speaker it requires two speakers and then would be set up to play the surround sounds rather than the center channel (which would be more useful). I then tried to group the speakers together but the S2 app said I have to have 3 rooms set up just to create a group. I don’t remember this restriction when I set up my parents system and so I am very confused why I cannot just have my two speakers play the same sounds. Is there a way to set up this mirroring situation as I described?

Hello.  I’ve got an issue with Move - If I commence playback when all players are grouped together, it will not playback on my Move, but will play on all non Move speakers in the group If I commence playback on the Move, and then add all other players to that group, then all will play the source music as normal The non Move players (three of them) are all on a Sonosnet Boost wired connection.  The Move is on 2G wi-fi (not using an extender) Anyone else having this issue, and an/or any suggestions for a remedy? Matt

Hi, I’m a big Sonos fan and have invested quite a bit over the past few years. I just purchased by 14th Sonos speaker, a Move, to join my existing setup consisting of various: Play:1, Sonos One, Play:3, Beam and Connect:AMP (gen 2) devices. All of my existing devices were running on Sonosnet, firstly with a Sonos BOOST, but more recently with the Beam being wired and the root of the Sonosnet. That change (removing the BOOST) was just to simplify as I really didn’t need it.   I tried moving everything onto WiFi a few weeks ago, but it was terrible. Speakers kept dropping out, changes to songs (like skipping forward) or volume changes were laggy, the app UI kept restarting, then stopped showing me all my speakers (even ones that were playing) and took minutes to update them back into the app. It was terrible. I put this down to having a 4-node “mesh” WiFi system. I have a wired backhaul on those APs, so not strictly “mesh”, but they do support steering, 802.11v, etc. to optimise the Wi

I was thinking of replacing my AMP with the Sonos AMP to get access to all the easy streaming.  My setup so far is an iPad used for stream via AUX cable to the current AMP, the TV connected and a turntable.  As the AMP covers all of this the only thing left is the EQ.  Shouldn’t it be possible to just “manually” set the digital EQ of the Sonos AMP to a level that the Bose would sound like if played through their own EQ? If so does anyone have experience with this?  I have no Idea how to actually KNOW when my settings “sound right”. Is there some method to this that I can follow? Just using my ears might heavily depend on the song i currently listen to. Maybe that’s also an Idea, some suggestions which songs i should check out (due to high pitches, deep basses, ...)  I know using the active EQ from the Bose Series 2 is not possible (except if i just use it for the turntable^^)  I’Ve also got a Magnat Quantum Sub that i plan to connect via wire, I do not think this matters here but just

I want to connect my playbar to my new Samsung TV. The TV has optical (1) and hdmi arc (1) outputs. My hearing aid also needs an optical connection for Bluetooth. Have tried an optical splitter, which allows both the hearing aid and playbar to work, but this has caused the tv remote to no longer control the playbar sound. Is there an adapter that will allow the playbar optical to connect to the TV hdmi arc?

I've got a new Sonos Arc 5.1.2 setup, with the arc connected to an LG CX tv via the eArc hdmi (tv set to passthrough). So far it's been working well - the built in apps do 5.1 and Atmos and my ps4 gets 5.1 as I had expected. (and I'm looking forward to the Sonos Arc update to get more than stereo out of the Nintendo Switch). My problem is with being unable to get my Windows 10 laptop to recognise that I have a 5.1 setup (let alone Atmos). I'm hoping this is a solvable problem - if the old ps4 can figure it out, surely I should be able to get the pc to as well (even if it requires a bit of tinkering)?  The laptop is running an nvidia 1070 - also attached via hdmi to the tv. Sound driver is Nvidia HD Audio. Latest updates and drivers. Currently windows sound settings is reporting only stereo speakers. 5.1 appears disabled in the list and cannot be selected. I installed Dolby Access to get Dolby Atmos for Home Theater but that did not work (i suspect I need to resolve the 5.1 issue and

I HAVE reset the system removed old product's and sold the two items.  Now the new owner cannot connect because it says ownership is not transferred????  Does anyone have ideas??  Clearly the boffins who designed this system do not!

Hi I have a setup where I use a HDMI receiver for all video input and pass through to speakers (wired) and projector (HDMI).    I recently purchased an ARC and want to replace my speakers with that as output.    To do this I would need to split the out HDMI from the receiver to send video to the projector and audio to the ARC.    What are my options. Needless to say I would want to retain full HDMI capabilities for the audio. 

I purchased a play 5 for part. Turns out it’s recycled but the speakers work just fine. I understand the need to brick the software component of the speaker but is there any reason this can’t be used as a plain old “dumb speaker?” Seems like a total waste to make the speaker completely non functional.