Advanced setups

Hi, Recently, I bought a Sonos 5.1 system (Beam, Sub, 2 one SL) and I did the Trueplay. These days, I realized that the Sub has a low crossover configuration by default, like 80 Hz. My problem is that, to hear the subkick of a song, I need to turn up the volume of the sub to - 3 approximately, and then, when I'm watching to a film, I feel a huge difference of volumes between the dialogues and the bass effects. So, my question is if there is some option available in Sonos to be able to change the crossover of my Sub to 100 Hz. I suppose there is some one because the Sub is an active subwoofer… Thank you. 

I’m not sure if the problem is from a Sonos or Ubiquiti update but when I first setup my large 27 speaker Sonos system last August everything worked good. Recently I noticed that I could not group certain speakers together and I could not create a stereo pair no matter how hard I tried. The speakers would work individually fine while the grouping functions between certain speakers would fail consistently. From long wisdom in working with large Sonos environments (I have two) I learned that in order to get the best performance and reliability I would make sure there was always at least one wired Sonos speaker in close range to every Sonos wireless only speaker to make SonosNet work best. In the end I had six Ethernet wired speakers doing this job. To accomplish this I had one wired speaker right where my main internet switch was located. I then utilized Actiontec MoCa adapters via existing coax cable to connect two more wired speakers and I also utilized the 5GHZ wireless uplink feature

I recently purchased two IKEA Sonos Symfonisk products (lamp+shelf), I’m hoping to make them work as a stereo pair (L/R), unfortunately after following all advice and guidance of ikea and sonos in order to pair them together, I’m still unable to do so each time getting the error message: Stereo pairing unavailable You need to have 2 compatible products set up to create a stereo pair. any suggestions to solve this?

Just bought a new SONOS Move. Right now, I cannot decide if this was a really stupid move (get it), on my part, the answer to my question will answer this for me. I have multiple SONOS products, sporting a total of 14 units. And now a Move. But connecting it to my existing system is not a process I get or agree with. Seems to me, that the ONLY way, I’ll ever get this Move to function, is to provide the unit my wifi credentials . Can this really be true? I mean, when the other 13 units clearly function together, and a easily connect without providing any wifi credentials. Everything else is connected via cable through a ZP90, and I intend to keep it this way. Is there any way, that I can possibly connect this Move to my existing system without providing my wifi credentials to the unit? Maybe create a temp guest network and then disable that to include the Move to the SONOS wifi instead?

Two diagnostics: 964042010 and 681347379 2x Airport Extremes in Bridge mode connected via Ethernet. Living Room: 2x paired Play:3 (one Hardwired, one WiFi) Bedroom: 1x Play:1 (WiFi) Kitchen: SonosOne (Hardwired) Office: Play:1 (WiFi) These all keep cutting in and out - even the hardwired ones! Any ideas?

Hi all! I’ve got a decent sized Sonos setup and have two problems I’m trying to solve: 1) The bridge being EOL’d and whether or not I still need them and 2) The fact that when I tried to connect a Connect:AMP via ethernet, I had something happen on my network (traffic storm, loops, etc) that crippled it.   My network is Unifi gear, a router (USG) connected to a 24 port managed switch running to network drops throughout the house, and two 802.11AC wireless access points connected to that switch, one upstairs and one downstairs. In my home theater shelf area I’ve got a 5 port unmanaged gigabit switch because there’s only one ethernet drop there. Right now the Sonos devices and how they’re connected: Upstairs Bridge - Connected directly to the switch. Upstairs Playbar - Wirelessly connected, could be hard-wired if I added another 5 port switch there, there are 3 devices (roku tv, xbox one, and playbar) but only 2 ethernet drops. Downstairs Bridge - In my office closet. Office Connect - Wi

I’m looking for some of those brave souls that have run the gauntlet and moved their Sonos devices to a dedicated subnet ... In preparing to move’ my Sonos devices to a dedicated subnet, I’ve read everything (!) I can find on the topic. I’m happy to report I understand nearly all the networking vernacular, AND I’m happy to report my firewall seems up to the task. The trickiest bit I’ve read about is handling the discovery process, well described here: https://felix-kling.de/blog/2019/sonos-dedicated-vlan.html As noted, my firewall can handle the 239.255.255.250 multicast forwarding. Yay! Before pulling the trigger on the ‘move’ and the subsequent beating my head against a wall, I did a bit of packet capture on my existing/normal/everything-on-the-same-subnet setup. The results of packet capture surprised me, inasmuch as there seems to be ZERO 239.255.255.250 multicast traffic … all I see is 255.255.255.255 broadcast traffic. And while the former requires careful planning, the latter is

I received a Beam as a gift but the only TV where it would make sense is an older plasma model with a very bright and nice 720p picture. (My other newer TV already has a Playbar 5.1 setup.) We only watch this older TV using an Amazon Fire Stick so a single HDMI input (the TV has two) was all I needed to use.   I searched through this forum and others and never really found anyone with exactly my set up and just wanted it out there. The answer is a device that’s about $25: Audio Extractor Converter (JTDAT5CH). No doubt other brands would work but this model seemed to have many trustworthy reviews and, at least for me, worked right away as described. The only additional items needed are the HDMI cables, which I already had. Set up: HDMI cable from the Fire Stick to the audio extractor input. HDMI cable from the audio extractor output to the TV HDMI input. Sonos Beam optical connector to Beam’s HDMI cable. The only other tasks were to go the TV menu and turn off the internal speakers, the

My Wifi Box can issue Wifi signals in Wifi 6 norm. Can the Sonos signal use the Wifi 6 norm? If not, are there plans to upgrade the speakers and system to work with this new norm? If you plan on doing this, will it work with an online upgrade or will only new products able to operate with Wifi 6? What is the timeline for this? The advantage of Wifi 6 is that it accepts many systems at the same time and has a much longer operating range… Practical in a house...

I’ve been battling this one for a while and trying to get best set-up with minimal components and making best use of Sonos gear I already have. Gear I’m using: Lucky voice box mixer with 2 mics, Laptop with Spotify and Musicmatxh loaded, HDMI into old LG TV with sound off, Sound into Mixer and then into Sonos 5 (gen2) aux in (plus trying to get working with a Playbar via optical in) With the Play 5 the setup is plagued by the delay between singing voice and the sound being processed by Sonos system which makes it difficult to sing along as you can hear your voice delayed. Ideal solution would be if Play 5 aux in signal could be processed directly without lag - in similar way to when I play TV sound through my Playbar. Is there any software fix coming that could speed up the sound signal? 2nd challenge: I want to use the Lucky Voice in another room with laptop with Spotify and Music Match feeding into LG TV with optical out feeding Playbar. Has anyone tried to connect the karaoke mixer

My option to switch from PCM to DD on my Samsung 7 series TV is grayed out and unavailable. I read other questions similar to mine, but the solution given was that they weren’t playing a DD program. I made sure I am running a Dolby digital program directly on my TV, but I’m still getting stereo from my beam and no option to change it on my TV. What can I do? Tia

Long-time Sonos user, long-time network admin. So yes, I’m dangerous. For a variety of reasons (including but not limited to yesterday’s obsolescence news) I’ve split off a Connect:Amp onto its own Sonos setup under wireless (aka generic Wi-Fi) mode. The Connect:Amp and an Android controller are on a separate network from my main Sonos system, so there is no chance of any wires getting crossed. The Conntect:Amp and Android controller are happy and working great with my streaming music services. So this new setup is clean, thumbs up. I want the new setup to see my main Music Library hosted on a Windows 10 machine. As we all know, such a library is accessed via the Sonos Library Service (HTTP) as opposed to an SMB share. I configured my router to enable the HTTP traffic. Except there is no HTTP traffic. When I add a shared music folder on the Android Controller, it assumes that is on an SMB share. I’ve verified the SMB traffic--and no HTTP traffic--in the router logs. Soooo, how can I co

Hey there Given a Sonos network with 8 players. One player is wired to the router, as far as my understanding is right, my Sonos configuration is a SonosNet mesh network. I see WM:0 at each player. (All the seven other players are wireless) What happens if I turn off the Wifi (using the app) for the one player that is wired (my sonosnet coordinator)?  Will turning off the wifi causing problems? Because this one wired player is communicating over wireless to the other 7 player within the Sonos MeshNet?   Thank you in advance!

Just received the email about the new product offering, including the new port. Currently, I have a Connect attached to my Yamaha home theater with Play:1 speakers in adjacent rooms/areas. I cannot get through the 70ms lag produced by the AV receiver’s signal processor when streaming with any other device. Using analog input has reduced the lag, but it’s still annoying. Dies Port address the timing differences for 3rd party devices? If so, HOW?

Hi,  I recently purchased a Sonos Beam to complement my existing 2x IKEA SYMFONISK speakers. Yaaay! One thing I am trying to make it work is to add existing SYMFONISK speakers as surround to Beam, while Beam is connected to LG c8 Oled tv via HDMI ARC. However; it seems that I have not succeeded yet. While TV sound (including apps in the tv such as Netflix) comes through Beam, there is no sound comes through from SYMFONISK speakers, except background sound.  I have also tried using optical cable, which didn’t work either.  Is there a certain setting I need to change in TV/Speakers in order to get sound as surround from all speakers?    Thanks for your help in advance.

Hi all !  I recently bought Sonos one (gen 2) , I like to know how can I stream only the audio to Sonos one  when I watching a film in my projector . The way how I stream is using amazon fire dongle into the projector . Can I split the signal video and audio ?    My last setup was : projector connected hdmi with amazon fire dongle then from the projector  mini jack audio out into Bluetooth transmitter avantree oasis . This setup let me both ways , streaming my films or video music clips audio to my normal auto amplified speakers or to 2 x Bluetooth headphones then obviously watch the film without delay and cables around .  any tips please? Will help if at least I can setup Sonos one gen 2 like normal Bluetooth speakers .  thanks in advance !!  JM MORENO 

I have a Sonos Beam and two Play 1s connected to my Sony Bravia TV. I love it, but it has been a bit of a hassle. For example, I had to use a HDMI CRC Less adapter because my devices were interfering with the Sonos system. This took me a few months to diagnose and sort out (I’m not a tech wiz).  The Sonos system works like a charm now, but I’d like to have the capability to use Bluetooth headphones with my TV. The TV itself is not Bluetooth headphone equipped. I considered buying a Bluetooth transmitter to plug into my TV, but I fear switching the TV audio settings back and forth (from ‘audio system’ to ‘headphones’) will confuse the Beam again.  Does anybody have a workaround that would allow me to listen to headphones ‘through’ the Sonos system? Can I tap into it somehow, or do I have to wait for Sonos to release headphones of its own? Neither the Beam nor the Play 1s have an aux port.  I have seen reference to using a Sonos Connect, but that seams a little excessive (I have a Play 5

I have a 6 zone system; 5 are in an open plan large space with an attached patio, in line of sight of the router and the boost that is wired to it. Of these, 3 are wired to the core network and therefore the boost, with Wifi disabled. The 6th zone is in the bedroom, a play 1 stereo pair. It is separated from the open space by a brick wall, and is usually yellow and sometimes orange box in the Matrix. In this room, I have a Airport express unit that is ethernet wired back to the router, and it therefore provides a very strong WiFi signal in the bedroom. However, it is not convenient to run more wire to get the play 1 pair wire connected to the core network. I do not want to disturb the set up in the open plan space for 5 zones; that is working flawlessly. The question is, can I make use of the strong WiFi signal in the bedroom for the 1 pair located there? Note that any additional bridge to give the 1 pair a better signal does not work; the bridge is ignored because the cost of the resu

I recently purchased a new Onkyo receiver, Sonos speakers and amp.  The installation and configuration was fairly simple and straight forward.  I am very happy with them and everything is working together, but I have not been able to able to overcome the volume limiting.   I have Polk audio speakers and anyone that has had Polk audio speakers knows you need a good amp,  they are very power hungry and will not even operate until you have raised the volume to a higher level.  I have volume limit on sonos turned off and I have set my Onkyo amp to start at the volume that will start to power the speakers.   When I play music from the sonos app to my onkyo / polk audio the volume slide starts are near ½ to ¾ volume on the slide bar.  Leaving only about ¼ of the bar remaining to raise the volume.   When I move it to the max volume on the sonos app it is really only about ½ volume limit on the amp.  I can still adjust with amp controls.   In addition the sensitivity of the volume control with

I run the Sonos Controller in iOS on my “Data” subnet, and the Sonos Boost and speakers are on a “Sonos” subnet.  It mostly works, except for the initial discovery by the controller of the Boost and speakers.  I’m running a Unifi USG3 router and Unifi switches and APs.  I’ve set up the IGMP Proxy with the Data net upstream and the Sonos net and another “Devices” net as downstream.  The Boost is connected by Ethernet to a switch, and it’s the only Ethernet connection.  There is no firewall blocking from Data to Sonos or Devices.  I’ve set up all of the ports I think are needed from Sonos to Data.  When it is running, everything works smoothly.  If I let the controller run in the background on my iPhone, it comes right up when opened.  However, when I close the controller (swipe up on iPhone) and then try to open it again, it searches and can’t find the speakers.  Turning Wifi off and then on sometimes, but not usually, is enough that when I try to open it again, the controller can find

I am disappointed, like many, with the recent incompatibility of my iTunes devices with my Sonos system.  I want to get back to being able to play music from my many carefully developed playlists to my (rather expensive) Sonos products. Knowing that all my current Sonos equipment is incompatible with AirPlay2, here’s my question: If I replace my 5-year-old Sonos Connect (that feeds a built-in, hard-wired home audio speaker system) with the new Port, will that Port also facilitate AirPlay2 connection to my existing wireless Play 1 and Playbar based groups? My current setup: “House” - Connect system supplies analog audio to an amplifier and three pairs of built-in speakers. “Family Room” - A Playbar, (2) Play 1 speakers, and a Sub set up as a group for surround sound and audio. “Master Bedroom” - A pair of Play 1 speakers in an upstairs bedroom as a separate speaker group. So, from the Sonos website information, I understand that the Port would allow me to use AirPlay2 for audio playback

I’ve seen that there are similar threads here, including this one and another one.  Of course, there is enough of a variation that I need to bring up this topic all over again. I have a new house and, over 300’ away, is an old barn that was on the lot when we bought it.  The barn is now almost all renovated and being used as a recreation area and guest house.  Of course that’s far enough away that I need a 2nd wifi router.  Without going into details (and the people who don’t get simple things), I need to keep the house router and barn router with different SSIDs, but they have the same password. So here’s how the network is set up: In the house, I have my main internet connection that comes through the ISP’s router to my own PFSense firewall that also serves as a DHCP server.  The firewall has a CAT5 cable going to a switch and, from there, ethernet connections go through the walls to all over the house.  Whenever possible, I use a cable to connect a device rather than wifi.  All my S

I’m trying to use my existing HTD MCA-66 12 channel amplifier with 6 zones to play music throughout my home. Ideally I would keep the main zone running through my denon receiver and the audio would be as is today. The challenge is getting the other zones to play a different source while the main source is still running in my living room. So, basically I want to watch and listen to what’s on in my living room and still be able to listen to music in other rooms that doesn’t have to be the same as what is playing in my living room. I purchased the sonos connect because I was told by my audio guy that this is what would be required in order to accomplish this. I have tried all options I can think of, and havwnt had any success to this point. any help / advice / guidance would be greatly appreciated.

I recently wired my home for in ceiling speakers that are being powered by Sonos.  Most go back to a home base where multiple amps reside, and some go to the rooms where they need to accept a line in input such as a cable box.  What would be the most efficient setup?  I prefer to use ethernet vs wireless whenever possible.   Location 1: Wired connection Main switch (which connects to all non sonos ethernet ports in the house as well) → Sonos Bridge → Sonnos Amp (new) → 6 Sonos Connect Amp ZP120 all daisy chained Location 2: Wired connection to Main Switch (same as above) → Sonos Amp (new) Location 3: Wired connection to Main switch (same as above) → Sonos Connect Amp ZP120 → Sonos Connect AMP ZP120 → Sonos Connect Amp ZP100 There are also 2 Play:1 and 1 Play:5 being used wireless in the house.     Should any of these be wired back to the switch instead of daisy chained? Do I get any benefit from having the Sonos Bridge wired where it is in location 1? Is there a maximum for daisy chain

I recently got a new Fire TV (Insignia NS-58DF620CA20) and uses the remote that came in the box (NS-RCFCA-19) My research has told me that the remote is an RF remote vs an IR remote.  I want to control my sonos with the remote, however I do not believe it is possible.  Any suggestions?