Advanced setups

We just bought a second Sonos One speaker for the downstairs area, but would prefer not to have to say "in the kitchen" or "in the living room" after each command, and we don't need to have the same music playing at the same time throughout the house. So is it possible to create two separate Sonos networks, that are on the same WiFi network, and that use the same Spotify account? Or can't they both play at the same time then?

I bought a faulty Sonos ZP100 which had previously been opened. I therefore had no option of a Sonos repair or out of warranty exchange. I couldn’t find a guide to strip the unit down so worked it out myself. I have since written a guide which will hopefully help someone in the future but I accept no responsibility for any damage caused by following it. At the end of the guide I have written a small explanation of the repair needed for my unit which appeared to have suffered a power surge and no longer powered up. Please feel free to improve or alter the guide. Thanks. http://www.mediafire.com/download/0duavcuf1zyuc8u/sonos_dismantle.pdf

My tv volume is to be lowered at 10pm etc

Hi there, I have a Play 3,5 and Sub. And I just got sonos one for Christmas and have had everything in standard mode. Question is this, because the new One has an Ethernet port at the back, can I use as the facilitator in a boost configuration? I was under the impression I could, but I’m struggling a bit getting it there. Thanks in advance!

I built a box of sorts for my Sonos Play 1 to sit within. Why? At the request of my wife, to make the unit better match our kitchen decor. At any rate, I put two knobs on the front of this box. I'd like one knob to control the volume of the Sonos unit and the other, to control the volume of the group of speaker that the enclosed speaker is part of. At first, I was thinking of using an Arduino board and using commands with this set of protocol: https://github.com/tmittet/sonos Basically, the Arduino board would join the WiFi, and push commands for volume, etc. However, I'm wondering if using the ethernet jack would be better. What I don't know is whether the ethernet jack can supply access to the WiFi for sending signals to control volume or f the jack is ignored if it isn't supplying connectivity. What I mean by this is that I could have a Raspberry PI or an Arduino board within the box with a WiFi enabled board in order to send signals. So - I guess the real questio

I have got 2 Samsung TVs in two different living areas. The first has had a Sonos Playbar set up for a while with no real issues (other than the 'Smart' remote doesn't work - but the standard one does). I decided to buy a second Playbar for the other room recently. Its set up with the same TV (different screen size) - the UE486700 - but the difference is that the Playbar is housed in a media unit with speaker material on the front. This allows the sound through OK but doesn't let the IR signal from the TV remote control to get through to control the volume. The Sky box is also located there, and I use the Samsung TV IR extender placed in front of the Sky box, so that the TV passes the signal through meaning I can control the Sky box using the TV remote control. I wanted to see if this would work with the Sonos (before buying a IR extender with multiple repeaters on the end) but when I move the IR repeater in front of the Sonos IR receiver, the TV remote does not operate the

A 12v Trigger would come in very handy when you have multiple ZP90's in a system and they are all wired to a multi channel amplifier. When the zone is activated the trigger would relay the amp to turn on and vice versa. The trigger also would help in heat build up and amp not being on 24/7.

I have a boat. I have used Sonos for the past year. I have 2 play 5s, one sub, 5 play 3s, and one connect amp. I have a NAS. I don't have a broadband but use my ipad to control everything and it works great all the time using my NAS and most of the time using MOG (Subscription). However, when I move from marina to marina, if the marina doesn't have Wi-Fi, I use my own hotspot (AttUnite), and a 450 trendnet dual band router. That is when I get conflicts. the failure is always the same message, "unable to add tracks to the queue", (NAS works great but MOG doesn't load tracks), however, my playlists from MOG play as I get to MOG and see there menu like "just for you" when I select a track it says unable to add track to queue. Oddly, my playlists will play after I select them a time or two. I have looked at each devices channel and they are all different (I changed them). Yes I power down each device each time and powered up in router, bridge, ZP order. Ideas? Also, when I check

I am not familiar with some of the terminology like ohm so trying to make sure I do this right. I have 5 in ceiling speakers installed a connect amp and a play bar and subwoofer. From what I understand the rear two would be needed for surround sound. I don’t want to waste the front 3 so would like to use these for playing music when not used for surround sound. One option is to put 2 back speakers on its own connect amp and set up that way. But what about the front 3? Can I connect 3 speakers to an amp? I only see instructions for 2 or 4? As a second option I saw that I can hook up an impedance switch to turn off a pair of speakers. Can this be used to support what I want to do and therefore I only need one amp vs 2? But that still leaves my third middle speaker out ? Finally I have 2 outdoor speakers I’d like to pair on an amp with 2 indoor. 2 indoor are 8ohm. The outdoor say 4 or 8? Outdoor power says 100 watts and the indoor says 120

I am trying to set my SONOS specific to specific IP addresses. The current SONOS IP addresses are 192.168.xx.100 to 192.168.xx.106 as assigned via the DHCP server.The revised SONOS IP addresses are to be 192.168.xx.200 to 192.168.xx.206. While I am well aware as to how to assign / move a DHCP ASSIGNED IP address to a DHCP RESERVED IP address (as I have successfully done for other devices) it is not working for any of my SONOS devices. While I was looking for solutions to this through the internet I noticed that the problem MAY BE that I have a SONOS Boost connected to 192.168.xx.100 with all other devices connected to the SONOS Boost per this article (see https://sonos.custhelp.com/app/answers/detail/a_id/3453/~/how-to-check-if-sonos-is-in-a-standard-or-boost-setup ). That is I noticed saw "WM: 0" for all devices. As I understand things this is likely the problem as the SONOS devices are getting there IP Addresses from the BOOST because they are connected to the BOOST (i.e

Unable to use Sonos Player with Cisco Umbrella Roaming Client

So I have a bit of an odd issue. (This may not be the correct forum, but I thought I'd try.) As some background, I have a rather advanced home / home lab setup. I have a Fortigate router that supports a wired network and a wireless AP hanging off a separate subnet. The wireless subnet has a DHCP relay operating that forwards DHCP broadcast requests to a Windows server. Sonos ZPs are operating off the wired network. Any devices hanging off the wireless are currently unable to utilize the Sonos app to control the ZPs. If I enable a rule allowing a broadcast on 255.255.255.255 between the subnets then the Sonos app will function. However, iOS devices will be unable to obtain an IP from the DHCP server. I am assuming there's a conflict happening with the relay but am uncertain. Thoughts?

Is it possible to launch the Sonos Controller app on Android through a URL? A similar function exists for Spotify and Pandora: - pandora://channel_name - spotify://app/browse Found an old topic which referred to SonoPad app which supported URL links but this is for iOS and obviously not the official Sonos Controller app.

A friend gave me an old ZP80 he had that didn't power on. I opened it up and there's a chip on the power supply that's blown up. The top of the IC is gone so I can't look up the part number. Curious if anyone has high res pictures or knowledge of the ZP80 power supply so I can replace the damaged parts? Thanks.

I have 4 outdoor speakers (passive) going to my Sonos ConnectAmp. Sounds great! I recently purchased the Polk Atrium Sub 10 to add some bass to the yard. The Sub has 4 wires L-,L+, R-, R+, and I only have a 14 gauge 2 wire running to the location of the sub. I understand I need to add another amp to power the sub, how would I wire this? What is a good amp to hook the sub to? how would I hook up the two subs together? Thanks in advance!

Hi All, I'm looking for an alternative to a current speaker setup which integrate for work - Clipsal Ceiling Bluetooth speakers. The issue I have is constant dropouts and hardware hangs. Clipsal won't comment on the issue even though we've purchased over 200 speakers via our vendor from them. I'm looking for alternatives and the Play 1's may be a decent fit for my setup, although, I have questions before I run a test site. Our sites are early learning schooling sites which have anywhere between 5-10 rooms at each campus. Currently each room has an iPad kiosk which I have connected to a Synology NAS running DSAudio. iPads are connected to the Clipsal Bluetooth Ceiling speakers and audio is pushed from the NAS to the iPad to the Speakers. With the connectivity issues we are experiencing I'm looking for an alternative to bluetooth and the Sonos Play 1 may fit the requirements. Our environment is the following at each site: Cisco Meraki APs HP Aruba POE Switch Network poin

I'm am trying to understand how SonosNet works with ethernet connected devices. I have recently been experiencing dropouts from local NAS & Spotify. I think I have found the issue, but hoping someone with more experience can clarify if my understanding is correct, after looking at logs on router. Lets say there are 2 players, 1E (connected to Ethernet), 2S (connected via SonosNet/wireless to 1E) If I start Spotify on player 2S, I can see this player (via IP address in my router) streaming from Spotify, so this must be connecting via 1E to the router, plays OK. If I then group player 1E to the 2S player, player 1E sometimes drops. I can see that player 2S is still streaming on router. So it seems the data is flowing from router --> 1E --SonosNet--> 2S --SonosNet--> 1E, is that correct? If I start streaming from 1E then add 2S to group I dont get drop outs. I also see similar if I play local music from NAS (especially Apple Lossless), I get dropouts if I start from a no

I have three Play 1 speakers and one Play 5 speaker in my system. I have had no communication problems in the past with all 4 of them. Today, I cannot connect to one of my Play 1 speakers through my app on my iPhone. When I try to play music through it the error message "Unable to connect to Sonos player" appears. I CAN play music through my PC on this speaker. I have tried unplugging the speaker to reset the connection without success. Can someone guide me in the direction to fix this connection? I am on a Bridge connection, which I have also reset without success.

I'm trying to play some FLAC files on my SONOS system and I get the error message: "unable to play ..... it is encoded at unsupported sample rate 9600 hz" I've never seen this error message before. Does this mean the end of the road or is there a work around? Could I re-digitize them at a different sample rate because my other FLAC files play fine. Maybe SONOS has plans to change their specs or is it the old debate about whether the human ear can appreciate the difference in quality or not? Any help would be appreciated as I'm new to this game.

In my basement, I have 4 speakers - all of them are ATOS Storm A62ST speakers that are dual voice coil. Each speaker has 4 wires coming from the back of it, wired to a central location... so 16 wires in total... is it possible to attach all 4 of these speakers (and, of course, all 16 wires) to a single Sonos Connect:AMP? I know the Sonos site says 4, 8 ohm speakers can be connected, but does the fact that each speaker is dual voice coil with 4 wires each mean that I can only have two of these on a single Connect:AMP? Thanks in advance for any and all help!

Hi I have a Cisco layer 3 switch (Catalyst 3560) and a wireless LAN that uses a Cisco LAN Controller (WLC 2504) and AP1042 access points. I have connected the Sonos components to the wired LAN on the same subnet as a computer with my music library, and it is able to connect to the Sonos components. However, I am unable to get my iOS devices on the WiFi network (same subnet) to connect to the Sonos components. I have enabled multicast on the WLC, and added the multicast group address 239.255.255.250 that I found on forum number 27459. (The iOS AppleTV Remote app started working when I enabled multicast, so there's some indication that it's working generally.) Does anyone have experience with this that you could share? Are there other configuration parameters--on the WLC or the switch--that need to be set? Thanks Bongo

Hi there, I'm a user who has been routinely pushing the 65000 track limit in my library, so I am used to checking my stats. yesterday i updated the software on my 4 players and controllers, computers, etc. I can no longer see the track summary / count when i visit http://nnn.nnn.nnn.nnn:1400/support/review , it's just missing, all i see is: Kid's Room (RINCON_000E5875893601400) Zone Player Info Zone Players Media Servers DNS Cache Ethernet Ports Ethernet Ports Statistics Accounts /VERSION /etc/resolv.conf /proc/ath_rincon/status /proc/ath_rincon/phyerr /proc/ath_rincon/nf /proc/ath_rincon/station /sbin/ifconfig /usr/bin/uptime /usr/sbin/brctl showstp br0 Kitchen (RINCON_B8E937D68DEC01400) Master Bedroom (RINCON_000E5870413601400) Living Room (RINCON_000E5820311801400) Network Matrix I've been into all these options and it just seems to have been removed. Any ideas?

Hey guys, We recently got a WiFi extender that re-broadcasts the same signal from the main WiFi router, but it is using a different SSID. Our Sonos speakers are all connected to the main WiFi router via standard setup(i.e. wirelessly via WiFi, not via a Boost/wired setup), so if a controller (e.g. an Android phone) is connected to the WiFi extender, it is unable to detect the Sonos speakers. Any ideas or tips on how to make such a setup work? We need the WiFi extender or something similar because the signal from the main WiFi router is very weak at certain spots in the house. We've also tried making the SSID and password the same for both the main WiFi router and the WiFi extender, but it just makes it a hit or miss at that point because the Android phone will list only one SSID, so you won't know which one it is -- router or extender. I suppose we can try a mesh router setup but that's a bit out of the budget at the moment.

Twice now I have woken up in the middle of the night to a thunderous sound. It sounds literally like thunder and a storm outside until I look out the window and see all is calm. Then I walk downstairs to the other side of the house where the kitchen is and as I approach there is a loud, thumping, thunderous sound - like hell itself - coming from the stereo pair of Play 5 speakers (gen 2). As far as I can tell, the volume is on full and the sound is so intense that both times I did not have the chance to check the app and see what the source was. I could not use the buttons on the top of the Play 5 to stop, I had to unplug both from the wall socket individually. So far it has not appeared to break the speaker but I fear the next time it might happen. Here are some other facts that maybe useful in the analysis of the problem: 1. Both speakers are more than 1year old 2. They have only recently (2 weeks ago) been coupled into a stereo pair (previously they were used in separate roo

Hi, My home network sits behind a Watchguard hardware Firewall (an XTM25). I have a Connect Amp that I want to use with Spotify and TuneInRadio. Following setup the device is not making itself available in Spotify and I am seeing the Watchguard deny a lot of traffic from the Connect Amp. Being a bit lazy as have done minimal investigation. But could anyone offer some advice as to the configuration changes I need to make to the Watchguard? Thanks!