Get help with Sonos Connect, Connect:AMP, Sonos AMP, and setups using Sonance architectural, or your own speakers and components.
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my connect amp has been temperamental, but has more or less functioned as i wanted since the initial purchase in 2018. i use it to stream music to old analog bookshelf speakers.it went beyond temperamental and stopped being recognized by the sonos app about 6 weeks ago. i’ve been fiddling around with it, on and off since then. i deleted then reinstalled the sonos app, performed a factory reset numerous times and attempted to log onto my wifi network several times. i have been able to get to the point in the sonos app where i can enter the password. i can see the correct network, i input the correct password, but sonos cannot get on the network.i have seen suggestions to make changes to my network for the sonos. i have five other devices on my network, so i am reluctant to make any router changes for the sonos.i’m thinking, that maybe, i had a lightning surge 6 weeks ago, and that maybe something on the sonos got surged and that is what is preventing it’s entrance to wifi network.this c
I have a Sonos Amp powering 4 Sonance in wall hidden speakers as well a Sonos Mini Sub. I can add the sub to my Sonos system, but when I add the sub to my Amp it will not play along. After about 30 seconds it will say Sub not connected. I then have to remove it from the system and reinstall it, before it can be used again. If I add it to my Arc ultra, the sub works just fine. All components are updated to latest firmware. How can I add my sub to the Sonos Amp?
I have a Bronze Audi speakers wired to my Sonos Amp, as well as my TV. If I was to wirelessly connect a wireless turntable, to the Amp, would the audio still play through my speakers?
I recently purchased a Marantz 7725 2 channel power amp to drive my LR mini towers. To simplify and automate the system for my wife, I intentionally chose an amp that had a 12VDC trigger input. Imagine my surprise when the Port failed to trigger the amp! Grr! I tried Sonos support and the newbie on the line didn’t even know what a trigger was, no less it’s functionality. Double grrr!I am a retired Cedía guy, so I went to this forum to do some research, and learned that the Port’s trigger can only synch 200ma, which is pretty lame IMO. I could not find a spec on the current draw on the Marantz, but I was pretty sure I knew the solution. I bought a 12VDC SPST relay (ELK 912 that I’d been using for years) that draws 40ma from the coil. The Port triggered it open and closed as expected. I used it to close the circuit of a standard wall wart (500ma) and viola! Problem solved. Sigh…. My love/hate relationship with Sonos continues. At least I got my Music Library back (finally!!!). I was a d
Is anyone else experiencing Sonos May 2024 Deja Vu?TuneIn podcasts haven't been working for close to a month, with apparently no sense of urgency to get this fixed.Now a new update adds steps to the simplest of functions (change the radio station, switch from one speaker zone to another - why more steps??).Just when I was thinking Sonos had stabilized it is eroding again.
Hi,Unfortunately my Sonos Connect AMP got bricked somehow. I opened it up, measured the voltages and found a UART port. I hooked it up to my laptop and it gave me the following serial output: U-Boot 1.1.1(1-17-3-2.1), Build: 2.1MPC8272 Reset Status: Check Stop, External Soft, External HardMPC8272 Clock Configuration - Bus-to-Core Mult 3x, VCO Div 4, 60x Bus Freq 16-50 , Core Freq 50-150 - dfbrg 1, corecnf 0x10, busdf 3, cpmdf 1, plldf 0, pllmf 3 - vco_out 400000000, scc_clk 100000000, brg_clk 25000000 - cpu_clk 300000000, cpm_clk 200000000, bus_clk 100000000 - pci_clk 33333333CPU: MPC8272 (HiP7 Rev 14, Mask unknown [immr=0x0d10,k=0x00e1]) at 300 MHzBoard: Sonos WembleyDRAM: 64 MBDRAM testTest complete - 0 errors, error pattern 00000000Using default environmentIn: serialOut: serialErr: serialNAND:64 MBST Micro NAND 64MiB 3,3V 8-bit at 0xf8000000 (64 MB, 16 kB sector)Bad block lbase 0, pbase 0, count 4096Net: FCC2 ETHERNETHit any key to stop autoboot: 0 S0 provisi
hi all - so now I'm attempting to connect a few hifi components…Pro-ject S3 CD Player+Pro-ject Tuner Box S3 DAB++Pro-ject T1 Evo Phono turntable+Pro-ject Stereo Box E integrated amp+Sonos Era 100s (set up as stereo pair)So firstly it seems there aren’t enough inputs on the back of the Stereo Box E for all this. Secondly, even connecting all but one component (the DAB) I still can’t get any sound out of my speakers.Would a different amp solve this?thanks :) James
I'm having trouble to connect my zp90 to my Sonos setup/network. I have the S1 app and have a play:5(gen1) connected. I used to have my own soundsystem connected with the zp90, but moving some parts I can't seem to get the zp90 online again. I'm following the instructions on the S1 app but can't seem to find the device, even if connected to the router with LAN cable. The zp90 just keeps blinking very fast white light. What am I missing? How to set up the zp90 these days?
Since 2014, you have gone from bad to worse. While your sound remains great (who’s isn’t?), your lackluster software upgrades / support have been a perpetual joke. How are you still competing with superior vendors, one might ask? I’ll leave that to others to discover.
Hi, anyone knows the value of this 2 diodes next R1260 and C39. The amp is dead and found IC U28881 was blown. Replaced it but now the red light is blinking and I believe it’s an indicator for protection. It’s missing 5V switching supply to the IC next to it. Hopefully someone with similar problem can assist me solve this. Thank you in advance.
I have a port hooked up to a vintage music centre via analogue (obvs). All has been well but recently the port has started making a weird noise. It’s hard to describe, a digital noise that isn’t particularly loud but is noticeable. It almost sounds like something from an old space invaders game. It occurs every 56 seconds and regardless of whether music is playing. If I reboot the Port it will go away but returns after some time, don’t know exactly when. I’m presuming the Port is faulty but wondered if this was a known issue. Has anyone experienced anything like this?
Hi! I have old Sonos connect on a NAD amp. I would like to connect Sonos in-wall speakers. As they are passive it should work properly.Have you tested this configuration? Do you confirm ? My plan is to be ready to change the Connect to a future Port and Sonos Amp later. Thanks for the help ; )
Current setup: turntable --> pre-amp --> era 100. i want to have the turntable audio also play out of my Adam A5X active studio monitors.Can i get a sonos port, and connect the outputs to the Adam A5x(no inputs connected to port) and then group the Era 100 turntable audio to the port, so that the audio from the turntable plays out of both the era 100 and the adam a5x’s via the port?if so, will there be a delay of any kind?
I have the possibility of purchasing a secondhand Sub Gen 3. Will it work with my Connect:Amp Gen 2 through the S2 app? Much searching online and I know that the Connect:Amp Gen 1 definitely will NOT work, but unclear whether the Gen 2 will. Thank you for any assistance.
I plan to use Sonos amp to drive my JBL l100 MKII speaker, but I'm not sure if it's appropriate and if it can fully utilize the speaker's capabilities.Do you have any friends with experience in this area? Please advise.
I have a house with in-wall/in-ceiling speakers in 4 different rooms plus outdoor for a total of 5 zones. They are connected to a mechanical switch box and then a Denon AVR. The switch can select one or more zones for playing the source audio. Each zone has a wall mounted volume control.I know I can connect these speakers to my Sonos system with Sonos Port but I’d like to see the individual zones in the Sonos App and control the volume using the app. Is there an alternative to the existing “dumb” speaker selector switch that will integrate with Sonos and let me do what I want?Any thoughts or suggestions would be much appreciated! Thanks in advance.
I have two Sonos Connect Amp Gen 1 connected to a pair of KRK Rokit 5” and 8” speakers. In both cases, there is LOTS of static coming from both speakers. I paid $40 for two double shields RCA cables, and the static persists. I’ve read a LOT of threads with people complaining that these Connect Amps produce static. I’m 99% certain that the issue is with the Sonos Connect Amps, but thought I would ask regardless if anything can be done to eradicate the static.
Mon ampli ne veut plus s’allumer
I know this question has been asked before but it has never been satisfactorily answered. I have 2 x Sonos Boost, one attached to my router and one upstairs to help signal to distant speakers. The Boosts disappeared from the App after the big controversial update last year. They also don't appear in my "System Info" list.All I want to know is if the Boosts are doing anything at all?! Or am I just wasting electricity? Or if I need to reconnect them somehow?This is a simple yes or no question, and I'd appreciate if someone from Sonos could answer it instead of just some random conjecture. I will also note that I have a Sonos Port attached to my record player and my Wifi Router. I understand this also functions like a Boost. The Port works fine.
Please tell me ,if it is possible to connect a sub mini or sub 4 to a Sonos Amp wirelessly, or is it necessary for the Sub Mini and Sub 4 and the Sonos Amp to be connected with an Ethernet cable?
Here is my current setup:Sony STR-DN1050 7.1 Receiver connected to in-ceiling (non-SONOS) speakers and sub. HDMI cable from Cable Box to Receiver. SONOS Connect as a line in to Receiver.Receiver and Cable Box are installed remotely in a closet.This works ok, but in order to listen to SONOS on my speakers, I have to turn the Receiver on and select the SONOS input. I haven’t found a capability of doing that on my phone, which means I either have to control the receiver through my TV, which is finicky at best, or go to the closet to change the input. Obviously, this is not ideal. Also, it means that anytime I want to listen to SONOS, I can’t also watch TV as that comes through my receiver.I would prefer not to buy any new equipment, so with what I have, does anyone have any better ideas for how I can use my existing speakers for 7.1 surround sound, but also use them for SONOS without the above limitations?If the answer is that it just has to work that way, is there a Works with SONOS r
I set 1 alarm on my Sonos Port. On at 10:30am, off at 9:00pm. Lately it just makes the chime/bong sound and I have to log into it to tell it to play the music I selected. This shouldn’t be something I have to check daily.
I have an older system with a Bridge that just failed due to a bad power source. My speakers are in the walls and I can't connect them directly to the router. Should I buy a Boost if possible or see if I can find a new power source for the Bridge and get a few more years out of it? Thanks
HelloI have a Sonos AMP. C17 had a short circuit. Unfortunately, this also burned out the L2 coil (470 µH). Apparently, the circuit path on the multilayer board is also broken, and I believe the path from the L2 coil to resistor R1263 is also broken. Can anyone confirm that the path goes there? R1263 (1 kΩ) has approximately 300V there.Unfortunately, my AMP isn't working yet because I don't fully understand what SONOS has put together. It contains several PWM chips.RegardsStephan
I have an S1 system (a couple of old Play:5 devices) and an S2 system (with 6 zones, including a Sonos Amp). The Amp and most other S2 devices are using wireless.Things generally work well, but the Amp has started to be troublesome. It appears in the Sonos App on my iPhone/iPad devices, then disappears. When it’s there, if I try to play anything (local library, Spotify, BBC Sounds), there’s a delay and I then get a message saying “The connection timed out”.I’ve rebooted it (including leaving power off for 24 hours) but no change.Using a port scanner (ports 1-1400), I am told ports 1400, 1410, 1443, 1843 are open. I’m not aware of any others than should be - shout if there are any others I should check.Pointing a browser at http://10.1.1.117:1400/status I get a handful of links - enetports, wireless, zp, ifconfig etc.Most links provide (on cursory examination) valid data. However, using ifstatus I’m told the connection has timed out. I’m puzzled by this as ifstatus should just t
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