Spaces & Setups

I have a Sonos play bar and was wondering what are the best sonos speakers that will hook up with play bar? I want to place a wireless speaker on an end table so I can hear It better

I have a Five connected to my PC via the line-in. The PC sometimes is used for Skype, Zoom, etc. Mostly I use the Five for streaming. But if the PC beeps or otherwise makes a sound, it terminates the music stream, which I have to restart. It would be MUCH better if either the Five could simply merge the two input streams (act as a mixer), or return to streaming when the PC shuts up. Seems like at least the second approach should be a very easy fix, with a switch to control whether this behavior is enabled. Acting as a mixer might be harder, but should be considered.Does anybody else have this problem? 

Has anyone successfully connected their turntable to a ZP100 using the Behringer PP400? I’m on my second unit and getting nowhere. I have a Dual 604 with a Shure M75ED cartridge which works fine with my separates system and I’m struggling to believe they could supply two faulty preamps!!! Any help appreciated.

hi Guys,Ive hooke up my arc via the DHMI ARC port on my sony bravia KD75XH8096BU 75 Inch 4K Ultra HD Smart Android TV.Issue im having is that i the audio is always via the sonos and i cant have the tv sound only,  i can select tv sound via the tv audio settings, but after a second or two the sound reverts back through the sonos.  how can i solve this,   i just want to use the sonos when watching a film and not running everytime the tv is on.  TIA  

I was hoping someone has had a similar issue that I’m currently experiencing with the Sonos Beam and found some sort of solution. This has driven me crazy to the point that I’m ready to get rid of this sound bar. I have a Vizio P75 F-1 TV which I connected my Sonos Beam to using the HDMI ARC port. At first, the Sonos Beam worked great. My TV remote controlled the volume (though it was always delayed) and was always connected as soon as the TV was turned on. Then about 3 months later, the Beam stopped automatically connecting and I would have to manually go into my TV settings and connect the Beam. This was annoying but at least it still worked. Fast forward to about 6 months ago, my Beam is now completely useless. When watching TV, no sound comes out. When I go to the CEC settings on my TV, it says the Beam is connected, but no sound.    Some of the solutions I’ve tried: Power cycling both the TV and Beam Adjusting the Beam settings on the Sonos app (IR settings, TV set-up, etc) R

Okay, so I recently received an LG ThinQ TV with the Magic Remote and had difficulty setting it up to control the Sonos system. I spent a decent amount of time researching how to do it and after following step by step processes of known setup up procedures to make it work, it still didn’t work. Needless to say, the one step that made it work was to simply turn off the tv and run the remote configuration setup through the Sonos app and it works seamlessly.  

When will voice assistants be available in Colombia? 

Hey,My Playbase randomly disappear from my system. The only way to make it visible again is to restart it by pulling the plug. This is very annoying as you might guess.Except from my Playbase i own four Sonos One, and they all work fine.Help!

Hi,while visiting my parents over Christmas, I made the following observation: they have a small Sonos system in their home, consisting of two Play:1 and one Play:5 gen. 2 as well as a Bridge. At some point they upgraded their system to S2, so all the Speakers are running S2 now while the bridge is of course still on S1 and should not work with the rest of the system anymore, or that’s at least what I expected. Since I thought the bridge would be rather useless now, I unplugged it’s power cable just to realize that by doing this, all the speakers stopped working and the app lost connection to the system. Plugging the bridge back in, system reverted to normal operation. In the app under “My System” all the components are shown with WM:0, meaning they have a wired connection (via the bridge). So why exactly does Sonos tell us that the Bridge is not compatible with S2, which might be technically correct (it still runs S1) but who cares as long as it does its job? Best,Andreas 

Hi. It is still a little unclear to me about the clearance needed when mounting the Arc to the wall. My TV/wall mount combo is about 3” from the wall and if I mounted the Arc to the wall, there would be about 2”-2.5” between the bottom of the TV and the top of the Arc. The Arc drivers take up a little over 2.5” of the front of the arc. I am wondering how thick the Arc mount is and how much further out it will make the Arc from the wall. Will the Arc stick out enough past the TV to avoid the sound being obstructed? If so, then is the 2-2.5” of clearance between the TV and Arc sufficient for the Arc to work properly?   Thank you and apologies if this has been answered before. I could not find the answer to my particular situation.

  I have a SONOS system (10 zones, 12 players) that, after years of messing around, had finally become fairly stable and reliable.  (I use SONOSNET to link the speakers, not my WiFi) I recently added a SONOS Move and was having issues with it disappearing from my system every few hours.  The “Find Missing Product” system function in my Android App didn’t help.  By the way, after failing at step one, it asks you to plug a hardwired CAT5 connection into the missing player.  Good luck doing this on a Move!  There is also no graceful way to back out of this function once you are in it.  I had to Force Stop my Android Sonos controller App !  But I digress. It turns out that a setting on my Ubiquiti Unifi network was interfering with the Sonos Move, but not my other 12 players. There is lots of information available on the advantages of limiting broadcast and multicast messages over LANs with multiple Unifi access points.  I had done this for some time with no ill effects on any of my 75 or

Hi everyone   First post here - I pre-ordered the ARC fully knowing that it only has 1 HDMI-eARC port and its gonna be mega pain for PC users to Dolby Atmos to it unless you are gaming on a TV with eARC. So let’s start trying to find solutions…. I have started a new petition (as futile as it may be...) at nvidia to ask them to natively support hdmi audio only output on the gpus (given most of the monitor us PC gamers using gsync (or freesync-compatible) would have a spare HDMI slot) - please go sign here if you wish: https://www.nvidia.com/en-us/geforce/forums/feed/377326/native-hdmi-audio-support-sonos-beam-and-sonos-a/ As for my main question, has anyone tried using an audio extractor and successfully extracted a dolby atmos audio stream? Given that the ARC hasn’t been released, i figured someone out there must have tried it on an Atmos AVR.  Ps. i’m really excited for the ARC to arrive. Can’t wait to sit in front of it to game.   

Hi, a little help required please.  I’ve an older (2012 KDL46” Sony Bravia TV) hooked up to a Sonos Arc and 2 Play ones as rears. As it’s an older TV we use a Chromecast for the normal catch up services and for our Amazon Prime and Disney+ subscriptions. My problem is I don’t think I’m getting 5.1 for anything that goes through the Chromecast. The exact same film watched straight from the TV sounds so much better (full surround) than when I stream from Disney+. I just had the opportunity to flick between a Pixar movie on BBC and  stream the same on Disney+ and the TV broadcast sound was full surround I’d say, the Chromecast just seemed to have an ambient or stereo rear split at a background volume. I’ve fiddled with a number of settings on the TV and the Chromecast but I can’t seem to fix it. Any ideas?

I set up a Beam in its own Sonos room. This is attached to the TV. I would like to move it to a Sonos room which contains 2 Play 1’s. These are in the same physical room as the TV/Beam. I have grouped them but can’t find the right mix for clear dialogue from the TV. I want to Trueplay the three components as a set but don’t believe I can do that for a group.

Hey folks, First time posting here. So I've set up my Sonos Arc via ARC to my LG C8. I've been getting Dolby Atmos just fine via my Apple TV 4K (thanks to my LG C8 being able to decode the Dolby Atmos signal into a lossy format for regular ARC), but when I started up my Xbox One X today and went over to the audio settings and changed it to HDMI: Bistream Out and then I choose Bistream format: Dolby Atmos for home theater, I get no sound, silence... When you initially choose that option, it makes you launch the Dolby Access app and then you can go to the product section to "setup" Dolby Atmos. I did that and it's turned on with the channel upmixer setting turned on as well. If I set it to Dolby Digital or stereo uncompressed, I get sound. Although sometimes, when I'm on Dolby Atmos and then switch to either one of those, I'll still get silence and will need to do a hard restart (hold down power button on console for 8 seconds). Wondering if anyone has found a way to get this to wor

I’m connecting a pair of JBL C60PS/T subwoofers to my amp. My system has 2 amps each running 2 pairs of jbl pendants. 1. Do I connect the pair of subs to only 1 amp? Or 1 sub to each amp? 2. What do I need to connect the wires from subs to RCA out on amp?  

I’m incredibly frustrated with the Sonos ecosystem the past 24 months, but unfortunately I’ve got enough invested in the eco system I’m still trying to make use. I don’t know what sort of pissing match Sonos is in with Google on the backend but the ZERO updates to Google Assistant or the numerous issues plaguing it since release suggest there is one. I’ve given up on Sonos Google Assistant and just ditched it. That said, Google have forced everyone to YouTube Music so I can’t dodge that. With YTM we’ve lost the ability to cast from the YTM app to Sonos speakers. Google Play could, YTM can’t so clearly not a technical thing but a business thing.Sonos’s response is “use our app”. Ok let’s pretend like it’s 8 years ago and that’s how people want to stream their music, the YTM integration into Sonos is brutal. All of the missing features below were possible with Google Play. Can’t add a current playing song to library. So anything you find and want to keep, you need to take that track titl

Playbar is installed for the TV with optical cable and TV´s own speakers are set off.Volume is controlled thru the Sony remote control, set up with Sonos.Playbar might change volume setting between the TV channels (also whatever streaming, Netflix etc. sources) or after restart.Volume might be very loud or you can´t hear nothing...To solve such issues, I found only way to push remote control volume down (step by step to zero) and then again higher reaching the requested volume level.This is really tiresome and I would be really thankful to find a way to solve the issues!

I can’t add any songs or stations to My Sonos (also known as Sonos Favorites) using my iPhone Sonos S1 app. It just says “Unable to add [name] to My Sonos.” Also tried adding songs to Sonos Favorites using the macOS Controller app (just updated to latest version) but it also fails.I tried adding songs from Amazon Music, YouTube Music, my local music library. They all fail. Also tried adding a Station on Pandora to My Sonos and that fails too. Anyone else having the same issue?

Various issuesJust cuts out whenever it feels like it 2. Can’t connect to Spotify message 3. Cannot conne t to apple messagetried all fixestried hard wiring/ethernet, line in.restatred and replaced router several timesyes, we have poor internet always.  Can someone recommend a company who makes good speakers that work just with Bluetooth and do not need the Internet? Sonos has been a rather painful waste of money and time. Thank you!

Are there any known issues with connectivity to Samsung QLED TVs? If yes, are they fixable?

Hi All, I have just bought the Arc, Sub and two One’s for the surrounds. I am trying to connect to a old TV (I am saving for a new one next year with eArc). The TV is a Pioneer PDP-LX508D, so was planning on using the optical out into the Arc.  However… it seems that: "The Pioneer PDP-508D only has the capability to send audio from it's own internal tuner over optical and is incapable of carrying audio over from any external sources" I don’t use any of the internal tuners - so there is no optical signal being sent from the TV for any of the inputs I use it for. :-( Any ideas on how to get this working (that does not involve me buying a new TV now!) Thanks. 

I have just purchased an Arc and set it up on its own S2 system , whilst leaving all my other speakers on my old S1 system.  I know have an issue with my harmony ultimate remote where it scans for the Sonos system and allows you to control it. The issue is that the harmony finds the old S1 system and not the new S2 system.  is it possible to rename the Sonos system so they appear as separate systems when the harmony searches for them, then I should be able to select my arc when setting up the harmony ?  

Hello guysLet me explain my setupLg OLED 4K Sonos Arc connecred to the TV by HDMI eARCXBOX Series X by HDMI to TV. The consolé recognizes the 4K TV . I download the dolby app to bring abre to select Dolby Atmos as audio firmat using bitstreamI heard that XBOX was abre to convert on the fly DTS to Dolby Atmos. If I put a game or movie with DTS,  I can't hear anything . If I do the same in my PS5, I have no issues. I mean , I dont get Atmos , but Dolby surround.  How should I setup the audio outout in the consolé when the bluray or game has DTS ?

My iTunes Library is massive - if I try to add it to Sonos it spends ages cataloguing it then, ultimately, I cannot see anything in it. It’s just blank when I select it.However, most of my iTunes library is available on Deezer and Spotify anyway, so I only need a few albums in my iTunes library to listen to on Sonos. I created a second iTunes library with just a few albums in it (you can see how here) and tried to import this into Sonos. But it just automatically imports my standard iTunes library. Very annoying. Especially s there is no way to cancel the process and I have to wait hours for it to unsuccessfully finish so I can have another go. Does anyone know how to not import the default iTunes library and instead select the location?Many thanks.