Advanced setups

Hi all, My boss has a Sonos system here at the office and another at home. It works great at his house, at the office...not so much. I would say once a week or so the whole system disconnects, it won't play music at all, the music cuts out, groups are disbanded, etc. Just all sorts of problems. He came to me today and is tired of it, he wants to look at getting a wired speaker setup. I've worked with phone support each time it goes down and they always get it back up, but it's a lot of time that I could be working on other things (I am only part time here). Plus I know he is frustrated. My reason for this topic is, I am upgrading the wireless AP's this weekend and thought it might be a good chance to redo the whole Sonos setup with what I think I've learned from my multiple calls with phone support. I told him to wait until I make changes to see if it improves before making a decision on a new system. Here is our equipment. We have an ISP managed Cisco ASA-5516X fire

Hello Sonos Community! My Sonos volume is very low when I use it to play audio from my Projector, and I have trouble hearing it because it's so low. Here's the situation: I have a Sonos Play 1 and Play 5. I have the Play 5 (old model) hooked up to a BENQ Projector via a Mediabridge 3.5mm Male To Male Stereo Audio Cable. I use Chromecast in order to have my projector show what's on my computer screen. However, even when I have the volume turned all the way up (on all devices) the volume is super low (a lot lower than when I use my Sonos to directly play Spotify music). Can someone please provide help on what I can do to fix this? Sorry that I'm not a super techy person, and thanks so, so much for the help! Summary: Computer Chromecasts to Projector + Projector connected to Sonos Play:5 via Audio Cable = Can barely hear Sonos even when everything is at full volume Max

Hi, I have a pair of Sonos One with Sub. I want to add an additional Play5 to this „room“. Is it possible? I know how to group them, but that does not help when I use Apple Music App (because there is no group for Airplay) and i have to choose both speakers every time I play music with this app. Another problem with the group is, that the volume button on the devices will not control the whole group.

I have two routers set up to my home network, one for the front and back of my house. I also have a Sonos in the front and in the back. What I’m trying to do is have the Sonos linked but can’t get it to work b/c the Sonos at one location is connected to that router correspondingly and will only display which ever Sonos is on said router but not the other although they are on the same network. What is the fix?

Using Sonosnet and ethernet connected players. I added my WiFi credentials, that didn't help, so I reset and removed my WiFi credentials. I am using an ethernet connected Boost, a Playbar, and a few Connects connected by ethernet around the house, the rest of the players are wirelessly connected and in About My Sonos, each device indicates WM: 0. Have given each Sonos device a DHCP reservation on the router. Restarting the router sometimes helps for awhile. Toggling the Sonosnet channel from 1 to 6 to 11 sometimes helps for awhile but not for long. Streaming from TIDAL performs the worst, streaming from my own music library performs better. I'm using Xfinity gigabit internet service and have two wireless access points in a small house and moving around the house I get 400Mbps WiFi download speeds. Sonos Diagnostics code 1281242672 . Thanks for any assistance.

Hi, I am planning to give my Sonos One to a friend of mine. So what I would like to do is 1) delete my info from the device and 2) set up the Sonos One again in his network and with his Sonos account. How can I do that??

I need to update some of my switches, to prevent Network Storms. Would it work, if I connect all my Sonos Wired devices into an single un-managed switch, and then connect that switch, into a managed switch, and set the one port on the managed switch for STP? Thoughts. Thanks

I have a Play:3, which is past its warranty. I dismantled it to find it has the well documented fault with a blown capacitor. However, there is also damage also to one of the surface mount diodes. I have sourced some new capacitors to replace those, however I am not sure what spec this diode is, and wondered whether any of you have had the same issue and if any solution was found? It appears to be D307, and has a code of AN 97 printed on it. As far as I can see, I will have to bridge the track to wherever the diode's anode was connected. Any advice would be greatly appreciated, as I cannot find a schematic or circuit diagram anywhere, and the board is quite badly charred!! :)

My Verizon Fios Network extender is right near my Sonos system and it is cloned from the Router, also has a Coax cable connected. Would this be a good option to connect the BOOST ti reduce droputs due to distance from router

I am interested in purchasing a Time Capsule to backup a customer's iTunes library. If I am not mistaken the Time Machine backup on the time Capsule is encrypted and compressed. Can Sonos read the music on the Time Capsule without the use of any laptop or iMac running?

Hi, I watched the Youtube video explaining the steps to setup a Connect with an Elite compatible receivers. I understand in the steps that you have to select the Elite zones you want the music (main - zone2 - zone3) QUESTION: If i need main and zone2, will it show in the Sonos app as two different zones that i could power on independently, like if i had two Play Ones? I don't need to play different music because it is an open erea but i want to be sure that i can select the main or the zone2 or both (group) exactly the same way it already works with Sonos gears. Want to avoid using Pioneer app to power on zones. Thanks,

I have a dock and iPod classic running in a multi room setup (3 Connects + Playbar and some scattered :1s). When the dock stops working (as per 9/13/18 Sonos email), I guess I’ll hook it into a Connect via the line in. A few questions for this with more knowledge than me (everyone). I’ll lose visibility of what’s playing and control of the iPod through the software? Does it matter which Connect gets the Line In? All will be able to see it? If I dock the iPod in a DAC bypass dock (Onkyo), run the digital out to a stand-alone DAC, then DAC-out to the Connect, am I just D-A-D-Aing the signal? (I don’t want to get into a DAC debate here, that’s well covered elsewhere, please, I’m just trying to understand the signal path). Don’t see any reason to convert the signal multiple times...but I do like to bypass the internal DAC in the Classic. Sorry for the newbie questions, help appreciated.

Hello, I recently purchased two play 1 speakers and so far they’re great. One is placed in the living area and one is in the bedroom. They’re set up as standard connecting to my WiFi router. The WiFi is kinda spotty in the bedroom. The Sonos speaker in there connects to the network 90% of the time. The problem comes when I try to use the Sonos app and my phone and other devices can’t stay connected to the network therefore I can’t control the speaker. I had tried a powerline wifi extender by TP Link and mirrored the SSID and password however the app would frequently lose connection to the speaker when on the extended network. I know this isn’t a supported setup so no wonder it didn’t work. I was looking at mesh WiFi systems. Would this work to extend the WiFi to the bedroom so I can access the sonos app? (presumably boosting the signal to the sonos as well for the odd time it drops off the network) I’d like to avoid getting a Sonos Boost as the connection between the ro

I received a phishing email after I started using Radio by TuneIn through the Sonos app. It stated I had a trial for 1 week and then I would be charged $34.99 per month. When I clicked on the review/Cancel link, it asked me to log into my Apple ID. Then it stated I had to Unlock my account, and then enter all kinds of information from SSN to driver license, mother's maiden name, you name it. Has anyone else experienced this? I reported this to Apple. But I feel this is a Sonos problem.

Just wanted to know what most people router settings is. I recently opened advanced wireless settings on my router and most items were set to automatic. Request you guys to post a screenshot of your advanced wireless settings so I can sync mine. I use a D-Link dsl g225. I browsed all its settings and nowhere did it show it has STP features. I heard most people talking about how the STP feature helps with smooth playback.

I ma not able to configure my stystem to control the volume of the Playbar using either the Uverse Remote or the 2018 LG Magic Remote. I have seen the response that the 2018 Magic remote does not have IR capability and that the only solution is to invest in a Sonos beam system. Seems like a very expensive solution after already investing in the Sonos Playbar. Surely there is some more economical solution then starting over. Please give me some options... is their a Sonos product that can take the non-optical audio output from the TV which is volume controlled and send it to the Playbar and Base?

I have a Ubiquiti Unifi setup at home with multiple VLANs and wireless networks. All of my Sonos speakers are connected to the IoT wireless network (which in turn is associated with the IoT VLAN). My phone and laptop are on another wireless network, called Home (which is connected to the main LAN). I have firewall rules in place to block cross-VLAN communication but I do allow devices on the Home LAN to communicate with the IoT VLAN (the connection has to initiate on the Home LAN). Obviously when I open the Sonos app on my phone, it can't find any devices until I connect my phone to the IoT wireless network. Is there any way for me to get this working so that I can use the Sonos controller on the Home wireless network with the Sonos equipment on the IoT wireless network?

I am currently in the process of building a house and am planning on using 8+ Sonos Amps to power my in-ceiling and outdoor speakers. I will also have Playbars on all of the TV's in the house. All amps will be housed in a rack in the basement and will be powering Monitor Audio C265IDC speakers in the following "rooms" - Kitchen (2 speakers) - Morning Room (2 speakers) - Library (2 speakers) - Dining Room (2 speakers) - Basement Bar Area (2 speakers) - Basement Open Area (4 speakers) - Basement Play Room (2 speakers) - Outdoor Patio (4 speakers TBD) Does anyone else have any similar plans?

763076029 Spotify music skips to next song before it ends

Is there a way of playing whatever is playing on my android phone, via my sonos system? Things like BBC iplayer, bbc podcasts, youtube? Loads of radio shows just aren't available on stitcher or the radio section. Cheers Chris

I am trying to connect Oticon TV adapter 3.0 (Hardware wireless Hearing assistant) to Sonos Playbar while attached to my TV SONY XBR930. Oticon can connect to components by either TOSLINK (Optical Audio, RCA, and Mini jack adapter to RCA. I am unable to get both Oticon to feed hearing aids while Sonos plays at the same time. Anybody?

Is it possible to produce mono sound (not stereo) from a Connect Amp? My house has existing in wall/ceiling speakers without dual voice coils, and one speaker per room is my situation. So in stereo, either the Lt or Rt channel would only be broadcast to that room.

The M3U playlist standard is a wonderful way to create lists of your favorite music to play on your mp3 device. However, it gets maddening when you have multiple devices sharing the same mp3 library. Why don’t all devices use a standard way to implement the playlist? Here is what I am referring to: I use Winamp to create and edit playlists on a Windows 7 machine. The mp3 files are all stored on a NAS server mapped to drive M on the Windows machine. This server is also host to Logitech Squeezebox Server, and is UPnP which provides the interface for my Sonos devices. Added to that I own a Cadillac with a CUE system that uses an exact copy of my mp3 directory on the NAS server but it is stored on a flash drive. Each system (Squeezebox, Sonos, CUE and Winamp) has their own requirements for the pathname in the m3u playlists. To specify, Winamp prefixes everything with “M:\” where M: is the Windows drive letter mapped to the NAS music directory. Squeezebox requires the path to h

I have a 15 Zone Set up where the majority of devices are Hardwired with the Wireless turned off. I had a Playbar also Hardwired with wireless on which was connecting wirelessly to the 2 play 1 rears and also the other wireless devices on my network. Problem I have been having is Network Storms that render my entire wired network useless until I remove the Playbar from the equation meaning none of the other wireless devices work. The Wireless system is SonosNet so am trying to change it to connect to my home wifi but when I go to Settings, Advanced settings, Wireless setup and connect one of the remaining wireless devices to an Ethernet cable and therefore the Network the players become available but I get the following message Alternative Setup, there is a problem configuring Sonos to work on your Wireless network. you will need a boost or a speaker permanently connected to your Router to use your Sonos system This is with the Wireless device connected via Ethernet , any idea

Set up a “sound system” at the office here and in purchased a Sonos Connect and 4 Sonos play:ones (Note: connecting directly to the router/modem is NOT an option at the office) Current set up is: iPad running the Sonos app > to the Sonos connect > transmitting to the 4 Sonos:ones across the office The usualproblem: 1) occasionally one of the speakers will drop off the WiFi at random 2) any time the app gets updated we’ve got to go around and re-add the speakers and connect to through the Sonos app, as if the updates kick off the speakers. The current problem: while attempting to re-add the speakers/connect to continue the service nothing adds the speakers will do their usual thing, the green light appears and when the two buttons are held down and the chime is sound, the green light goes to either a solid red/orange or a flashing red/orange led Help would be very much appreciated - thank you