Dead Play:5 need schematics or tips

I have two broken Play:5 units and when i check the “68b” resistor on them one reads 4.5 kOhm and the other one reads 12 kOhm, could the one that reads 12 kOhm create the problem you describe @timc995 ?

Hi Dr_Phil.

Yes, if that resistor isn’t reading 4.5k, it will definitely affect the voltages.  I would say though, it is rare in my experience for a failure like that.  Resistors usually short out entirely, or blow open.  Landing somewhere in the middle (like 12k) is unusual.  It could be that the chip is actually ‘open’, but you are getting some other resistance measurement from the circuit itself.

I lost my info where I reverse engineered that part of the circuit, but the usual way that it works is that there is a reference voltage, and a feedback loop.  A simple voltage divider is made on the output voltages, and that voltage is compared to the reference voltage.  Often it is something like Vout=Vref*(1+V1/V2).  Vref would depend on a chosen reference voltage elsewhere on the board, and the circuit designer chooses V1 and V2 to get the desired output.  SO… If you are getting 12k instead of 4.5V, then your circuit is probably generating something like 5v/10v, instead of the required 12v/24v.

If you have a voltmeter, you can check what’s happening to the output voltages.  Also, you would ideally test that bad chip after removing it from the circuit, but these are so small that it may be impossible to remove it without damaging it.

Great, i will try to measure the voltage and see if the result could guide me.

Short circuit Player 5.

Dr Phil, your latest Post. Sorry I can’t find a “New Post” button on this page. Have to ride on yours.

Dead Player 5. Blown fuse. Installed larger fuse - tripped kitchen supply. Tested 8ohms across mains input. De-soldered/pulled one leg of the 2nd right-hand green filter coil (facing mains plug). Short cct now moved to bridge-rectifier. Meaning: replace the blown fuse but don’t waste time checking onward components to rectifier. It’s the 4-pin big black rectangular bastard behind the fat capacitor to the right.

Do not be dissuaded, have patients. Detach hot-glued components with drips of Isopropyl Alcohol bit by bit with screwdriver, easy-peasy. Firstly remove fat capacitor (notice white -ve polarity position). Second: the 4 rectifier legs. High class Sonos pcb (board) needs high temp narrow soldering iron bit. De-soldering braid and solder flux if you have it. Medium screwdriver leverage of component against board.

Yes, ESR tested both fat caps OK. Others too. Gonna replace bridge rectifier and fat caps. Awaiting delivery. And Comments / advice.

Short-circuit Player 5

Dead Player 5. Blown fuse. Installed larger fuse - tripped kitchen power supply. Tested 8ohms across mains input. De-soldered/pulled one leg of the 2nd right-hand green filter coil (facing mains plug). Short cct now moved to bridge-rectifier. Meaning: replace the blown fuse (small brown cylinder behind power input socket) but don’t waste time checking onward components to rectifier. It’s the 4-pin big black rectangular bastard behind first fat capacitor to the right of power input socket. 

Do not be dissuaded, have patients. Detach hot-glue from components with drips of Isopropyl Alcohol bit-by-bit with screwdriver, easy-peasy. Firstly remove fat capacitor (notice white -ve polarity position). Second: the 4 rectifier legs. High class Sonos pcb (board) needs high temp narrow soldering iron bit.

Use de-soldering braid and solder flux if you have it. Medium screwdriver leverage of component against board.

Yes, ESR tested both fat caps OK. Others too. Gonna replace bridge rectifier and fat caps. Awaiting delivery and, your Comments / advice.

It's just a damn psu. 
Strange that none of you 'tronics boffins have risen to the challenge of reverse engineering the Play 5 psu schematics.
A hand-drawn scribbled diagram, that ain't gonna offend our masters. SONOS might even
appreciate the good-will benefit of allowing it in these pages. Otherwise we're all still buzzing around like flies circling meat in plastic film, cursing their product brand telling others to avoid it.

Hi,

Thought I would add some information to this thread since it helped me resurrect a dead play 5 gen 1.

A few months ago my father informed me that one of his two play 5 speakers was completely dead. After browsing the internet we found that the fuse and rectifier could be possible causes. We opened the speaker and found that fuse was still intact. Some more browsing led us to this thread with other possible causes for a dead speaker. None of the earlier mentioned resistors etc. seemed to be the issue in our unit. Then after randomly measuring resistors with a multimeter I found R27793 near one of the big capacitors being open. 1203 is printed on the resistor and according to this page that means 120 kΩ.

A new 120 kΩ resistor was then soldered to the board and now the speaker is working again. 

Hopefully this can be of some help if someone else would have the same issue. 

I just had a success fixing a dead play:5 so thought I’d share it.  The device would not boot up. When I measured the voltage driving the PWM chip, I found it was ramping slowly from 7-8V up to about 19V, then dropping back to 7-8V and repeating.  The frequency of this was about 3-4 seconds.

I found a 10 ohm resistor that was open (R27797).  I replaced it with another 10 ohm and the device now works.  I only had a much much larger wattage resistor, but it got the job done.  Images are attached.

I had some other dead boards with the exact same ramping of voltage.  Unfortunately when I checked them, none of them had the same failure.  Hopefully this can help someone else though!

 

Thanks Tim,

Replacing this resistor and a 120k resistor near the ac filters fixed my dead play 5.

Tom

Hi guys,

can someone tell me, what parts are the following and what I need to replace?

R27817

C27852

C27855

They are burned.

100ohm

0.1nF（maybe）

2.9nF（maybe）