Contributor I

Dead Play:5 need schematics or tips

208 replies
59400 views

Hi

Play:5, manufacturing date sometime around 2009, is completely dead. No light in LED.

Found several cases of this online, but no solutions.

Does anyone have any knowledge about the problem, og better yet, schematics..

I mainly suspect problem in switch mode power supply. Have only done very basic measuring, but I find 220VAC on primary side, no power on secondary side. I think about ordering a mosfet, and/or a diode I suspect, but if I had schematics I could do some more pinpointing..

This topic has been closed for further comments. You can use the search bar to find a similar topic, or create a new one by clicking Create Topic at the top of the page.

Show previous replies

D

dvd4me

Contributor I

For me the voltage on that pin grows slowly, then falls to 5-10v or so, then starts climbing again and repeating the cycle. Even when I inject 13V to that spot from a bench supply it doesn’t help.

Typical SMPS supplies switches a high voltage via a MOSFET into the primary side of the transformer. That switching is controlled by the 2QS02G. I tried replacing it with no luck, and couldn’t find anything else off around it. What I did find though, was that the high voltage was 160V. I measured it as marked in the attached image. This is a problem for me, since when I measured a known good device, the voltage was 274V. The 160V seems to just be the rectified AC, and is not boosted to 274. I can’t figure out the mechanism that is causing the 274V to be produced, so am stumped. Any ideas?

Hello,

From what I understand now, your board does not start, when the voltage on 2QS02 goes up to 20 and the chip powers on, there must be an error that makes the chip to shut down immediately, thus not self-sustaining to 13V. The power on the caps is simple rectified by the bridge, try to measure on another type of switch power supply. Me I got-it from 110V AC so it goes around that 160V I believe ( I did not wrote down the value. Yours if it is 220VAC so it might be 274 or a bit higher rectified. Maybe your rectifier bridge is broken ( one diode is interrupted, so it’s half of the voltage. This driver chip checks for the voltage, locks for undervoltage. The rectifier is your problem. Check for that.

Regards

I don't think that’s right. My input is 113V, and the rectifier is producing 160V (as expected … ie: 113*1.414). If I had 220V, then I would expect to see 320V coming from the rectifier.

The 274V that I measured was from a working unit… not the one that doesn’t work. It could be that when the system is oscillating properly, my meter is getting a bad reading due to the high frequencies present and some kind of induced voltage into the supply. SMPS oscillators often oscillate well above 100kz, and perhaps my meter isn’t giving an accurate measurement at this kind of frequency. If my broken board isn’t oscillating, I’m just getting the 60hz rectified output, and hence the 160V.

I just checked for the undervoltage condition. According to the datasheet, there is a resistor divider network. That seems to be set with Rvins1=1.5M, and Rvin2=20k. With the internal Vref of 1.25V, the shutoff voltage would be 95V (1.25*(1520000/20000)). I never see my rectifier output drop below 160V so I don’t think that’s the problem.

I think that my next step may be to check for an overload condition. The output on the low voltage side of the transformer is fed through a dual inductor. I may try to remove that and see if that stabilizes the input.

Yes, you are right I was not right… Got carried away with the 220V possibility.. It must be then an overload condition somewhere since the under voltage part is fine. The excessive current detection is thru one of the vertical big resistors I believe. It sucks there is no schematic to do precise measurements, maybe it’s value changed… Hope you will find the cause of this and let us know the fix for the future.

Regards

T

Timc_ tim_c

Contributor I

Hi there,

My sonos play 5 power board had some overvoltage and some parts are blown.

I managed to bring it back to life bij mounting a new PCB fuse3.15A and 2 capacitors 47K275V-X2

2 other components are broken and i cant determine what type they where.

Its about TH27700 at the inlet AC current side, i asume this is a NTC or PTC.

Also MOV27700 is broken, this should be a varistor after the first filter coils.

Does anyone know the partnumbers of these 2 components? You would realy help me out.

Thnx a lot!

The MOV27700 varistor is marked “TVR14471*”. TH27700 is an NTC thermistor “SCK 054”.

Good luck!

T

Timc_ tim_c

Contributor I

Yes, you are right I was not right… Got carried away with the 220V possibility.. It must be then an overload condition somewhere since the under voltage part is fine. The excessive current detection is thru one of the vertical big resistors I believe. It sucks there is no schematic to do precise measurements, maybe it’s value changed… Hope you will find the cause of this and let us know the fix for the future.

Regards

I agree that it could be an overload problem. I removed the triple-inductor that sits between the power supply and the actual Sonos. With this out, the device still cycles power, which tells me that the problem is in the power supply rather than downstream.

So now I guess I’ll have to measure everything and compare to the working unit that I have. I did check the large resistors and all the diodes a while ago with no luck. There seems to be a lot of transistors at the front end of this supply… not sure what that’s all for given the sample schematic for the 2QSxxx doesn’t have them.

Measuring the output of the supply (on a working play:5), I see that it provides 12V and 24V supplies. That's helpful to know… If nothing else works, then I can just install an entirely new AC/DC supply - there seems to be lots of room inside the speaker. I did this with a play:1 once and it worked great.

D

DavidSchr

Lyricist I

Hi there,

My sonos play 5 power board had some overvoltage and some parts are blown.

I managed to bring it back to life bij mounting a new PCB fuse3.15A and 2 capacitors 47K275V-X2

2 other components are broken and i cant determine what type they where.

Its about TH27700 at the inlet AC current side, i asume this is a NTC or PTC.

Also MOV27700 is broken, this should be a varistor after the first filter coils.

Does anyone know the partnumbers of these 2 components? You would realy help me out.

Thnx a lot!

The MOV27700 varistor is marked “TVR14471*”. TH27700 is an NTC thermistor “SCK 054”.

Good luck!

Thanx a lot Tim! Tomorrow i!ll go shopping ;-)

J

Jywl12

Lyricist III

Here is the best I’ve found on debugging Sonos Play:5 hardware issues:

https://sites.google.com/site/sonosdebug/power-topology

The author includes reverse-engineered information about jtag, serial port, connector, and the power supply (including a very helpful partial circuit diagram)!

There is nothing about the actual power amp. I have seen a few of these go bad and had only marginal success fixing them. One finding I did have was that a unit with missing bass had some of the driver ICs not having power. It turned out that some of the internal traces had burned out between the driver chips. I jumpered all of the power pins of the 6 ICs together (and all of the grounds too, for good measure), and it solved the problem.

If you have NO sound from the amplifier, then check the biases identified on the schematic and make sure that all of them (12v, 3.3V, 11.1V, 5V) are working.

Hi Tim,

Is your play 5 having issue of very soft volume? Then you jumpered the traces and that fixed it?

Hi. Sorry for the late response. I was locked out… Can't log in

The problem that I had was that of the 5 speakers, some were working and others were not. I found that some of the driver chips did not have power and was able to add power to them… after which it all worked again. Here is a picture of what I jumpered. I think that this was not the complete job… but you should get the idea from here.

Thanks Tim. Unfortunately my play 5 issue is not the same issue. All the pins have 5V to it. Headphone out is working fine, just the all speakers have a very faint sound.

J

Jywl12

Lyricist III

Last resort is to add in a class D amp to it. Not ideal at all, but at least, sound is back.

T

Timc_ tim_c

Contributor I

Last resort is to add in a class D amp to it. Not ideal at all, but at least, sound is back.

There are a fair number of play:5 units for sale on ebay from time to time - many of which are in recycle mode. If you pick one of those up, the power/audio board is often in good working condition, and you can swap that into your unit. There’s a bit of risk to this, as the play:5 may have had an audio problem before it was bricked, but perhaps the seller can tell you the history, or you can take a bet on the purchase.

M

mesahin

Lyricist II

Yes, you are right I was not right… Got carried away with the 220V possibility.. It must be then an overload condition somewhere since the under voltage part is fine. The excessive current detection is thru one of the vertical big resistors I believe. It sucks there is no schematic to do precise measurements, maybe it’s value changed… Hope you will find the cause of this and let us know the fix for the future.

Regards

I agree that it could be an overload problem. I removed the triple-inductor that sits between the power supply and the actual Sonos. With this out, the device still cycles power, which tells me that the problem is in the power supply rather than downstream.

So now I guess I’ll have to measure everything and compare to the working unit that I have. I did check the large resistors and all the diodes a while ago with no luck. There seems to be a lot of transistors at the front end of this supply… not sure what that’s all for given the sample schematic for the 2QSxxx doesn’t have them.

Measuring the output of the supply (on a working play:5), I see that it provides 12V and 24V supplies. That's helpful to know… If nothing else works, then I can just install an entirely new AC/DC supply - there seems to be lots of room inside the speaker. I did this with a play:1 once and it worked great.

Hi,

how much power needs play5? I found a power supply. If it is fits (physical and electrical) I will buy and install it.

Size: 16 * 10 * 4cm

Can you tell me which pins should I connect 24 and 12 volt in play5 mainboard?

This one is at amazon.de 14€, I think it is fair price.

B

BarkleyRooster

Lyricist I

Last resort is to add in a class D amp to it. Not ideal at all, but at least, sound is back.

How was the sound out of that class D Amp?

If decent, what brand model, and where did you connect? It looks like directly off of the wifi/controller board?

J

Jywl12

Lyricist III

Last resort is to add in a class D amp to it. Not ideal at all, but at least, sound is back.

How was the sound out of that class D Amp?

If decent, what brand model, and where did you connect? It looks like directly off of the wifi/controller board?

At low volume, I can hear the static noises. That will go away when I increase the volume. I got it from AliExpress.
Running at 12V and I may try to use 24V if that helps on the static. The connection is to the headphone out on the wifi board. Hope that helps.

Show more replies

Sign up

Login to the community