Dead Play:5 need schematics or tips

That power supply looks like it should work.  I don’t know what the maximum rated power of the Play:5 is, but that one looks like 70 Watts… For me that’s more than enough volume.

As far as connections… There is a triple inductor between the power supply and the downstream electronics.  The purpose of that inductor is to filter noise.  You could hook up to either side of the inductor (since your power supply will have filtering in it), but I would hook up to the inductor on the power supply side.  This way, the outputs from your supply will pass through the inductor and be filtered.  I’ve annotated the 12V, GND, and 24V in the attached image.

There is a small chance that the problem with the power supply circuit will prevent just adding power to the board.  In this case, you would need to separate the built-in power supply from the downstream components.  I would do that by just removing the inductor (desolder it, or cut the legs of it off and remove it).  If you do this, then you will need to connect to the three connection points directly above the ones that I marked (the order is the same as I labelled).

Good luck!

The space is pretty tight inside the play5. I don’t think you can fit in the power supply. 

True.  Another option is to have the replacement power supply in a separate enclosure with just the low voltage 12v/12v fed in through a small hold in the back.  The supply can be hidden quite far away from the speaker, if that's what your setup requires.

Yet another option…

24v ‘brick’ power supply… https://www.amazon.com/JOVNO-100-240V-Transformer-Converter-5-5x2-5mm/dp/B0875ZSKGR

And this installed inside the enclosure: https://www.amazon.com/EPBOWPT-Converter-Regulator-Voltage-Transformer/dp/B07V6X6L89

Is there any problem if use a laptop adapter 20V instead of 24V input? I have some adapters here and don’t want to buy any extras. 

A definite maybe.

1. You need to worry about wattage as much as voltage.  You would want to use a supply with enough wattage.  95% of music I play is not so loud that I can’t have a conversation around it… That kind of level would be fine with 20 watts.  I just looked at a Lenovo laptop adapter.  It is marked output 20V 2.25A.  That works out to 20*2.25=45 watts (before anyone jumps in to say this isn’t right -- it’s close enough for this conversation).  Most laptop adapters should have enough wattage to work
2. Most amplifiers will operate with a range of input voltages.  You may get clipping or dropouts if you try to turn the volume up to a point beyond what the power supply can manage.  Below that level it would work ok.  If something is designed to work with 24V, and you feed it 20V, then you can expect a maximum output wattage of about 70% of the designed output.  (This is calculated as (20/24)^2 ).
3. Sonos is not necessarily “most amplifiers”.  I have done a ton of work with ZP120 repairs.  Those operate with several internal voltages.  In particular, the audio section works at about 15 volts, until you turn the volume up... then a 36 Volt circuit comes on.  The ZP120 has a voltage sensing circuit in it, and if the 36V circuit does not activate properly, it reports an error and ramps the volume down to about 10%.  My experience is that this circuit must be 36V -- not 30V and not even 40V.
4. I don’t know if the Play:5 has the same kind of voltage detection as the ZP120 or not.  I was once able to disable the voltage sensing circuit in a ZP120 and drive it with a different voltage, but it isn’t really a practical fix for the ZP120, let along the Play:5

So the upshot is that you won’t damage anything by hooking it to a 12V and 20V supply (instead of 12V and 24V).  The worst is that it doesn’t work (but it won’t do any permanent damage)

Some more on wattage…

Sonos speaker wattages are not (as far as I know) published.  It’s also hard to reverse engineer, since it is not driving 1 or two simple speakers.  There are 5 separate amplifier circuits for the 5 speakers.  I have measured the 5 speakers, and they seem to be 7 ohm tweeters, 3 ohm mids, and 3.6 ohm bass.  There is also some crossover and equalizer circuitry.  If I make some very coarse assumptions, then I calculate a maximum wattage of 200 Watts.  Paring this back for crossovers, as well as frequency impedance curves, I’d be surprised if a 70 Watt supply wasn’t more than sufficient.  (and if you’re using a 20 Volt supply, then apply the above 70%, and you’d be ok with a 50 watt adapter).  This seems to me to be more than reasonable from another angle… when I look at the circuitry of the power supply, it ‘seems’ to match these kinds of numbers based on its physical size.

Folks, I see some questions regarding Play 5 with low sound at max volume. I just created another post with a fix for this issue.

Fix for Play 5 with low volume

Im going to piggyback onto this discussion to see if someone can help me out.

I have a Power supply issue with an issue on the switching side.

The unit has no power. 

Replaced most of the power side caps, rectifier, fuse, FET IC Driver, FET, (Also smt 120K resistor near the rectifier was blown.)

I feel like im close, but I have this problem where the voltage starts at 5v ramps up to 15v and then bumps back down to 5v to repeat the process.  Thought maybe a diode, but I cant find it.

When i remove the little 25v 100uf Cap between the two big filtering caps, the fluctuation goes away.  Still get no power though.

 

Any Thoughts?

 

Check the resistor R27825, this is 10Ohm I believe. Normally not visible due to the extensive glue on the board. I had a similar case where there was no power at all. I didn't check in detail but I think this resistor is part of a control loop. Another issue where replacing a single resistor restores services.

Here is the best I’ve found on debugging Sonos Play:5 hardware issues:

https://sites.google.com/site/sonosdebug/power-topology

The author includes reverse-engineered information about jtag, serial port, connector, and the power supply (including a very helpful partial circuit diagram)!

There is nothing about the actual power amp.  I have seen a few of these go bad and had only marginal success fixing them.  One finding I did have was that a unit with missing bass had some of the driver ICs not having power.  It turned out that some of the internal traces had burned out between the driver chips.  I jumpered all of the power pins of the 6 ICs together (and all of the grounds too, for good measure), and it solved the problem.

If you have NO sound from the amplifier, then check the biases identified on the schematic and make sure that all of them (12v, 3.3V, 11.1V, 5V) are working.

Hi Tim,

Is your play 5 having issue of very soft volume? Then you jumpered the traces and that fixed it?

 

Hi.  Sorry for the late response.  I was locked out… Can't log in

The problem that I had was that of the 5 speakers, some were working and others were not.  I found that some of the driver chips did not have power and was able to add power to them… after which it all worked again.  Here is a picture of what I jumpered.  I think that this was not the complete job… but you should get the idea from here.

 

Thanks Tim. Unfortunately my play 5 issue is not the same issue. All the pins have 5V to it. Headphone out is working fine, just the all speakers have a very faint sound. 
 

 

Faint sound at max volume? Check this.

God news my sonos Play 5 sings


I have changed the small chip that controls the mosfet
2QS02G
I also changed the rectifier MBR20150TC, but I do not thing it was defect. I broke it during the removal. I had to take it out to read the type. And therefore had to install a new one.

also changed 5 pcs electrolytic capacitors 820uf 35V

 

Hello, I happen to have a Gen 1 with similar power issue, I see on your picture you changed the chip.

In my case there is no power on the pin 7 of the small driver IC. I cannot figure out from where it gets the power. I manually power the chip with an external 12 V on that capacitor you solder the blue wire. And the power gets back alive! But it’s not self sustaining and as soon as I remove the external Vcc for the IC it goes back to silence. There must be a component I cannot see on the pcb to supply power to the IC.  The small cap 100uF 25V has a connection with the power of the driver IC but I cannot figure-it out. Any ideas? Thanks

Check this resistor circled in red, R27825. Should be 10 Ohm. In one of my Play 5's it died. Another example of a cheap part killing an expensive speaker