Repair ZP120

… use the cheat sheet I made above and see if you have any of the bias converter working.
There was another guy on here with the same symptom as you and I think he gave up. Not sure what causes that.

I finally got back to this -- checked all the DC voltages and they all match your reference. Even with my fluke truerms I didn't validate the secondary but I am guessing I referenced to the wrong point. The DC busses all look OK.

I am thinking to pop off the shield can on the logic board to get at the UART. Any other thoughts? Still a solid white LED.

I went ahead and ordered 2 2DRAM parts since I don't know which is bad. Anyone tried this replacement? I might have to remove the shield. If not I'll remove the parts with hot air and then put the new ones down.

Never done this. Looking forward to your results!

Well, I was able to change the DRAM out without much issue. I used kapton, some foil, and the hakko hot air rework. Then I cleaned the pads and put new parts down. Unfortunately, it did not fix it. That pretty much confirms that the issue is probably a cracked solder ball under the BGA, or head-in-pillow or some other similar type defect. I thought about putting it in the xray but it is so hard to see some of these defects and regardless of what I found, it was not repairable.

That's a bummer. Which Hakko do you use? I need a hot air tool. Crazy range in prices.
Remind me what your Amp was doing, or how it was failing?

I use the hakko 851 -- it is one of their pricier ones. I have nothing to compare it to, because it is all I have ever used. My amp was the blinking white light. After debug I found that it was stuck in the bootloader due to the dram memory test failing.

I've got an Connect:Amp that I bought for parts and trying to repair. 10 Ohm resistor totally burned up and charged the board. Replaced that, the fuse, the PWM and a cap that was puffing at the top. I've got voltage on the PWM but nothing on the secondary side at all. I've pulled D16016 and it gives me continuity in both directions so first this is to replace that. Does anyone know the specs on this diode? 15V, 3A? What about the package type? Just need to order some from digikey.

Also, my CPU_GND and 36V GND test points are not buzzing out as shorted. Does this indicate there are other components blown on that side of the transformer? I get no voltages on that side of the transformer BUT I am using a crappy craftsman DMM that probably doesn't work for reading the fast switching voltages on this board.

Any help would be appreciated!

Thanks,
Dan

Hey Dan (danrowland),
Can you tell me more about that diode. I dont know them by refdes, more by function.
The CPU_GND and 36V GND are supposed to be tied together, in fact they often blow open and then the biases are not referenced to each other and nothing works.

So if you replaced the PWM and the 10 ohm, then are you getting high voltage on the PWM drain pin?
You should be getting 300ish V across the 2 big storage caps on the primary side. (if I remember correct). If you are not then you still have problems in the rectifier and storage section just before the bias PWM.

There is also an opto in the bias converter feedback that can blow, also the bias converters bias winding storage cap that can cause it to not work.

Hope this helps.

My Sonos ZP 100 amp just started acting up so I opened it up to find what appears to be a blown (missing) capacitor.

Trying to locate a replacement cap, but there are no markings on it.

It appears to be of type SMD MLC but that is all I can figure out.

Any guesses to a suitable replacement?

It measures approx. 3mm x 1mm  ..

Perhaps a 1206 ? 

 

There were some smart people posting in this thread. Hoping they are still around. 

There were some smart people posting in this thread. Hoping they are still around. 

I’ve read the entire thread but it’s been a bit unfortunately.

These photos show it a little bit better, there is like extra flux built up on that Solder point.

 

Never done this. Looking forward to your results!

 

Well, I was able to change the DRAM out without much issue. I used kapton, some foil, and the hakko hot air rework. Then I cleaned the pads and put new parts down. Unfortunately, it did not fix it. That pretty much confirms that the issue is probably a cracked solder ball under the BGA, or head-in-pillow or some other similar type defect. I thought about putting it in the xray but it is so hard to see some of these defects and regardless of what I found, it was not repairable.

 

Any chance you remember what dram you ordered? What amp do you have the CP 100 or the ZP 120? 

hi 

i have Sonos CONNECT:AMP ac190v  can on and working ac 230v cannot on not working can you help me

Add me to the list of non-working ZP-120, I’ve read through this thread many times trying to gather as much information as possible.At this point the unit, which I purchased at a swap meet, and had never been opened, will not power on. I did find a open 5A fuse but replacing it didn’t make any difference. There are no obvious damage and I have checked the usually diodes and transistors for shorts. Everything I am seeing for in circuit test looks good.

I think I may eventually map out the schematic and post here but for now I have traced the 110ac input all the way to the first bridge rectifier, from ground  the positive side of the rectifier is 60vdc and -60 to the negative side. Which seem reasonable..this is where I’m not to sure to go after this.

New Information:

I knew I was in the right place, L16004 is bad, the question is, can I source this part or is it custom? Maybe I can unwrap it a bit and re-insulate...

If no source does anyone have one from a parts unit? Thanks!