The amp has no power. Is there an internal fuse for this unit?
Has anyone taken one apart?
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I hope there is someone who can help me.
I have a ZP120 that flashes orange and white.
It will not play music, but if I hold the mute button for a few seconds, I can make it light dimmed white and I can play music.
But only for 2-3 minutes, then it pauses again and starts blinking orange and white again.
I have had it apart and there was a little corrosion on the print card, I have cleaned the corrosion and I could not see that something was wrong with the print.
Does anyone have an idea of what it can be?
I have almost the same problem as runecal. i have 6 amps that have gotten overvoltage. i have changed the 2 large caps. and a little thermistor and the fuse.
i bootes up and is connected to network, but when i tries to play music, it turns to blinking orange.
Couple of observations.
-if you are getting the 3.3,8ish,15 on the secondary then the bias converter PWM is working correctly.
-The reason you are seeing 0V on the transformers pins is because you are looking at AC with your meter set to DC. Those biases measured in the logic card say to me that the bias converter is running and the output is making its way to the logic card. Good sign
-I can only think of one thing left to do, and that is measure the output of the buck converter on the bottom of the logic card. There is a inductor with a (normally) yellow electrolytic cap. Solder a wire to the striped side of the cap and put the card back in and plug in. You can put the red lead on the wire and the black one to chassis. Should have 1.5V output.
Do you know much about reading serial (UART) from a computer? You may have noticed a 4 pin header under the EMI shield that you removed. There may be some diagnostic clues coming out of that serial headder.
The one I am working currently has a confirmed good power and riser boards and shows up in the Sonos app but when you push play I get orange and white blinking leds. Wanting to read that header and see if it can give me a clue as to why mine shizes the bed when I push play.
i have 4 amps, that goes flashing orange and white when play is pressed. have you got any luck on that issue???
The flashing orange on mine was due to a bad driver IC on the logic card. It is a 14 or so pin IC.
Mine would flash orange and white when i push play, the app keeps playing like nothing is wrong yet no sound from the amp.
You just drop in your logic card and your in business.
Message me at firstname.lastname@example.org if your interested.
do you have more info about that ic, model, pictures, where to buy
just to be sure, witch card is the logic board. the one with ethernet or the one rising from the powerboard
you wrote about a bad driver ic on the logic board, you succesfully have replaced.
just to be sure, witch card is the logic board. the one with ethernet or the one rising from the powerboard.
i have read this thread several times to figure out voltages and troubleshooting, and i think i got all the voltages right.
it sounds like i have the same problem you descibes.
it has been very interesting reading.
just need to get over the final bumb. i have to say i am noob at electronics. i am a electrician, so i hope i have a little understanding.
You probably have this fixed already, but if not the 74VLC06AD on mine was bad. You can download the datasheet and buy them from the link below. From the datasheet look at the pinouts and measure the outputs to ground and see if any are low resistance like 100 ohms or so. One of mine was, and that fixed my problem.
To anybody else, I have a repaired power board for sale on ebay. Let me know if you have trouble finding it.
It was one Hail Mary after another.
I noticed that when it was failing the preamp chip was never being un-muted. I followed the mute line from the pre-amp chip up through the riser card to that driver chip on the logic card. I pulled the datasheet and found that that pin was an output and its output was stuck at 100 ohms or something like that. The other outputs on that chip were fairly high resistance. Learned a lot, many months of four letter words though. Lol
Im in need of help with my zp120 ive been following this forum, built a dim bulb tester, found a short replaced the bridge rectifier and fuse, also found a small burn mark under the tranformer one of the copper wires came off so soldered it back into place, still no power, im getting no voltage on the secondary side.
There is also a 100 or 10 ohm 2W-ish axel leaded resistor in series with the primary, make sure that is not open.
Ive removed the tranformer with great difficulty one of the copper pads lifted but should be ok, I also changed the resistor aswell, the only thing im uncertain of where it is burnt I cant find the trace for where that pin connects to on the board(directly above D16016) I cant see any trace or cant find hear any beep to which component its in series with.
That is the primary side snubber. I would also check to make sure all 3 of the diodes in that area are all ok. I have had shorts there.
Did you find something blown open on the transformer? That mark on the top side suggests an open where the pin meets the magnetic wire.
Ive checked the transformer seems ok no open windings, is there any other checks i can do on tranformer before putting it back, also a diode d16010 reads open but when removed its ok i removed the resistor next to it and it no longer shows open, the resistance value shows fine on the DM it does show completely open in diode open is that correct.
The opto is the 4 pin ic that crosses the white boundary of isolation. The LED aside should read about a volt or so in slide mode, the bjt side should read a open. Do this testing with no power applied. I am pretty sure it’s the part circled in yellow. Pull the datasheet.
Just check one side at a time. LED side in diode mode, positive probe to the anode, negative probe to the cathode. Should be approximately 1V. Reversing the probes should be a open. On the output side of the opto, in continuity mode, positive probe to collector and negative to emitter, then reverse the probes and do the same.
You should get relatively high resistance (>1k ohm) in both directions. If both tests look good, then we have a good opto and the PWM is bad.