I have a 2020 LG CX TV with an Arc, 2 Ones and a sub that has been working fine for a year. Earlier today, the sound stopped coming through the Sonos speakers. I was able to get the sound to work through the speakers but the LG remote no longer controls the volume. I have tried the manual setup controls from other threads but it doesn’t work. Also, if I try to set up the TV in the Sonos app, I get an error that the Arc Mode is not connected but it is.
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Userlevel 1
+1
Hello,
I have exactly the same problem since I replaced my Panasonic plasma TV last weekend with an Oled LG65G2.
I will try the solutions suggested here. 🙏🏻
I had the same problem, I thought my remote was broken and bought a new one but it was useless. What a waste :(
I had already unplugged my Apple TV some time ago, so knew that couldn’t be the issue. And I had no devices connected to the TV…. Or did I….
On the end of my HDMI 3 cable, I had an Apple Mac HDMI to USB-C adapter. You know the ones… white… take Macbook port to HDMI, power and standard USB. No Macbook was connected. No “device”. Just an adapter...
Unplugged it a hey presto….
Thank you so much for posting this! Just had the same issue. What made things worse, everything seemed to be working if I had my MacBook connected to the USB-C adapter even if I wasn’t using it or that input. I’d remove the MacBook, forget about, have volume failures, go through the “power cycle everything” steps, and presto things worked again….until I attached and detached my MacBook again.
I just noticed it might be an issue with the combination of Apple adapter and Apple TV even though they are on different inputs. I recently started having “You haven’t setup your remote” messages on my Apple TV when I tried adjusting the volume via the Apple TV Remote. It appears to be the same issue...it happens after I connect the usb-c adaptor.
What I’ve noticed is the “Turn On Your TV with Your Remote” option in the Apple TV settings turns into a “Control TVs and Receivers” option once the usb-c adapter is added on another HDMI cable. That’s when the volume control on my LG Remote and Apple Remote stop working.
I have a feeling the adapter has its own volume control system from the good old days when MacBooks shipped with an Apple Remote so you could adjust volume and play/pause media remotely.
Posting all these details here in case someone else starts having the same issues.
Had the same issue re-occur a couple of times now. The “reliable” fix is:
1. disconnect all hdmi cables except ARC.
2. power off everything for about 3 min
3. restart
4. reconnect other hdmi cables
The problem reoccurs every few months, but this fix has been working consistently for me. Very frustrating though!!! I wish LG would fix this.
This just happened to me today on my LG 55GX TV which is connected to my sonos arc. I had the standard issue that when I used the LG magic remote, the volume + / - icons appeared on the screen but the actual volume coming from the arc was not changing. I could only change the volume from the sound bar itself or on the sonos app. For me all I had to do was disconnect the hdmi cable from my PS4 and it all worked again. I didn't have to turn the TV or the arc off, or even unplug any of the other hdmi cables. I then plugged the PS4 hdmi back in, but the issue came back immediately so I've pulled in back out and all is good again. It may be worth noting that the hdmi cable I use for the PS4 is the only older hdmi cable which I have in use - the rest are newer ultra high speed hdmi cables. So maybe it's something to do with older hdmi cables?
Userlevel 5
+14
So I just ran into this issue with my 65 lg cx. My Apple tv is not able to control it nor my magic remote. Also have ps5 and gaming switch with multiple gaming systems attached. My question is. Can i just disconnect the devices from hdmi themselves or do i have to disconnect them from the back of the tv. Reason i ask is my tv is on a wall without a swing out and it’s tight and a pain. Do i have to unplug the power of all of them or just the tv?
In this case disconnecting one end will suffice.
Each situation is a little different. Sometimes one or both devices must be rebooted while the cable is detached. Some TV’s must be powered down for two minutes before they will reboot.
I recommend starting from power down with nothing connected to the TV. Power up the TV and the soundbar, then attach the cable.
As the connection is made, the TV and soundbar will negotiate which audio and video formats are common. If you have a bunch of games and players attached at that time, the negotiation might become confused by too much chatter.
Userlevel 5
+14
In this case disconnecting one end will suffice.
Each situation is a little different. Sometimes one or both devices must be rebooted while the cable is detached. Some TV’s must be powered down for two minutes before they will reboot.
I recommend starting from power down with nothing connected to the TV. Power up the TV and the soundbar, then attach the cable.
As the connection is made, the TV and soundbar will negotiate which audio and video formats are common. If you have a bunch of games and players attached at that time, the negotiation might become confused by too much chatter.
Sorry one more clarification, when you say power down and up do you mean unplug power or from an off position. Also, do I need to set up everything on the sonos app again, that is delete the rears and sub and re add them?
“Reboot” is simply removing power. This will not destroy any fundamental SONOS settings.
I’m annoyed that this is sometimes required. Unfortunately, there are some details about the negotiation process that are not explicitly specified in the standard and each manufacturer might have a slightly different interpretation of the standard. When there is an issue the common answer is “we have never seen this before” or “it’s not our fault”. After a while one or the other manufacturer might receive so many complaints about a specific issue that they will release an update to work around the issue. Meanwhile, the other manufacturer might also release a change and the two changes might interact poorly, generating another round of “not our problem”.
That HDMI switch complicates things because the switch will present itself to the TV as a single device, but the device identity and supported audio/video/control features might be different for each input device attached to the switch. There are somewhat expensive solutions to this. The switching device will include enough extra electronics to present the best possible interface options to each input and output device. The switch will mediate any differences. A side benefit might be almost instant switching between input devices. The dark period that you observe while switching inputs is due to the negotiation between devices. At minimum, each device must prove that it honors intellectual property rights protection. With the extra electronics on board the input and output devices never need to renegotiate anything.
Userlevel 5
+14
Update. That did the trick. Thank you so much for your help!!!
Userlevel 5
+14
Nope I was wrong, did it again. Damn.
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