Connect Amp - how many models
How many different models have there been? I see different models being sold on Ebay. I'm asking because I have a playbar and a sub. I am adding ceiling speakers that I will wire to my connect amp. Does it matter which model I get? Thanks
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Prior to The Great Rebranding of 2011, the Connect:Amp was called the ZonePlayer 120 (or ZP120). Other than the name, they are identical. At that time, the ZP90 was renamed the Connect.
The model the ZP120 replaced, the ZonePlayer 100, is still supported, but has long been out of production.
The C:A/ZP120 and ZP100 are the only models capable of directly driving ceiling speakers.
The model the ZP120 replaced, the ZonePlayer 100, is still supported, but has long been out of production.
The C:A/ZP120 and ZP100 are the only models capable of directly driving ceiling speakers.
NoBoB;226331 wrote:
Prior to The Great Rebranding of 2011, the Connect:Amp was called the ZonePlayer 120 (or ZP120). Other than the name, they are identical. At that time, the ZP90 was renamed the Connect.
The model the ZP120 replaced, the ZonePlayer 100, is still supported, but has long been out of production.
The C:A/ZP120 and ZP100 are the only models capable of directly driving ceiling speakers.
The model the ZP120 replaced, the ZonePlayer 100, is still supported, but has long been out of production.
The C:A/ZP120 and ZP100 are the only models capable of directly driving ceiling speakers.
Identical ??? I'm not sure of that. The speaker connection are different on some models? Also the qty. of Ethernet poets are different on some and I heard the wifi was a little different.
mstrlucky74;226336 wrote:
Identical ??? I'm not sure of that. The speaker connection are different on some models? Also the qty. of Ethernet poets are different on some and I heard the wifi was a little different.
You misinterpreted NoBob's post.
Connect:Amp = ZP120 the only difference is a naming change.
The ZP100 is very different from the ZP120/Connect:Amp.
Best of Luck
Buegie;226337 wrote:
You misinterpreted NoBob's post.
Connect:Amp = ZP120 the only difference is a naming change.
The ZP100 is very different from the ZP120/Connect:Amp.
Best of Luck
Connect:Amp = ZP120 the only difference is a naming change.
The ZP100 is very different from the ZP120/Connect:Amp.
Best of Luck
Thanks B. What exactly are the differences between the ZP100 and ZP120? Thanks
mstrlucky74;228959 wrote:
What exactly are the differences between the ZP100 and ZP120?
ZP100 was larger and heavier, with a toroidal power transformer. It had Line-Out and 4 Ethernet jacks. Output power was slightly lower (50W/ch vs 55W/ch). It also had only SonosNet 1.0 wireless.
As the first ever Sonos Player it was something of a jack of all trades. Since then we've had ZP80/90/CONNECT to feed downstream equipment with a line-level signal. Furthermore most probably never used the additional 2 Ethernet jacks; the primary purpose of having more than one was to permit daisy-chaining.
Click Product Guides on http://www.sonos.com/support for information on all models, past and present. Here is the guide for ZP100.
As we started our Sonos implementation back in 2007 when the only products were; ZP100, ZP80, CR100 (great "little" hand held controller) and the SP100 (a pair of bookcase speakers), we have ended up with 9 ZP100s.
They are all still going strong (I really hope that is not the kiss of death!). I far as I remember when the ZP120 came out it lost 2 of the Ethernet ports and the line out, but gained 5w per channel hence the name change (100w became 120w) and also benefited from SonosNet 2.
I could never find a reason to upgrade as we rarely went above 50% volume, and never had range issues so Sonosnet 2 was not required.
Regarding second hand units, any ZP120 will the some as a Connect Amp other than age of course and should be fine. But as with all electronic items you can never really tell.
They are all still going strong (I really hope that is not the kiss of death!). I far as I remember when the ZP120 came out it lost 2 of the Ethernet ports and the line out, but gained 5w per channel hence the name change (100w became 120w) and also benefited from SonosNet 2.
I could never find a reason to upgrade as we rarely went above 50% volume, and never had range issues so Sonosnet 2 was not required.
Regarding second hand units, any ZP120 will the some as a Connect Amp other than age of course and should be fine. But as with all electronic items you can never really tell.
Hello, I recently bought a connect:amp off of eBay, but it appears to have a different setup than the website indicates. Namely, I cannot future out how to connect it via WiFi. The booklet that came with it makes it seem like it requires a direct connection to a computer and some sort of remote. Does anyone have any advice on how to connect this to my existing wireless system?
That is a ZP100, the earliest incarnation of what is now the Connect:Amp (It should have been advertised as a ZP100, not as a C:A). It is still fully compatible with your existing Sonos system and can connect to wifi.
To add it to your system you need to factory reset the ZP100 first, but I'd bet a fair sum that once you have done so it will be too far out of date to update properly without intervention from Sonos Support. I think you will have to call them. Provided it isn't faulty it should be fine in the end.
You would add it using 'Add a player or Sub' in the Sonos app, but as mentioned, I think updating will be an issue.
To add it to your system you need to factory reset the ZP100 first, but I'd bet a fair sum that once you have done so it will be too far out of date to update properly without intervention from Sonos Support. I think you will have to call them. Provided it isn't faulty it should be fine in the end.
You would add it using 'Add a player or Sub' in the Sonos app, but as mentioned, I think updating will be an issue.
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I'd go so far as to say that if this was sold as a 'Connect:Amp' it constitutes misrepresentation.
@richelle.lenee: Assuming you already have a Sonos system, in addition to John B's comments I'd also suggest you temporarily wire one of your existing Sonos players to the network (if that's not already the case) and wire the ZP100 too. You may still need Sonos Support's assistance but this will give you the best chance of getting it up and running yourself. Once updated to the latest software you can then unwire.
@richelle.lenee: Assuming you already have a Sonos system, in addition to John B's comments I'd also suggest you temporarily wire one of your existing Sonos players to the network (if that's not already the case) and wire the ZP100 too. You may still need Sonos Support's assistance but this will give you the best chance of getting it up and running yourself. Once updated to the latest software you can then unwire.
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Thank you for your help everyone! Agree it is a little of a mis advertisement but it ultimately is now working in the same capacity as a Connect:amp. I called customer support (they were awesome by the way) and to reset, you have to hold the top button (on mine it's a mute button but on new ones it's a play/pause) while you plug the device into power. That resets the device. Then you can add it to your existing system using the app just as you would a newer one. Then it did go through a software update and I guess mine was new enough that customer support didn't have to push an update to it, it updated automatically. This was apparently a 2007 vintage device. Just in case anyone else runs across this thread. Thanks again for the quick responses everyone!
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richelle.lenee wrote:
This was apparently a 2007 vintage device.
Does it have a mark on the right side? It could be my old one.... Just kidding.
Whatever, it's good that you have it up and running. It doesn't have the processor/memory capabilities of the Connect:Amp, so it's not quite the same in terms of functionality. For example it can no longer do an incremental library index scan, but that may not be important to you. So far, the ZP100 -- and its approximate contemporary the ZP80 -- have managed to retain the important functionality in terms of actually playing music.
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No mark on the side that I can tell, ha! But now what I'm experiencing is that it disconnect and disappears from my system after playing music for a period of time. I have to unplug it and replug it in, or I have to re-setup. Has anyone had to do this before?
How long does it take before it disappears? If you don't actually play any music does it remain visible in your Sonos controller?
Next time it disappears submit a diagnostic if you have any other Sonos devices to do that from.
Amy odd light blinking / colors from the status light? https://support.sonos.com/s/article/226?language=en_US
Have you tried connecting it to Ethernet to see if the problem is with the WiFi connection?
Amy odd light blinking / colors from the status light? https://support.sonos.com/s/article/226?language=en_US
Have you tried connecting it to Ethernet to see if the problem is with the WiFi connection?
Stanley_4 wrote:
Next time it disappears submit a diagnostic if you have any other Sonos devices to do that from.
Amy odd light blinking / colors from the status light? https://support.sonos.com/s/article/226?language=en_US
Have you tried connecting it to Ethernet to see if the problem is with the WiFi connection?
Amy odd light blinking / colors from the status light? https://support.sonos.com/s/article/226?language=en_US
Have you tried connecting it to Ethernet to see if the problem is with the WiFi connection?
Hi! When it stops playing, it does appear to continue playing on my controllers even though you cannot hear it and my Alexa echo dots thinks that room is still playing too. No strange blinking lights. And yes, tried direct internet tie in.
ratty wrote:
How long does it take before it disappears? If you don't actually play any music does it remain visible in your Sonos controller?
The amount of time varies but usually just under one minute. Sometimes it stays visible in the controller but the controller and all other controllers such as Alexa thinks it’s still playing. Other times it disappears from the controller entirely.
When music is playing, a controller doesn't stay in continuous contact with a player. The player can quietly expire, yet the controller will continue to show it playing ... at least for a time.
I was curious to know whether it was the actual playing of the music which was upsetting the ZP, in which case I would suspect a hardware fault. Increased temperature could be causing an aged component to go out of spec.
If the ZP drops off the network even when left idle it might suggest a network issue, such as a simple IP conflict which a full network restart should resolve. An IP issue would usually cause a player to come and go though. If, after a while, it just vanishes I fear it could again be hardware related.
To be perfectly frank, given that this was advertised as a Connect:Amp at this point I'd be reaching for the 'Item not as described' button on eBay and looking for a refund.
I was curious to know whether it was the actual playing of the music which was upsetting the ZP, in which case I would suspect a hardware fault. Increased temperature could be causing an aged component to go out of spec.
If the ZP drops off the network even when left idle it might suggest a network issue, such as a simple IP conflict which a full network restart should resolve. An IP issue would usually cause a player to come and go though. If, after a while, it just vanishes I fear it could again be hardware related.
To be perfectly frank, given that this was advertised as a Connect:Amp at this point I'd be reaching for the 'Item not as described' button on eBay and looking for a refund.
There is a ZP100 failure mode that will result in similar symptoms and I've seen this cause other network issues.
As a quick diagnosic and possible workaround, wire the unit to your network. If there is wireless interference or a defective ZP100 radio, the wired connection will get you going.
Note that there is another ZP100 failure mode that disconnects the network ports from other parts of the player.
My ZP100's are still working and are from the original production run.
Wireless interference leaves clear tracks in the diagnostics.
As a quick diagnosic and possible workaround, wire the unit to your network. If there is wireless interference or a defective ZP100 radio, the wired connection will get you going.
Note that there is another ZP100 failure mode that disconnects the network ports from other parts of the player.
My ZP100's are still working and are from the original production run.
Wireless interference leaves clear tracks in the diagnostics.
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