Hello !

I'm currently racking my brains over this problem, the resistor is  R37- marking code 01B =1k .

Good luck with the repair, if I manage to repair my sub I will share.

Thank you for your response. I replaced R37 with a 1k and it promptly smoked. Further investigation showed a 1 ohm resistor R77 is open and Q10, a mosfet, measures short between all pins. Q16 also has an open between E and B. Parts are on order..Will keep you in the loop. There is a video in German that shows replacing R37 but since I don't speak  German, I have no idea what is being said. Good luck with your repair as well.

My power supply started after replacing the elements.

r77 - 1ohm

r37 - 1k

Q16 -pnp 

Q10 - p chanel 

D15  - B280

To be safe, I also changed the IC TL5001

works well the voltage of  C49 is 12 volts .
I wish you success .

Thank you for all that info...... I have all the parts here or on order except D15 which I will look at the data sheet for details: I may have one here if it is a standard zener.  We seem to be in a very small club that is trying to repair this equipment.

B280 =2.0A HIGH VOLTAGE SCHOTTKY BARRIER RECTIFIER 

I installed a B2100, I had one on hand and it works well.

https://www.tme.eu/Document/992db806510aed222541577ccd88ed28/b270-2100.pdf

Thank you

can you please verify the parts you ordered?  I am having a similar problem with mine, and have been trying to track it down. I fear that I may have misidentified one of the sot23 parts because of the markings. One that I have not been able to get was q10. But I would like to cross reference to what I ordered if possible. Mine starts close to 48 volts then falls down and then pulses again. Its almost like the tl5001 is cycling because it can't startup. I replaced the opto as well thinking that it wasn't feeding back.

Thanks, Jason

Hi Jason

I received my parts last week and have replaced all that I ordered but I found some suspect 2n3904  and have not  not turned it on  till I replace them with 2n2222.

Q10 is marked 7P1 and is a ZXMP40A13.  The specs are P channel mosfet. Verify your Q10 is marked 7P1. If you google smt part markings you will find a huge cross reference to both active and passive parts. My resistors are marked with an alternate marking scheme.

The part I ordered is not what I recieved, I got a 10A 13 instead but I hope it will work. I  also ordered 5001C,  2n2907, and 1R0 resistors.

It would be helpful if we could swap pix of the boards to verify the component silkscreen ID. Mine are sloppy at best.

Are you in the US ?

Carl

Hi Jason, 

You mention an opto. What part is that and where is it located ?

Carl

Jason.

Moderator edit: removed email address - use private messages

List of components:

condensator smd 1210 1uF 100v (C85)

resistance smd 0603 1K ohm 01B (R37)

resistance smd 1206 1 ohm 1R00 (R77)

Transistor 2F SOT-23 0,8A 60V (Q16)

Transistor ZXMP10A13FQ 7P1 (Q10)

Diode zener B280 13-F (D15)

Schnibble

Thank you for that information. Later today I will reassemble the sub and hopefully it will turn on and not "fire up "

I found Q16 to be a 2n2907

 Carl

Good luck!

Let me know.

TheSchnibble

UGHHHH…..Majic smoke again.  Took out R37, R77 and Q10.  Now measuring a short both ways on D15, Google search for B280 shows up as a shotkey diode. Im confused as to D15 being a zener or not.

Can I stick a 1N4007 in place of the B280 for a test to see if it will power up at all ? 

Hi, try to see this:

You can ask him.

I think you need to change D15, Q10, R37 and R77 before power on the sub.

Thank you.

I did replace all those components that you suggested. I also replaced Q16 and D15 with a 2A 100v  diode (not a schotkey.)

It has now powered up and I did a factory reset which was successful. I think I've fixed it but will not know for sure till I can get the sub back to the rest of the system

Thank you so much  for your help and the help from the rest of the Sonos community. I will update the forum after I've confirmed its fully functional.

​@Flyorcw 

I’m very happy for you!

Same for me, I replaced yesterday D15, D16, Q10, R37, R77, C85. The Sub back to live.

I'm glad to hear you are back up and running. I will know br Tuesday if I was successful. My only concern is D15 is not a schotkey diode.

We are a select few who have repaired these devices. So the question is what  is the root cause that makes this part of the circuit fail ?  I guess we can only speculate !!

Just tested the Sonos Sub2 and it is fixed.  Components changed were C85, R37, R77, Q16, Q10, D15 and the TL5001. Thanks to all of you who helped me with this. I sourced my parts from Alibaba, the shipping was more than the parts.  Yippee !!

Really appreciate everyone's effort in extending the lives of the sub for as long as possible, the information gathered here is really helpful! 

I don't have any technical ability so I've just been relaying information from this thread to my local repair guy and he mentioned to ask the forum for "U7 8Pin definitions and input/output voltage". I'm hoping someone knows what this means and what the values are. 

Thanks everyone! 

Your repair guy  can Google 5001c for the data sheet. It's  a PWM. It was easier to just replace the chip than to pull out the oscilloscope and try to determine if the chip was bad. All the parts I changed including the chip iare available from China. Delivery will take a few weeks.

I hope your repair guy has experience with SMT.

Good luck.

Hello, I just repaired my sub with the above components suggested and now my sub is back to work again. Thank you so much guys. I have paused the repair over the last one year as I was living abroad and did not have the opportunity to fix the unit. R73, R77, Q10 had burnt marks at closer look under a scope. For Q10, while less obvious, its drain and source were shorted even though it is not biased.

R37 - 1kohm 0603

R77 - 1ohm 1206

Q10 - 7P1 sot-23 P-Channel mosfet

Q16 - 2F sot-23 PNP

D15 - B280 Schottky Diode