First of all if you must use a Boost it’s only recommended in extreme situations. Sonos prefers WiFi as the means of linking all speakers. Furthermore if the SonosNet is required it’s also recommended to wire a speaker to your router instead. So the question is why are you trying to incorporate a Boost into your system?

Note: Speakers used as surrounds; nor a sub, cannot be used to create the SonosNet

Why are you trying to add a Boost? It should not be needed at this point.

If you are having connection issues, you may need to take a closer look at your network instead.

If all the speakers you have, form a home theater system, try hardwiring the Playbar, leaving it WIFI enabled in its settings. The Sub and Play 1 as surrounds, bond to a private radio transmitted by the Playbar and not your homes WIFI. 

Consider that Sonos no longer sells the Boost or a replacement for it, maybe it isn't a good option today. 

Because there is no speaker placed next to the router, or for aesthetic reasons? Because that is exactly why the Boost was designed in the first place. Why do some people think that the Boost is inferior to wiring a speaker? It is not.

As you seem to think I’m the only one with the opinion of the Boost to be a last resort choice maybe the quote below will answer your question. I’ve also provided the link. And yes it is a second level choice to wiring a speaker. However, make your own decision as mine stands as I stated. Furthermore, I asked the question of the OP for their reason…not yours!

Boost end of sale

​@bertietabac, Unplug all of your Sonos units except for the Boost.

1. Reset the Sonos app, and re-connect it with an Existing System
2. Open the app. Do you see the Boost? If so, factory reset the Playbar, subsequently add it to an existing system as well
3. In the Sonos app, do you see the Boost + Playbar? If so, factory reset & add the Sub and the Play:1s one by one as outlined in 2.

​@bertietabac 

Note: If the Playbar is the only Sonos room in your home; as the Sub and any Surrounds are not, a Factory Reset will destroy any Playlists you have created.

The Boost only supports older wireless standards and only on 2.4 gHz so almost any modern router will do better at hosting other Sonos, mesh even better. It also only supports Sonosnet v2 so newer Sonos won't connect to it. 

Maybe compared to wiring an older speaker the Boost is going to provide similar performance. How it compares to a newer speaker, one that supports Sonosnet would be interesting to look up.

I'm firmly in the Wi-Fi camp as a default option.  Maybe after working with support and not getting that working I'd see wiring as a possible solution. I'd still have un-wirable ones (no access) and wifi only ones to deal with. The Ethernet Era dongles would be an option, but not cheap. 

Thank you all so very much for your prompt responses - I followed your advice ​@Smilja 

1. I unplugged all devices from power
2. I reset the app
3. I logged back into the S1 app and I connected to existing system
4. I was able to see the boost -and so I factory reset the playbar and tried connecting it via S1 App>Settings> System> Add Product
5. I saw flashing green lights on the playbar and it went farther towards connection (i.e. made the sound)  but then failed - apparently I was not close enough to the router (I was a foot away from my eero and the boost)
6. so I tried to wire an ethernet line in - tried both lan ports on the playbar, but same result.

What else may I try? 

thank you

Can you please answer one question?

Why do you want to add the Boost to your system?

Is there some issue you are trying to solve? OR do you simply want a Sonos system setup like it used to be?

​@Pools-3015  - I had used it in my last place and everything worked. When I had tried just wi-fi then, Sonos simply did not work for me, but Boost did the trick.

I’m not bent on using Boost - at this point, I’m just trying to minimize variables as I get it working.

In this case - Sonos S1 asks me to join the sonos SSID, but even though I join successfully, the playbar fails connection

Who is your new ISP?

What device did they provide for internet access?

If it is a combo device, was it placed into bridge mode so that you can use the Eero for routing? If not you may have a double NAT issue that may be preventing you from having the speakers connect properly to your WI-FI.

Comcast + Motorola B12 + 3 Eero 7 Pro 

Some googlefu later - this is what I read

“Eero bridge mode turns off routing, DHCP, and security features, allowing an upstream router (like an ISP gateway) to handle network management while eero acts as a mesh access point. Enable this in the eero app under Settings > Network Settings > DHCP & NAT > Bridge. It prevents double NAT issues.”

Alternative: Instead of bridging eero, it is often better to put your ISP-provided modem/router combo into bridge mode (or "passthrough" mode) and let eero handle routing.

Question: are both these options with or without boost?

You should not have a double NAT issues with the B12 and Eero Pro 7.

Which Eero node did you connect the Boost to? I believe you NEED to connect it to the main node that is connected to the modem. Have you tried that?

Too close is bad for wireless, less than 3 feet and radios are swamped by more signal than they can process. Every wifi device should be 3 plus feet away from another for clear communications.

Same distance from any other radio or rf noise generating devicce.

I can try that and report back, because the Boost is not not connected to the main eero.

However - what was also weird is that I was asked to join the sonos wifi - I do not recall needing to do that the last time this worked. 

Why are you using S1 software? You don't have it listed in your profile but the gear you listed above is all S2 compatible.

Is there any chance you are using a Bridge and not a Boost?

​@Stanley_4  - a few years ago sonos forced me to the S1 App (after trying to upsell the newer sonos).

I was not aware of the existence of an S2 app.

Here

https://support.sonos.com/en-us/article/update-to-the-latest-sonos-app-using-the-s1-controller

But Boost or Bridge, that is important. 

​@Pools-3015  I connected the boost to the main eero that’s connected to the modem. The S1 app continues to “see” the boost, but I’m not able to add the playbar - with or without ethernet.

Then I disconnected the boost entirely and reset the app and was able to add the playbar while it was connected to ethernet.

Next, when I tried to add the sub, same dealio - no green light, flashing red lights or steady white light. Says it’ll connect, but does not connect.

and ​@Stanley_4 The new Sonos app does not recognize any of these.

I was so enamoured with the Sonos when I bought it - ultimately I realize that hard wiring dumb speakers is just an amazing low tech way to recoup your weekend.

Moderator Note: Modified in accordance with the Community Code of Conduct.

well - I did not use boost and my eero does not have bridge.

But even when I used boost - nothing worked.
​@Pools-3015  - connecting the boost to the main eero and trying to add the playbar with or without Ethernet does not work - it tries to connect and fails.

Moreover - not using boost allows me to connect to the playbar successfully, but when I add the sub, it fails again.

It feels like I can have one device connected with or without boost, but not the other.

@Stanley_4  -  the sonos app does no bettter 

Since I’ve moved and it’s a new setup entirely (new SSID etc) - is there anyway I can restart this as a new system and try again?

​
 

You may want to read the new router - installation instructions FAQ.

Restarting as new would require a Factory Reset of all devices and this would be a lot of extra work.  SONOS Playlists and music service registrations will be destroyed. The easiest way to deal with this sort of move is to give the new WiFi the old router’s SSID and password. If you do this now, reboot the SONOS units. With modern WiFi, such as Eero with Access Points, BRIDGE and BOOST are a step down.