ARC intermittent connection loss possibly with Atmos only

Interesting so I wonder if this eARc setting has anything to do with ithe differences on how it functions?  My tv only have HDMI ARC (no eARC).  And still no cutout at this point.  I think that was it gentlemen.  And yes I do recall it being set to Auto originally but everything I read mentioned Pass-Through but maybe how this particular TV is communicating with the Firestick this is how it needs to be set up?  Remember also that without the Firestick, using just the Smrt TV apps and had the setting on Pass-Through it worked great (no cutout).  

@ThatOneDude  You may try changing on your end to see if you get the same result.  Mind blown but I am deep into Moana (Atmos) and still working like a dream.  Unreal.  

My old TV in the Dining Room is ARC only, not eARC, and this chart shows the audio-bandwidth differences between the two types of Port:

Anyhow, my TV has quite a slow processor and no audio pass-through and that’s why I purchased an audio extractor (Feintech VAX04101A) to provide the option of bypassing the TV with external devices like FireTV etc. Such extractors do all work well, but are quite expensive, but much cheaper than buying a new TV and apart from anything else the TV in the Dining Room was otherwise a nice TV (just a bit old).

Anyhow, the extractor/switch worked great and it solved all the lip-sync issues I was seeing with the connected devices/apps and gave me DD+ Atmos (compressed) audio capability too… It actually supports the multichannel Linear PCM  (uncompressed) audio codec aswell as Dolby Digital TrueHD (Atmos) (uncompressed) audio, not that I use those two codecs on that particular setup.

I have heard a lot of good reports from users about the devices and I understand the Arcana is very good aswell .. the OREI device is the ‘new kid on the block’ and I’ve seen good reports about that too. So my thoughts are there is perhaps little to choose between them except the case that the OREI and Feintech devices are a combined extractor/switch, whereas the Arcana would require you to add a HDMI switch, that’s if you needed to plugin more than one external device, like FireTV and say Apple TV, as an example.

The Arcana is also the more expensive product.

So my thoughts are to perhaps do a little more research to begin with and think about your longer term needs and then make your selection, but if it comes down to the Arcana or OREI device (because you perhaps cannot get your hands on the Feintech device) then I would personally go with OREI, but sadly I can’t ‘truly’ vouch for it, as I’ve never used it (or the Arcana for that matter).. it’s just the fact it’s a combined HDMI switch that makes me sway towards that product.

I understand HDFury do have an Arcana-combined-switch device called VRRoom, but it’s apparently very expensive and I’ve not yet come across anyone who uses that product, but here is a link to perhaps assist your research:

https://www.hdfury.uk/product/hdfury-vrroom-8k/

I hope that info. helps 👍

I just pulled the trigger in the Orei HDA-932. How do you like it?  Hoping it will fix my lip sync issues. I think my tv processor is just not ideal to handle Atmos content all the time for my Sonos Beam (Gen 2), Plus the tv is only ARC, not eARC. Delivers Friday!  

Crazy right?  Same here, never thought about it because everything says to stick to pass-through. I also just realized (like 5 minutes ago) I had my “Instant Game Response” turned on for HDMI 1 (firestick) as opposed to HDMI3 (xbox) for some reason. This is the reason I was having a slight lip sync on YouTube tv.  I’m gonna check out this Orei anyways to see how I like it but man what a mess the last week has been trying to figure this out haha. Glad it worked for you also!!  Cheers!!

When you do setup and have the OREI working Bruce, I would be interested too in what you think about it in comparison to the Arcana .. no rush of course.👍 (TIA)

Cool! Well from what the paper says, it seems correct. I heard that the HDMI OUT that goes to the TV SHOULD go into the eARC/ARC one to use CEC controls. 

I too presume the Beam is plugged into ‘7’ and TV into ‘8’ and that the sound-out is set to 7.1 (using the audio select button) with eARC enabled.. fire TV 4K into ‘1’, that’s based on the numbers shown in that user-manual image.

It does support CEC, so ensure CEC is enabled on the FireTV and also check ‘TV Autoplay’ is enabled in the Beams ‘room’ settings in the Sonos App ‘Settings/System/[Beam Room Name]’ (In fact maybe try toggling ‘off/on’ the ‘TV Autoplay’ setting and just ensure it’s left ‘on’). Hope you are able to sort it.👍

Also check to see if there are any firmware updates for the OREI device too. These devices can usually be updated over their USB (5v power) connection to a PC, but see what OREI support perhaps say about that.

Hey guys. @Ken_Griffiths @ThatOneDude   Side bar question. Been reading that creating a static IP is the way to go. I have my Beam hardwired and 3 other sl’s connected Wi-Fi via SonosNet (I presume seeing WM:0 below). Do I create the static IP with all of the devices or just the Beam since it is the only one that is hard wired?  

Secondary question, do I keep all of my devices “Enable Wi-Fi” with this configuration?

Thanks @Ken_Griffiths. I’m now trying to find out what is “outside my DHCP range”. I’m logged into my router and seeing that this. Router supports up to 253 IP addresses. I also see the starting and ending addresses. I assume that is my range?  It will not allow me to set something over 192.168.1.255??  Thoughts?  If I create a static IP on the current assigned IP address is that counterintuitive to what I need to do?