I have set my LG C9 TV to ‘pass-through’ as I have set the audio codecs on the attached devices and so the TV does not try to process the audio and just lets it pass through its ports .. but note the default setting on almost all TV’s is ‘Auto’.

Interesting so I wonder if this eARc setting has anything to do with ithe differences on how it functions?  My tv only have HDMI ARC (no eARC).  And still no cutout at this point.  I think that was it gentlemen.  And yes I do recall it being set to Auto originally but everything I read mentioned Pass-Through but maybe how this particular TV is communicating with the Firestick this is how it needs to be set up?  Remember also that without the Firestick, using just the Smrt TV apps and had the setting on Pass-Through it worked great (no cutout).  

@ThatOneDude  You may try changing on your end to see if you get the same result.  Mind blown but I am deep into Moana (Atmos) and still working like a dream.  Unreal.  

Ill report my results tomorrow, keep me posted. @RaultTN 

Well gentlemen @Ken_Griffiths and @ThatOneDude  I think I am marking this as resolved.  Made it through the entire Disney + Atmos movie, and now running through an Amazon Prime Atmos show just to make sure but all is working as advertised and nothing cutting our nor any lip sync issues.  My System and settings are as follows:

System: LG TV with a Firestick 4K in HDMI 1, Sonos Beam (Gen 2) in HDMI 2 (Arc) both connected via HDMI.

LG TV Settings:

HDMI: ARC

Digital Sound Out: Auto

HDMI Input: all inputs set to Bitstream

Firestick 4K Settings:

Video Resolution: Auto

Match Original Frame Rate: Off

Color Depth: Up to 10 bits

Color Format: Auto

Dynamic Range Setting: Adaptive

Surround Sound: Best Available

 Hey @Ken_Griffiths  Do you have any US equivalent that you suggest?  I noticed that although Prime and Disney etc are working great, I do have a little bit of lip sync on YouTubeTv only and only when the content is being streamed in DD 2.0.  I see I can get the HDFury but the reviews arent great.  Any other suggestions or do you think that should do the trick since I am using a Firestick 4K?   

Or is that more than I need since I am already getting Atmos content?  Is there something else that I could get that would help with lip sync?  When I change the setting through the Sonos app it works, but then I am off again when going to DD+ content  

Thanks again for all of your help!   

My old TV in the Dining Room is ARC only, not eARC, and this chart shows the audio-bandwidth differences between the two types of Port:

Anyhow, my TV has quite a slow processor and no audio pass-through and that’s why I purchased an audio extractor (Feintech VAX04101A) to provide the option of bypassing the TV with external devices like FireTV etc. Such extractors do all work well, but are quite expensive, but much cheaper than buying a new TV and apart from anything else the TV in the Dining Room was otherwise a nice TV (just a bit old).

Anyhow, the extractor/switch worked great and it solved all the lip-sync issues I was seeing with the connected devices/apps and gave me DD+ Atmos (compressed) audio capability too… It actually supports the multichannel Linear PCM  (uncompressed) audio codec aswell as Dolby Digital TrueHD (Atmos) (uncompressed) audio, not that I use those two codecs on that particular setup.

I have heard a lot of good reports from users about the devices and I understand the Arcana is very good aswell .. the OREI device is the ‘new kid on the block’ and I’ve seen good reports about that too. So my thoughts are there is perhaps little to choose between them except the case that the OREI and Feintech devices are a combined extractor/switch, whereas the Arcana would require you to add a HDMI switch, that’s if you needed to plugin more than one external device, like FireTV and say Apple TV, as an example.

The Arcana is also the more expensive product.

So my thoughts are to perhaps do a little more research to begin with and think about your longer term needs and then make your selection, but if it comes down to the Arcana or OREI device (because you perhaps cannot get your hands on the Feintech device) then I would personally go with OREI, but sadly I can’t ‘truly’ vouch for it, as I’ve never used it (or the Arcana for that matter).. it’s just the fact it’s a combined HDMI switch that makes me sway towards that product.

I understand HDFury do have an Arcana-combined-switch device called VRRoom, but it’s apparently very expensive and I’ve not yet come across anyone who uses that product, but here is a link to perhaps assist your research:

https://www.hdfury.uk/product/hdfury-vrroom-8k/

I hope that info. helps

I’ve purchased both the HD Fury Arcana and the OREI devices here in the states, one from HD Fury directly, the other through Amazon. 

I just pulled the trigger in the Orei HDA-932. How do you like it?  Hoping it will fix my lip sync issues. I think my tv processor is just not ideal to handle Atmos content all the time for my Sonos Beam (Gen 2), Plus the tv is only ARC, not eARC. Delivers Friday!  

Just wanted to let ya know @RaultTN that so far I havent gotten a single cut out which I find amazing. Never did I think to set the Digital Out to Auto because everything I read always said Pass-through. Also I havent noticed any Lip sync issues on my end. Thanks for everyone's help! May we all have many a night of undisturbed media viewing.  

Crazy right?  Same here, never thought about it because everything says to stick to pass-through. I also just realized (like 5 minutes ago) I had my “Instant Game Response” turned on for HDMI 1 (firestick) as opposed to HDMI3 (xbox) for some reason. This is the reason I was having a slight lip sync on YouTube tv.  I’m gonna check out this Orei anyways to see how I like it but man what a mess the last week has been trying to figure this out haha. Glad it worked for you also!!  Cheers!!

Haven’t had the time to install it yet. There’s a need for wrangling which one connects to which TV, and I’ve been somewhat busy. 

When you do setup and have the OREI working Bruce, I would be interested too in what you think about it in comparison to the Arcana .. no rush of course. (TIA)

Gentlemen @Airgetlam @Ken_Griffiths @ThatOneDude. just got my Orei 931 and have a question about setup. Correct me if i am wrong:

HDA-931 Front:

HDMI In: Firestick 4K

HDA-931 Back

Soundbar eARC: To my Sonos Beam Gen 2 ARC

TV HDMI: to my tv (HDMI 1). If I plug into HDMI 2 I don’t get sound?  should it to go into the ARC input?  Does it matter?  Maybe my settings need changed from my end?
 

Cool! Well from what the paper says, it seems correct. I heard that the HDMI OUT that goes to the TV SHOULD go into the eARC/ARC one to use CEC controls. 

Yea I think that is right. Just gonna have to figure out what setting I have that is not allowing sound to come through. 
 

Do y’all know if there is an advantage of using a firestick over the apps on a smart tv?  Is it primarily UI or are there audio/video advantages to one or the other?

I too presume the Beam is plugged into ‘7’ and TV into ‘8’ and that the sound-out is set to 7.1 (using the audio select button) with eARC enabled.. fire TV 4K into ‘1’, that’s based on the numbers shown in that user-manual image.

That is correct @Ken_Griffiths. I  still can’t figure out the sound. Im losing faith in this device. I’ve now discovered it does not work well when turning off my tv (using firestick remote).  I assume CEC setting somewhere. After powering my tv back on I get no sound until I power cycle the Orei device. And only after the firestick and tv are powered on. What a mess.  

It does support CEC, so ensure CEC is enabled on the FireTV and also check ‘TV Autoplay’ is enabled in the Beams ‘room’ settings in the Sonos App ‘Settings/System/pBeam Room Name]’ (In fact maybe try toggling ‘off/on’ the ‘TV Autoplay’ setting and just ensure it’s left ‘on’). Hope you are able to sort it.

Thanks again. Confirmed CEC is on for firestick (has always worked great for tv and beam setup. Also confirmed TV Autoplay is on. Will toggle to test it. 
 

can you also confirm @Ken_Griffiths  that the out to tv (#8 above) should go into my tv’s ARC from the switch? Still can’t figure out the sound and the tv screen keeps flickering and seems to be either turning off or going into a standby mode. It’s acting very strange.  

Also check to see if there are any firmware updates for the OREI device too. These devices can usually be updated over their USB (5v power) connection to a PC, but see what OREI support perhaps say about that.

Sadly I can’t confirm this @RaultTN, as I’ve never used the OREI. As mentioned previously, I got the Feintech audio extractor/switch instead which I imported from Germany, but I would have thought it should connect to your TV’s ARC port - the Feintech extractor certainly connects to my TV’s ARC port, as would the Arcana in this situation too. Maybe give OREI customer support a call if you cannot resolve the issue, but what you’re doing sounds correct to me.

As another thought, could the issue be a problem with any of your HDMI cables, perhaps swap those and see if that makes any difference.

Hey guys. @Ken_Griffiths @ThatOneDude   Side bar question. Been reading that creating a static IP is the way to go. I have my Beam hardwired and 3 other sl’s connected Wi-Fi via SonosNet (I presume seeing WM:0 below). Do I create the static IP with all of the devices or just the Beam since it is the only one that is hard wired?  

Secondary question, do I keep all of my devices “Enable Wi-Fi” with this configuration?

Yes, I would set the IP addresses static for all Sonos products, including the surrounds and yes leave all the WiFi adapters enabled.

The Beam communicates with the surround and sub direct over an ad-hoc 5Ghz wireless connection, so don’t switch off your adapters on any of those devices, there’s very few occasions when that becomes necessary and the main example is when everything in the Sonos Home Theatre room needs to be wired... that does not apply in your case.

I don’t manually switch off any adapters here on any of my Sonos devices. 

Thanks @Ken_Griffiths. I’m now trying to find out what is “outside my DHCP range”. I’m logged into my router and seeing that this. Router supports up to 253 IP addresses. I also see the starting and ending addresses. I assume that is my range?  It will not allow me to set something over 192.168.1.255??  Thoughts?  If I create a static IP on the current assigned IP address is that counterintuitive to what I need to do?

No it’s all fine - set the IP addresses static within the range you have available - 192.168.1.2 and 192.168.1.253 inclusive. As an example you could set the Beam at its current IP address or if your router DHCP server lets you, you can set it higher up in the subnet perhaps. Two examples being  

Sonos Beam MAC Address 94:9F:3E:D0:3E:C2 - 192.168.1.150

Sonos One MAC Address 38:8A:24:3R:C2:A4 - 192.168.1.151

… just as examples.