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I am new to the concept and was enlightened by a more technical user. 

https://support.sonos.com/en-au/article/understanding-the-network-details-section-in-the-sonos-app

The Signal to Noise Ratio. This is a measure of the quality of the signal strength between the product and router and is expressed in decibels. A higher value represents a stronger signal. As a general guideline, a SNR of 45 dB and above is considered excellent, while a SNR of 25 dB or below is considered weak.

How to you observe or manage SNR on new app?
Instructions please. 

Hi @Multiculti, you can find the SNR numbers in the new app …

  • On the Home Screen, tap the egear icon]
  • Under Your System, select a room
  • Under Products, select a device
  • Under Status, tap Network
  • Under Connection, find SNR

… larger numbers are better. Do note that SNR does not reflect interference from neighboring Wi-Fi networks, microwave ovens, etcetera.


Just to add - as a general guideline, an SNR level of 45 dB or above, is considered an excellent (strong) signal, whilst an SNR of 25 dB or below, is considered weak.


Thanks @press250 !!!  
I use iOS & ipadOS 80.04.04 both & macOS 16.3 (on S2 maintenance mode), besides webapp on updated chrome on latest macOS. 

I started wondering if I was living in an alternate reality or why my attempts to navigate your path to SNR don’t match yours ...then I thought: this only works if one is fully relying on wi-fi and no Sonos device is plugged to ethernet correct? One of the beams is connected to AT&T fiber optic gateway/router, so that (would) explain why there’s no SNR status, as I assume that system is on SonosNet, even when such wording no longer appears on app.
Is that the correct assumption?  ...or?


I clicked on Gear and attempted to follow as you can see on screenshots below. 
If the assumption above is correct, I will still get to follow your bullet-point-tutorial in the future, as I maybe disconnecting ethernet and adding all devices to a hotspot network/mesh ASA I upgrade my Eero. Thanks for the time invested.

@Ken_Griffiths Thanks for adding the dB range. 

 

 


I started wondering if I was living in an alternate reality or why my attempts to navigate your path to SNR don’t match yours ...then I thought: this only works if one is fully relying on wi-fi and no Sonos device is plugged to ethernet correct?​​​​

Spot on @Multiculti, with one wired Sonos device you’re system is using SonosNet. That is the proprietary mesh network introduced ages ago by Sonos, at a time when home Wi-Fi gear was much less capable. There is a way to check signal strength in a SonosNet setup …

 

… if you are comfortable navigating the steps outlined in the video, you’ll get a good idea of which (if any) of your Sonos devices are experiencing weak(ish) connectivity. The color coding is super helpful, ‘natch.

Do you already own an Eero mesh Wi-Fi system? I’d certainly suggest vetting your current setup before purchasing any new gear.


Great to have video @press250  for the day I venture as I decide on next context for this house’s Sonos setup. 

Have 3 old Eero, J010001, a gift from years back. Recently bought one discounted Eero Pro6E as main connect to router, aware that the other 3 won’t be able to produce same capacity, and mostly using as filler wi-fi for weak spots. 

So, before carving calendar time to geek out after valuable video tutorial:
I may disconnect that one beam from router and go all wi-fi as soon as I update Eero mesh system (while running both wi-fi networks, as that has not caused trouble so far). I do wonder, if I was to keep beam plugged to router, if before recycling our two Boosts (yes two, previous habitat was an old condo with too many walls), could use them Boosts’ to connect a seldom-used old laptop that finds it difficult to jump on our wi-fi ...I know it is not intended to be used that way, but it’s a two-adult smart-household so other than one TV stream and one audio stream, plus mobiles, there’s not much competition for wi-fi internally.
Any insights on that @press250  ?

Sad to recycle those “as new”-old-boosts without giving them further use
...it puts a little stain on the $ono$ brand personally, and I have been a fan and organic brand ambassador for long.


I’d certainly check the status of your current SonosNet setup before switching to ‘regular’ Wi-Fi, if for no other reason than to have a comparative set of datapoints.

Re-using the Boosts is a non-starter, I’m afraid, as they are purely Sonos-specific. Even though SonosNet is Wi-Fi, it will not play with ‘regular’ Wi-Fi. 


I shall (get over the initial sweat drop that video tutorial learning curve triggers in my stretched calendar) and find out SonosNet status (minus the name, as no longer in use), keyword: datapoints🙏🏽

Hijacking Boost’s ethernet port vs Boost as Sonos-specific: I thought it was possible ↩️

...seemingly that is popular belief ↩️ albeit, at the risk of poor results

Interesting related lil’ blog roll:  https://www.the-ambient.com/how-to/sonos-ethernet-setup-bridge-boost-wifi-hardwired-guide-2874/

 

I wish I could replace all my old “onesies” (Sonos Play One, Sonos One, Sonos One SR) with Era 100, but no more Sonos Savings Fund transactions until they do a major major fixing of that app and the clock is ticking for such savings fund could be easily renamed. 


Hi @Multiculti, if you are running SonosNet you may be able to re-purpose your Boost(s) to get the old laptop connected. Personally, I would never want to run that Gauntlet of Grief ... when a USB to Wi-Fi adapter (dual band, 5GHz and 2.4GHz) from a reputable brand is less than $20. For illustrative purposes only: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0B1PZXNVZ


I gave my own Sonos Boost away around two years ago (approx.) - I don’t plan on returning to SonosNet v2  in its current form - it’s noticeably slooow, compared to modern day WiFi mesh networks.

FWIW - The Sonos products listed below can now use the much faster 5Ghz WiFi band - so if it’s practical to use that band with a WiFi mesh and have all Sonos device SNR levels of 45dB, or higher, then that’s become my own preference with a Sonos system…

  • Play:1
  • Play:3
  • Play:5 (Gen 2)
  • Five
  • Sub (Gen 1)
  • Sub (Gen 2)
  • Sub (Gen 3)
  • Sub Mini
  • Era 100
  • Era 300
  • Move
  • Move 2
  • Roam
  • Roam 2
  • Roam SL
  • One (Gen 1)
  • One (Gen 2)
  • One SL
  • Port
  • SYMFONISK Bookshelf (Gen 2)
  • SYMFONISK Floor lamp
  • SYMFONISK Picture frame
  • SYMFONISK Table lamp (Gen 2)
  • SYMFONISK Bookshelf (Gen 1)

 


Great to know @Ken_Griffiths , precisely the list I was looking for. 


And in new app, if not setup for “nameless” Sonos Net but wi-fi, one will be able to manage each device and “lean them towards” 5Ghz? yes? 
...if I remember correctly you indicated that in another recent comment on another post. 

Good to have the options learned here as even 5Ghz has pros and cons (narrower reach). 


Also, just checking since I was looking at different Eeros, Sonos is not on 6Ghz, correct?


I was screen-shopping/looking at pricey Eero Max 7 but there’s no point of having 10 gigabit speeds if one’s smart home is comfy paying, working well and living with 300 Mbps (fiber). 


I’d suggest the word ‘can’, not ‘do’, @Ken_Griffiths .

And some of them aren’t able to use both inbound and outbound 5Ghz at the same time (thinking about surrounds, which use the 5Ghz channel, although Subs may be a similar issue. 
 

Edit…I note that you don’t actually use the word do, but your prose could easily be interpreted that they only connect on 5Ghz…


I’d suggest the word ‘can’, not ‘do’, @Ken_Griffiths .

And some of them aren’t able to use both inbound and outbound 5Ghz at the same time (thinking about surrounds, which use the 5Ghz channel, although Subs may be a similar issue. 

Edited ..👍 (There’s no SNR levels shown in the App for ‘bonded’ Surrounds/Sub).


Heh. ;)


I suspect those ‘missing’ SNR levels are not passed through the proxy connection…but I’m guessing. 


Hi @Multiculti, you are correct that no Sonos devices use the 6GHz band (Wi-Fi 6E). Indeed, Sonos devices do not take advantage of Wi-Fi 6 (802.11ax) at all. That said, if you are going to spend the money on a new mesh Wi-Fi system it is worth buying yourself some ‘runway’ to keep it contemporary for some years. Take a close look at the Eero 6+ … a good combination of performance and future-proofing.

As an aside, the Eero Max 7 is reviewing very poorly so your instinct to stay away is solid.


Great to know @Ken_Griffiths , precisely the list I was looking for. 


And in new app, if not setup for “nameless” Sonos Net but wi-fi, one will be able to manage each device and “lean them towards” 5Ghz? yes? 
...if I remember correctly you indicated that in another recent comment on another post. 

Good to have the options learned here as even 5Ghz has pros and cons (narrower reach). 


Also, just checking since I was looking at different Eeros, Sonos is not on 6Ghz, correct?


I was screen-shopping/looking at pricey Eero Max 7 but there’s no point of having 10 gigabit speeds if one’s smart home is comfy paying, working well and living with 300 Mbps (fiber). 

It may depend on the router/mesh system setup, the WiFi (primary/satellite) Hubs position in relation to your Sonos products and/or the primary mesh router capabilities - I don’t know much about the Eero system, (but have heard good things about it), but many routers these days cater for manual band-steering and may allow you to steer the devices onto the 5Ghz band.  In my own case I had to move my network Hubs. I have a wired gigabit Ethernet network for backhaul to a main switch and the primary Hub/Router. The Ethernet network is linked to all the main rooms/floors of the Home.

Sonos products do not use the 6Ghz band - maybe new products will in the future… I just use a WiFi-6AX setup.


Good point @press250 

I bought an in-betweener Eero Pro 6E for almost half its current price on Prime Day. 
I am hoping to start replacing smart devices at home for those that can run on 6Ghz besides other frequencies. Not many in our present time (Sonos, Apple & Google Home ecosystems, with Alexa as a ‘guest ghost’ on Sonos, etc.). 

Ref. on Eero list.


Good point @press250 

I bought an in-betweener Eero Pro 6E for almost half its current price on Prime Day. 

Ahh, good for you @Multiculti, I certainly endorse the Eero Pro 6E as a “step up” that potentially buys you extra runway in the 6GHz band down the road. Out of curiosity, how many units (base + _ satellites) are in your kit? And roughly how big is your home?

 


Thx. Only 3 old Eero 2nd Gen J010001. 
Eero Pro 6 E will obviously replace the one connected and the others will act as extenders (aware of the lower speed/capacity limitation). Original AT&T router provides good speeds, 300+ dl, so just using the extra network to fill in weak spots (e.g. one faulty Cync GE bulb for a side door and a solar powered security camera above it) but as it grows I foresee it becoming the primary network. I see others turn off their main gateway’s router, though I don’t see a problem keeping both on. 

Habitat size roughly 1600 sq ft-J shaped-and big yards surrounding it. Insights?


For 1600 sq ft you should get very solid coverage with the base + one satellite. Does that match what you bought during Prime Day?

I’m not sure I understand your desired “end state” for Wi-Fi networking …

  • Are you thinking of mixing-a-matching Eero generations? I am not sure that will work at all, and even if it is possible you may end up with a wonky result.
  • Are you thinking of running multiple Wi-Fi systems in parallel? That would literally create your own interference, unless you are super-diligent about assigning non-conflicting Wi-Fi channels across the whole cornucopia.

I do a lot of Wi-Fi work and my overriding rulebook is “simpler is better.” If your new Eero Pro 6E includes a base + one satellite I would strongly counsel to use that as your one and only Wi-Fi system. Turn off the radio(s) in the legacy AT&T router and do not employ the legacy Eero units.


Thanks for the details @press250  ...I look at all deetz (above) when I set it up.
OK on “simpler is better”. I think AT&T gateway and Eero operate on different channels, regardless, your indication on only running one Wi-Fi system (radios off) is sound to my ears (pun?)

Yes it should match 🏡 lot size fine (lot’s of yard-horticultural work, where Move 2 is an ally).

Not sure if I will be initially able to add new Eero Pro 6E as an extension (as illogical as that may sound) for easy setup (mirroring) and later swap old base for new base ...maybe starting from the scratch creating the hotspot with new one connected to modem is better ha? Unfortunately for now I only bought one Eero Pro 6E as a base. I may buy others of the same model as savings allow ...switching Sonos savings fund to Eero for now ….priorities.

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Eero site indicates:
Eero Pro 6E 

With eero Pro 6E, you can future proof your connectivity with wifi that powers the latest Wi-Fi 6E-enabled devices. Unlike some mesh wifi systems, eero Pro 6E does not dedicate the 6 GHz band to backhaul. So your Wi-Fi 6E devices can take direct advantage of the additional 6GHz bandwidth and experience less congestion. The eero Pro 6E provides up to 2,000 sq ft of coverage per device, and supports network speeds up to 2.3 Gbps (a gigabit wired and 1.3 Gbps wireless). The eero Pro 6E is compatible with all supported previous eero models and with two auto-sensing Ethernet ports, it can be used as the gateway of an eero mesh wifi system, or a wireless extender to expand your existing eero network. Combining eero Pro 6E devices with older generation eero devices on the same network may result in reduced performance across your network.You will also need to use a Wi-Fi 6 (or in Canada, Wi-Fi 6E) compatible connected device to enjoy the full benefits of the eero Pro 6E.

 

Old ones (we have 3, model J010011)

eero

eero is the little router with a big wireless footprint. This economical option still gives you the great speed and coverage across your home that you’re used to.  eero offers up to 1500 sq ft of coverage per device and can be a great addition to expand an existing mesh wifi network. With the two auto-sensing Ethernet ports, it can also be used as the gateway of an eero mesh wifi system. One connects directly to the modem and the other port provides the option to hardwire devices like an Ethernet switch, printer, or video game console.
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I will remain aware that if things start acting wonky the old Eero units (just like possibly the two Sonos Boosts if datapoints are not favorable) may have to go  ...a voice whispers: planned obsolescence. Funny that this Sonos Community text menu lacks an EMOJI option for recycle, does it?

Advice appreciated.