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I have an argon turntable with preamp and the official Sonos line-in connection. Turntable connected, preamp functioning and line-in set up on the Era 100. Line in chosen as source and in the app linein is marked on the era 100 and the “sound icon shows music playing- but no sound. Volume turned up and down numerous times. Autoplay - tried both on and off,Cables checked, Sonos and app updated and every post here read and tried - no sound. Any tips? Turntable works with other amps/speakers, Era is functioning in the Sonos system and it is set up as a single unit. Picture showing the era 100, playing by line in
Setup: Laptop --> USBC-HDMI converter --> TV --> HDMI ARC --> Beam Gen 1 (with Era 100 surrounds).When using a USB-C to 4K60 HDMI Anker Nano hub, I only saw stereo as a supported format (or more precisely linear PCM 2.0). However, I knew my setup can do more. I used CRU tool to modify the EDID of my Sharp 55'TV HDMI to support 5.1 PCM (lots of other documentation on the web on how to do this so I won't go into the details. It's a matter of downloading some software, ticking some boxes, and restarting windows). Select 5.1 in Windows speaker configuration, and PCM output format (i.e. 16 bit 44 KHz or similar)Select Dolby Digital 5.1 (DD 5.1) as an output audio format on my TV, whose ARC (not E-ARC) port is linked to the Beam Gen 1 + Era 100 surrounds. If your Sonos device natively supports linear PCM 5.1, you just need to set it to bypass. This gave me 5.1 surround from all Windows sources. On my case, My Sharp TV is transcoding any input format (i.e. Atmos in version 1, L-PC
TLDR: HDMI 2.1 cable + Dolby Atmos for home theater (using Dolby Access Windows app) + Dolby 5.1 audio output TV setting.No external soundcard, no extra hardware, no APO driver hacking. Truly plug and play (with a few careful settings).Spent days trying to figure out how to how to connect my laptop --> USBC-HDMI converter --> TV --> HDMI ARC --> Beam Gen 1 (with Era 100 surrounds).Options considered / tried:0. Tried Dolby Access: configuration error, could not select Dolby Atmos for home theater1. Tried APO drivers + FX configurer (error: not supported)2. Tried HDMI audio extractor with HDMI audio out (replaces optical to HDMI converter) - only 2 channel3. Days away from buying Creative X4 USB soundcard and optical to HDMI converterThe eureka moment was when I bought an (USB-C to) HDMI 2.1 cable to get 4K60. I previously used an old (USB-C to) HDMI 1.4 cable. This new cable opened a Pandora's box of supported formats.Old HDMI 1.4 cable (Amazon Basics): Only PCMHDMI 2.1 cabl
I've disassembled my Sonos ZP90 ZonePlayer to replace some capacitors on the power board that I believe are preventing it from powering on. However, when I got inside and inspected the board more closely, I spotted a couple of things I'd like to get some advice on. The red circles show where some solder has bridged between some components. Is this intentional? Would this be enough to stop it working? Can anyone check their power board to see if they have the same? On the left, the three pins are for a TLV43 transistor.Thanks
I’ve been using Sonos amp with 2 speakers on my deck for several years and now it’s no longer working. Flashing white light. I unplugged amp, plugged it back in and pressed button on back until it turned green. I then entered the serial number from amp to the Sonos app and it said it was now connected again. When I tried playing music with deck speakers the white light started flashing again on the amp. HELP 😞
I followed the instruction on downgrading (Swedish version) and they are not entirely correct.https://support.sonos.com/sv-se/article/downgrade-a-sonos-product-to-s1For starters there are important aspects missing in the information. There are steps not described where you have to guess, the big one is the connect to wifi at the end. Am I supposed to do that or not? No info. Answer is yes, connect to wifi.Then there’s step 5 where I was supposed to “swipe away” a pop up window. That was not really possible on the iPad version. I tried many times swiping but the window would not go away. It had to be solved by going out of the application and in again.Then we have the step where a code from the Port is supposed to be entered. The design is complete disaster, see image. Almost completely transparent and numers 3, 6 and 9 almost unreachable. I mean come on, have you even tried yourself to follow these instructions and steps like a novice to confirm it’s correct and works?There’s “room fo
Hi, two of my Sonos One Gen 2 failed, one of the speakers powers on but sounds choppy when playing bass; upon opening it, capacitor C285 is broken. The second speaker doesn't power on and the area where capacitor C285 is located is burned, do you have any advice on values or something useful, knows if this is repairable?
I have a wired amp, Move, Move2, Era300 and Roam. All speakers are visible in the app. When I play music, I can play it on Move, Move2, Era300 and Roam but not on the AMP. I also tried playing something only on the AMP and then selecting more speakers and I can’t get all speakers to play. I have reset ever speaker, unplugged router, unplugged AMP. Sucks that this software and system has issues like this.
Hi there, I have a Sonos setup with the arc, two subwoofers, and the amp which is outputting to two Sonos ceiling speakers/surrounds. Recently I decided to buy a record player (audio technica lp120) and was hoping to use the line in ports on the amp to connect it to my system. What I’ve found is that when the amp is being used to control surround speakers it cannot function as a line in supply at the same time? I was initially able to overcome this by creating a second home speaker group, with only the amp (and the other had the arc and subs) and could output the signal from the record player to play on all of the speakers - but then the surround speakers don’t function properly when I go back to use my tv (and I also lose volume function of the surround speakers with my tv) is there an fairly inexpensive or easy way to overcome this? My thoughts are to get a Sonos connect to output the signal from the record player to the system? The AI support for Sonos suggests me buying another
I have 3 amps. When I move them downstairs beside the wifi the app fails to see them. When they are in the living room the app sees them. When they are in the basement the eventually have a solid white led. Any ideas?
Our house music system is a combination of Play 1 and 3 (generation that works with current app I think 2).We’d like to add a turntable as cheaply as possible without sacrificing music quality, probably secondhand from eBay. What would you suggest? My partner has bidding on Play 5 Gen 2 but these get quite expensive even used. Will other Sonos components connect to a turntable?The other aspect is I’m finding fewer apps are connecting directly to the Sonos system, I have to play via the Sonos app. Which is the cheapest/oldest speaker/component that connects to Airplay?
Hi @Everyone - looking for advice to add a turntable to my setup: I do not own one yet, so pretty open minded; having said that I like the Pro-Ject turnables, and I understand that the T2 W has a pre-amp and WIFI connectivity which seems perfect to stream to Sonos speakers.I cannot find the T2 W on the Sonos UK site, but found it here: https://www.richersounds.com/pro-ject-t2-w-black/My current Sonos setup with 2x Era300, 2x Era100, Sub4, and soundbar ultra across my lounge, dinning and open plan kitchen. All speakers are wall mounted (except from the sub obviously), so not an “easy” job if I was to put a cable to connect a turnable to one of them.Questions:Is there an option to connect a turntable wirelessly to Sonos to avoid having to add another Era100 to wire it in? Is the T2 W not available via Sonos, and is there not a “cheaper” option to buy a T2 and connect it to a Sonos compatible streamer instead? Beyond Pro-Ject, any other suggestions?BR, Lio
I am trying to connect my new UGREEN NAS to SONOS. After typing in the NAS path and folder the following message appears:The computer (path name)refused to let the SONOS product connect to it.How can I overcome this problem.Any help would be greatly appreciated.Rudolf
How can I connect my Beam to a windows computer having an S/PDIF audio socket?
Hi-How can I connect my audio-technical AT-LP60 to my Sonos beam (which is also connected to two Sonos 1)?
Can someone tell me if there’s a cheaper way to connect an era 100 to a turntable that doesn’t have bluetooth
Dear all, I’ve recently purchased the second ERA 100 for better stereo imaging. If a single one blew me away, eventually, two will set it to stratosphere…Anyway, I am a vinyl afficionado and would like to listen to LPs. I also have a substantial CD collection that I don’t want to get rid of.I bought the Sonos line in adapter and it works perfectly for the CD. Concerning the Turntable, I have a an integrated amp (Advance Acoustics MAP 305 DA II) that has a line out. This means I am able to connect the Turntable and CD into the amp and feed the Sonos via the Line in adapter.So, instead of having to switch on the amp every time I want to listen to the above sources, I was thinking about a sort of an RCA hub to connect all the sources (phono pre-amp included) via the Sonos line in adapter to one of the 100s. I´ve seen some equipment online but I am quite unaware of any specific or reference quality model.Ultimately, I can buy another Sonos line in adapter and connect it to the other ERA 10
I have a Sonos 300 that works well with my PC.I have a Victrola Stream that used to work with the Era 300 but now doesn’t.The Victrola app finds and lists the Sonos speaker correctly but there is no output.
Hello forum, my 15+ year old Beolab 8000 speakers (active/built in amps) are still excellent as is the 10+ year old Sonos Connect (1st gen) - however, since I moved the system the BeoLabs are constantly switching on/off intermittently even though the Connect is not activated, This is a new phenomenon since a year or so. I checked cables (very simple RCA type, worked for many years), moving the Connect around and also that the plugs are firmly in their sockets - any ideas are highly appreciated.
HiI’m wondering, how do I get the Sonos Five to not go on standby on line in? The default behavior is that the Sonos stops playing within 30 seconds or so if it doesn’t detect a signal. However, getting out of standby takes a good 2-5 seconds. I’m using the Five pair as computer speakers and it is incredibly annoying to use them on video calls because the speaker keeps going on standby and I miss the first 2-3 seconds every time the other person talks. I’ve found that if I go to “Your Sources” → line-in → select Sonos Five, then it would avoid going on standby for longer, maybe an hour? But then it goes on standby again, and I have to do this again. How do I stop the speaker from going on standby? I want it to be always on so I never miss the first few seconds of audio whenever I play something. Thanks
YouTube and Spotify both use Opus (Vorbis container) as their main codec, using AAC (MP4/M4A container) as a lower quality fallback.YouTube also only offers it's Stable Volume feature in Opus, via DRC. The current situation means it cannot be passed through to Sonos and needs to be transcoded first.Please add Opus, it needs minimal decoding power, is much more modern than either mp3 or aac, and is not patent encumbered.This has been requested for years now, two examples: - https://en.community.sonos.com/controllers-and-music-services-229131/why-is-sonos-ignoring-opus-support-6888615- https://en.community.sonos.com/home-theater-229129/how-come-the-application-is-not-showing-me-the-opus-codec-6882697
The system has been mostly functional, but last night—of course, with a house full of people—it completely fell apart. The standard Sonos response was the predictable “it’s your network,” which is nonsense. It has never been my network. This is a small-business-grade enterprise system running security (including cameras and door entry), HVAC, lighting, and general Wi-Fi without a single issue. Sonos is the only thing that consistently struggles.I’m then told that multiple Port units need to be registered. Fine. I follow that path and immediately hit the requirement for precise location services to be enabled. For a wired streaming device. Completely unacceptable—but at this point I just want the system functional and don’t feel like sacrificing an entire weekend to troubleshooting. Even then, each unit takes multiple attempts before it finally registers.To make matters worse, the system only identifies devices by serial number, not by name or location. These units are installed across
Hi, Valued Community.I’ve connected my Technics 1210 to an Eros 100. This is by a phono cable to a usb-c via my preampHowever when I check for playback options in my sonos app everything is greyed out.. Please help, Thanks
Question: How do I keep my line-in audio source playing to the entire house while flipping a record instead of having it disconnect from the Sonos group? I recently switched my turntable (AT-LP60XBT) from a Bluetooth connection to a line-in connection. (After adding a couple more speakers around the house the BT connection was starting to fail and drop speakers off, I assume due to the delay.)(With the line in 3.5 to USB-C)When I start a record, the music automatically comes out of my era 100 fine. I then go in the app and select the rest of the house, which plays fine. Almost 100% of the time, when the record stops and needs to be flipped, the audio reverts back to only the Era 100 that the line in is plugged into. This is complicated by the fact that in the app, the line in is still connected to the entire house (5 speakers) and does not update. So then I force quit the app to reset it, and when first opened, the app seems to come alive and connect to my system fine but does not show
Hi, Valued Community.If I connect my Technics 1210 deck to an Eros speaker will I then be able to play to stream to my other Sonos speakers in the house e.g. my Play 5’s and Play 3’s via the Sonos app?Thanks!!
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