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I am adding a new zone to an existing multizone setup. This will be a zone connected to a home theater receiver, to allow the home theater speakers to be used as a Sonos zone when the TV is not in use. The consultant I am working with has spec'ed a Sonos Connect for this setup. I have an old ZP80 that I am not currently using. Can I put that in, instead of buying a Connect? The rest of the system uses ZP90's connected to amps and ZP100s connected directly to speakers. Also, if I use the 80s and 100s in my system, will I have any compatibility issues if I want to add new units later, such as SUBs or PLAY:1 (or :3 or :5)? Thanks for your help.
You can use the ZP80, which is the previous version of the Connect.  The only difference between the ZP80 and the ZP90/Connect (Connect is just a rebadged ZP90) is the ZP80 uses Sonosnet 1 vs. Zp90 uses Sonosnet 2 (think of it as WiFi 'g' vs. WiFi 'n').  In all other aspects they are identical.
Thanks for the quick reply. Sounds like I can use the ZP80 and can add new SUB and/or PLAY:x without any issues. Very helpful.
You can use the ZP80, which is the previous version of the Connect.  The only difference between the ZP80 and the ZP90/Connect (Connect is just a rebadged ZP90) is the ZP80 uses Sonosnet 1 vs. Zp90 uses Sonosnet 2 (think of it as WiFi 'g' vs. WiFi 'n').  In all other aspects they are identical.

This is interesting.  So while not the same -- they will function the same within their limits.  Seems like the ZP90 will have longer wireless range?  But that would only matter in a few cases?
You can use the ZP80, which is the previous version of the Connect.  The only difference between the ZP80 and the ZP90/Connect (Connect is just a rebadged ZP90) is the ZP80 uses Sonosnet 1 vs. Zp90 uses Sonosnet 2 (think of it as WiFi 'g' vs. WiFi 'n').  In all other aspects they are identical.

Are there really no other differences?  



My two ZP80 -- even when wired, or within 20 feet of my wired Play1 -- loses it's connection/disappears from the system/network several times a day.  



On the other hand, both of my Play1's are rock solid, always present, without hiccups.
Just a note:  You can not bond the Sub with the ZP80.   You can bond the Sub with a Play:x and group with the ZP80 and then the Sub would be outputting with all (connect feeding full range to your amplifier and Play:x being fed highs, mid, with its lows going to SUB).



Just realize if you have a ZP80 hooked to an existing receiver.  You can't bond Sub with the ZP80 and then it pass mid's and high's to your receiver and low end to the Sonos Sub.



http://www.sonos.com/documents/productguides/EN/SubGuide_EN.pdf
You can use the ZP80, which is the previous version of the Connect.  The only difference between the ZP80 and the ZP90/Connect (Connect is just a rebadged ZP90) is the ZP80 uses Sonosnet 1 vs. Zp90 uses Sonosnet 2 (think of it as WiFi 'g' vs. WiFi 'n').  In all other aspects they are identical.

Are there really no other differences?  



My two ZP80 -- even when wired, or within 20 feet of my wired Play1 -- loses it's connection/disappears from the system/network several times a day.  



On the other hand, both of my Play1's are rock solid, always present, without hiccups.




The op is talking about zp80 versus 90 but the issue you are talking about is something different. Sonos support can advise. They can look at the logs and figure it out. I had that issue and it was a hardware failure.


Are there really no other differences?  



My two ZP80 -- even when wired, or within 20 feet of my wired Play1 -- loses it's connection/disappears from the system/network several times a day.  



On the other hand, both of my Play1's are rock solid, always present, without hiccups.




CONNECT and ZP90's use more effective radios. If you are on the edge with respect to interference or range, CONNECT and ZP90's will perform better. PLAY:1's radio is similar to CONNECT's radio. BOOST's radio and the new PLAY:5's radios are more advanced.
Currently, I stream music from my pc to a set of P5s and P1s. I also want to stream from youtube etc. I was told I can buy a Connect and pipe my PC audio out via RCA adaptors to feed the Connect. Sounds easy.



Questions:(IBM PC with Netgear nitehawk router)

1. Can I buy a used Z80 or Z90? They are WAY cheaper. I understand the difference is the network protocol. My PC is pretty close to the router.

My goal is to get rid of the PC speakers I have now and replace them with one Play1 AND have the option of using the nearby play5s paired with sub.

Will the sub be a problem for the 80 or 90? (it's already paired with the play5s)

2. I have the PC hard wired to the router. Can I split the Ethernet cable with some type of splitter device? That way I'd be hard wired.
Currently, I stream music from my pc to a set of P5s and P1s. I also want to stream from youtube etc. I was told I can buy a Connect and pipe my PC audio out via RCA adaptors to feed the Connect. Sounds easy.



Questions:(IBM PC with Netgear nitehawk router)

1. Can I buy a used Z80 or Z90?




Yes, as stated previously they are functionally identical (the ZP90 IS identical to the Connect in fact, only the name was changed).



My goal is to get rid of the PC speakers I have now and replace them with one Play1 AND have the option of using the nearby play5s paired with sub.

Will the sub be a problem for the 80 or 90? (it's already paired with the play5s)




No the sub won't be a problem, it'll remain bonded to the Play:5s, nothing will change in terms of operation. What you do need to be aware of is that by going down this route you will introduce a 70ms delay on the audio, so it will be behind any video you might be watching on the PC. There is nothing you can do about that.



2. I have the PC hard wired to the router. Can I split the Ethernet cable with some type of splitter device? That way I'd be hard wired.




No, you can't split ethernet cables, buy another one, they're dirt cheap (or should be don't pay any sort of money for a short length) and either wire the ZP directly to the router or if you don't have any free ports unplug the PC, plug the ZP into the router and then plug the PC into one of the spare ports on the ZP (the 90 has two ports, the 80 has 4, it makes no difference either way). Bear in mind this will cause the PC's network speed to drop to the speed of the ZPs ports, which are 100Mbit/s, however if your router is only 100Mbit/s you won't be making any difference anyway.
Thanks for all the info! BTW, I didn't mean cut the cable, I meant buy a 1x2 plastic adapter like this:

http://www.sfcable.com/1021-SF-01.html?gclid=CjwKEAiAiZK1BRD509nPsYiUk2YSJAAMoAwCUj0mAso926q2w2kTs1EI7DD0yrJ8Ows2RKkBD_t0ORoCfAbw_wcB



Anyway, your suggestion is better. How can I determine the speed of my connection although I suspect is NOT faster then 100Mbit/s?



>>Yes, as stated previously they are functionally identical (the ZP90 IS identical to the Connect in fact, only the name was changed).

I thought they operated on different network standards? Would It matter?
BTW, I didn't mean cut the cable, I meant buy a 1x2 plastic adapter like this:

http://www.sfcable.com/1021-SF-01.html?gclid=CjwKEAiAiZK1BRD509nPsYiUk2YSJAAMoAwCUj0mAso926q2w2kTs1EI7DD0yrJ8Ows2RKkBD_t0ORoCfAbw_wcB


FWIW those cable economisers have to be used in pairs. They exploit the fact that there are eight cores in an Ethernet cable and 100Mbps only requires four. They can therefore cram two separate connections down the one cable run. They can't make a single router Ethernet port magically support two devices.
How can I determine the speed of my connection although I suspect is NOT faster then 100Mbit/s?



I don't mean your internet connection, I mean the ports on your router.



>>Yes, as stated previously they are functionally identical (the ZP90 IS identical to the Connect in fact, only the name was changed).

I thought they operated on different network standards? Would It matter?




Nope, no more than it does when you have a bridge in the system that works on the same older standard.
Great info, THANKS guys! So, I guess I'll buy a Z80 for my meager application and see how it goes.



Aside; how do you guys like the Sonos long term? I keep running in to these people saying how awful the company is . . .greedy, no support, intentionally "pushing" upgrades until the system is instable . . . Should I be worried? I LIKE the product so far and want to buy more.

TomJV
I've had my system for 8 years. It's been as stable as a concrete doorstop. On the very few occasions I needed support, they've been outstanding. You are going to get a few unhappy campers, but they are always going to be there with any product.
Great news jgatie,

Thanks!

TomJV
Great info, THANKS guys! So, I guess I'll buy a Z80 for my meager application and see how it goes.



Aside; how do you guys like the Sonos long term? I keep running in to these people saying how awful the company is . . .greedy, no support, intentionally "pushing" upgrades until the system is instable . . . Should I be worried? I LIKE the product so far and want to buy more.

TomJV




Have you been happy with using the ZP80 in your system?



I want to introduce a line-in into my system (mainly for Chromecast Audio) and need to decide whether to get a Connect or save some pennies and go for a used ZP80.
First, the quote about Sonos being greedy, pushing upgrades etc absolutely astonishes me and is a million miles from the truth. Software and firmware upgrades are free and often significant, and the company's record on maintaining back-compatibility is second to none. Support is excellent in my experience.



I thought the Connect was just a renaming of the ZP80, although maybe there was an upgrade at some point. I'm sure someone else will clarify that.



Do you need both a Connect and a Chromecast? What do you have in your Sonos system at the moment and what do you want to stream through the Chromecast?
Connect is a rebadging of the ZP90, which was an upgrade to the ZP80. The main difference between the two is the 'n' based Sonosnet 2.0 wireless in the newer models.


Do you need both a Connect and a Chromecast? What do you have in your Sonos system at the moment and what do you want to stream through the Chromecast?




At the moment I only I have a single Play:1. Been trying out for about a year, and now its time to expand. Will probably get 3 or 4 more speakers.



I find the constraints of the Sonos controller both a blessing and a curse. A blessing because non-technical members of the household find it extremely easy to use. This (as well as stability) is a key reason I think I will expand the Sonos system instead of switching to a full Google Cast system



However, I'm a bit more demanding than those that I live with and want some freedom from the constraints, hence interest in integrating Google Cast with Sonos.

One thing I dislike is the podcast options within Sonos. I want to use my preferred podcasts solution (PocketCasts), who support Google Cast but not Sonos.

Another reason is I like tracking my listening history via last.fm. If I connect last.fm to the Sonos, everyone's listening history gets recorded in my last.fm account, which spoils the recommendations. If I route my music via a Chromecast I can isolate my listening history.
Connect is a rebadging of the ZP90, which was an upgrade to the ZP80. The main difference between the two is the 'n' based Sonosnet 2.0 wireless in the newer models.



Have people been noticing a tangible benefit with Sonosnet 2.0?

If you have a single device that's not Sonosnet 2.0, does the whole network drop down?

I currently use a bridge, which I understand does not support Sonosnet 2.0.



Out of curiosity, is there page anywhere that lists every Sonos device ever sold and notes which support Sonosnet 2.0?
All Sonos devices are compatible with each other. As a matter of fact, the Bridge is Sonosnet 1.0, so it certainly works with Sonosnet 1.0. The main difference between 1.0 and 2.0 is range. If you have much distance between units, the 2.0 units will be more reliable than 1.0.



All current devices are 2.0. 1.0 devices are the Bridge, the ZP80 and ZP100.
@osm. If you are planning on buying more speakers, and need a line-in, you might consider investing in a gen2 Play:5 as part of your setup. It's the best speaker Sonos has produced and you would not need the ZP80 or Connect.
@osm. If you are planning on buying more speakers, and need a line-in, you might consider investing in a gen2 Play:5 as part of your setup. It's the best speaker Sonos has produced and you would not need the ZP80 or Connect.



Thanks. Yes, I am aware and am going to go to a store to listen to one.

But avoiding the Play:5 allows me to cover more of my house on my current budget, and I doubt I will ever need the full power of the Play:5
"The main difference between 1.0 and 2.0 is range. If you have much distance between units, the 2.0 units will be more reliable than 1.0."

Is it the distance between units what matters or is it the distance to the source router?
"The main difference between 1.0 and 2.0 is range. If you have much distance between units, the 2.0 units will be more reliable than 1.0."

Is it the distance between units what matters or is it the distance to the source router?
SonosNet communications are between Sonos devices in a mesh network, so 'between units' is correct. Anywhere where the path involves a 1.0 leg might be weaker than it would be over 2.0. I would guess that in a very large proportion of cases this is of no practical significance.