I think I've made an expensive mistake.

Good early morning. Here anyway.

First, keep in mind that when we first set this up everything worked.

Been thinking about what's going on with this system and this is the result. Probably obvious as can be, but in the middle of trying to track down what I have decided are multiple problems, things get confusing and the symptoms get muddled.

I can now play music from Amazon using my PC and Android devices. This tells me that the "path" from the Internet to the speakers is functional. Both speakers. I am pretty sure that means there is not a problem with settings in the router. At least for that function. Password setting in the speakers is correct as well. Which is something that bugs me. I have yet to find a place to check that in the Sonos app. Can someone direct me to where I can look at the Sonos settings re: the router?

What won't work is the Alexa software. And the confusing part is that it will see the left speaker, but not the right one. I have done the Forget in Alexa, removed the Sonos skill, re-enabled the Sonos skill, and added the speakers back. And Alexa only finds the one speaker. What I haven't done is remove voice recognition per this:

- In the Alexa app, select 'Skills' and disable the Sonos Skill;
- In the Alexa app (PC version), select 'Smart Home' then 'Devices';
- Select 'Forget All' at the bottom of the screen;
- In the Sonos app, select 'Settings' and for each of the Sonos 1's remove 'Voice Recognition';

During all of this I have never found Remove Voice Recognition. The obvious reason is that since things are not working correctly that menu item is not being displayed. You know, "That item isn't needed since there is no voice recognition active." If that is true then the person/group that thought removing was a good idea are dolts. I've written code for menu systems, technical manuals, etc blah blah blah. The first rule I always used was a single word. Consistency. If the feature is not available grey it out. Removing it only confuses new users that are usually struggling already. Side tracking them because a menu item they expect to find is is missing is criminal. On the other hand I could be wrong, lol.

It looks like there is perhaps a problem with the right speaker itself. I can't think of anything that would cause the results I see except that. It's the one I had to fight with to be recognized during Add a Surround. I finally connected it to the router with a cable and got it recognized. That leads me to thinking there is a problem with the wireless function, but since it plays music I don't feel that's the case.

I'm asking for input.

What would cause the right speaker to play music but not be seen by Alexa software.

Is the remove voice recognition menu item somewhere I'm not finding, or is my assumption correct regard removing it when not active. Man that would be a stupid thing to do.

Tell me the path music takes from Amazon Music. I assume it goes directly to the speakers. I say this because I've started it playing on the PC and shut down the PC with music continuing to play.

Router settings. Would one of you take the time to share your knowledge and do a write up of the basic steps to resolve router issues. Just tossing out generalities seems like a good idea, but those of us who aren't familiar with router configuration are still lost. For those of you who understand this more that I do I would ask; Does the following make sense. If so, do I need to somehow find these ports and "turn them on" so to speak?

Below are the ports that Sonos uses:

TCP/IP:
80 (Internet Radio, updates and registration)
443 (Rhapsody, Napster, and SiriusXM)
445 (CIFS)
3400 (incoming UPnP events - Sonos Controller App for Mac or PC)
3401 (Sonos Controller App for iOS)
3445 (OS X File Sharing)
3500 (Sonos Controller App for Android)
4070 (Spotify incoming events)
4444 (Sonos update process)

UDP:
136-139 (NetBIOS)
1900 (UPnP events and device detection)
1901 (UPnP responses)
2869, 10243, 10280-10284 (Windows Media Player NSS)
5353 (Spotify Control)
6969 (Initial configuration)

Note: When configuring a software firewall, the above ports will require inbound access.

That's about it. I'll probably think of something else not too long after I post this. I usually do.

Going through things again. I uninstalled Alexa on my phone and reinstalled it as mentioned by AjTrek1. I disabled the Sonos Skill then re-enabled it. Did a Discovery and found no new devices. But I noticed that in Settings (Alexa) I see both speakers, and they are both shown as online. Not sure if this means Alexa will now work, and I can't test it because my wife is still asleep.

Patience, patience, patience.

.. I can't test it because my wife is still asleep.

Patience, patience, patience.

Go on, wake her up 😃

Oh yeah. Smart move! 🆒

Head scratching. I went back through the Alexa routine again. This time it found both speakers and Alexa is working.

The only thing I can think of that might have change is that I uninstalled Alexa, re-installed, then went trough the add ability, etc.

And while I'm typing it played 1 1/2 Doors songs and stopped. It did restart when I asked to play the doors again.

Aaaaand it stopped partway through the first song.

I guess I'm still screwed.

Playing through Sonos app on the PC it went through quite a few songs and I had Alexa stop it. I then asked Alexa to play Jefferson Airplane and it's also playing quite a few, but I wonder if it's picking up from the Sonos app. I'm looking for a sign out in the app. If I find one I'll start over with Alexa. Next test - The Doors again. House cleaners showed up. It'll be a couple of hours.

You don’t want to sign out...you want to Clear the Queue. Come to think of it you may want to do that for all your speakers.

In the Sonos app expand the song that’s playing or what shows as last played or the room to reveal the Volume Slider. To the right of the volume slider you’ll see two horizontal lines...tap them to reveal the Queue. Your options at the bottom will be Clear, Edit and Save. The choice is obvious but I’ll write it anyway...Select Clear. 🆒 Cheers!

I've started a new thread because someone marked this one answered and it is obvious it hasn't been. I assume that once it's marked that no one will "un-mark" it.

New thread is at https://en.community.sonos.com/amazon-alexa-and-sonos-229102/sonos-one-problems-6797920

There is nothing to clear...

You don’t want to sign out...you want to Clear the Queue. Come to think of it you may want to do that for all your speakers.

In the Sonos app expand the song that’s playing or what shows as last played or the room to reveal the Volume Slider. To the right of the volume slider you’ll see two horizontal lines...tap them to reveal the Queue. Your options at the bottom will be Clear, Edit and Save. The choice is obvious but I’ll write it anyway...Select Clear. 🆒 Cheers!

AjTrek1, I want to tell you I appreciate the effort made by you on these forums.

That said, you are wrong.

I disagree for a number of reasons. The first being that Sonos has undertaken a project to build these speakers, but has also ignored the fact that 99.9% of users do not have the knowledge to adjust their router settings. I'm an old tech guy and I cringe every time I'm told I have to do it.

Just because you're a whiz with adjusting your settings doesn't mean everyone else is.

You (or someone - I can't keep track) said to dump UPnP. Take a look at this list that is one a Sonos web page. While we are being told that we should remove UPnP in these threads Sonos is telling us we need it. Someone needs to make up their mind exactly what it is users need to do. Those that have the ability to slog their way through routers settings, that is.

Below are the ports that Sonos uses:

TCP/IP:
80 (Internet Radio, updates and registration)
443 (Rhapsody, Napster, and SiriusXM)
445 (CIFS)
3400 (incoming UPnP events - Sonos Controller App for Mac or PC)
3401 (Sonos Controller App for iOS)
3445 (OS X File Sharing)
3500 (Sonos Controller App for Android)
4070 (Spotify incoming events)
4444 (Sonos update process)

UDP:
136-139 (NetBIOS)
1900 (UPnP events and device detection)
1901 (UPnP responses)
2869, 10243, 10280-10284 (Windows Media Player NSS)
5353 (Spotify Control)
6969 (Initial configuration)

Sonos cannot possibly in a million years anticipate the multiplicity of network setups that consumers will have in their homes.

Remember, you can always call Sonos if you don’t mind the wait.

These two statements clearly reflect the real problem if true. You tell me that Sonos can't possibly know what to do with network setups, then you tell me to call them. If they can't fix my network problems (assuming that is the problem) then why should i wait an unreasonable amount of time on hold just to be told they can't help.

Until there is a clear explanation of the basics of router configuration with regards to the Sonos system posted on this site your arguments are meaningless. I'm not saying they have to go into detail for every router out there, but a simple explanation would likely suffice for a great number of users.

Stating where a problem lies with no help offered other than having a kid down the street fix it is not only condescending, it's a cop out.

Not to rain on someone’s parade…but I guess I am.

Reference to Firewall’s specs set by Norton. Norton is a SOFTWARE running on a computer. All of the Norton settings made are resident to that one piece of hardware and affects only how it (the computer) will interact with traffic over one’s network.

Conversely, Sonos performance relative to Norton are only affected when using the Sonos App resident on that computer. If using the Sonos App on an iPhone or compatible tablet the settings made to the Norton software on the computer have no influence over how Sonos performs.

The only configuration that would globally affect Sonos performance (using a computer, iPhone or tablet) with respect to a firewall or port settings would be those made at the HARDWARE level or more specifically at the ROUTER.

I have an Asus AC5300 Router Tri-Band router and it’s locked down tighter than a melted engine block. I have no problems streaming on any of my Wi-Fi enabled devices. I also run BitDefender on my computers with Windows Defender adjusted down to a secondary periodic background scan. My point being that having an understanding of how Wi-Fi works (or router configuration) solves/prevents a multitude of issues. I might also add that I use a Boost Component (not a speaker) setup with my Sonos which is what I always recommend. Some will use a Sonos speaker to accomplish the Boost but I prefer the dedicated Boost component.

What I have been leading up to is….

This is a great forum to get help and learn about Sonos. However, a lot of the finger pointing at Sonos IMO is unwarranted. The majority of the issues by my observation always come back to two things:

Lack of user knowledge which is one reason why this forum exists (we all have learn); and the biggest one IMO_NETWORK issues.

Network issues are always going to be the prime suspect. However, blaming Sonos is not going to resolve the problem. Sonos cannot possibly in a million years anticipate the multiplicity of network setups that consumers will have in their homes. The UPnP (Universal Plug n’ Play) touted by manufacturers of networking equipment is the biggest misnomer since it was believed that the Sun revolved around the Earth. The Sonos speaker is a relatively simple setup it’s the networks that cause the issues.

To be fair I will allow that Sonos has made a few missteps with the Sonos App upgrades. People don’t like change…but guess what…change is inevitable. It’s the price we pay for improvements and progress.

Bottom-line…understanding networking is key. If you don’t understand it that’s OK…get help from a friend or the neighbors kid down the street. Remember, you can always call Sonos if you don’t mind the wait. Cheers!