Repair ZP120

That's a bummer. Which Hakko do you use? I need a hot air tool. Crazy range in prices.
Remind me what your Amp was doing, or how it was failing?

That's a bummer. Which Hakko do you use? I need a hot air tool. Crazy range in prices.
Remind me what your Amp was doing, or how it was failing?

I use the hakko 851 -- it is one of their pricier ones. I have nothing to compare it to, because it is all I have ever used. My amp was the blinking white light. After debug I found that it was stuck in the bootloader due to the dram memory test failing.

Figured this would be a good thread to piggyback onto.

Anyone have a zp120 parts unit they want to sell?
I have a unit with a bad top board (must have gotten hit from lightening on the ethernet.)
Almost every component I pull is shorted.

I do have a good power/amp board if I cant find a controller/wifi board to marry it.

Thanks,
jason

I've got an Connect:Amp that I bought for parts and trying to repair. 10 Ohm resistor totally burned up and charged the board. Replaced that, the fuse, the PWM and a cap that was puffing at the top. I've got voltage on the PWM but nothing on the secondary side at all. I've pulled D16016 and it gives me continuity in both directions so first this is to replace that. Does anyone know the specs on this diode? 15V, 3A? What about the package type? Just need to order some from digikey.

Also, my CPU_GND and 36V GND test points are not buzzing out as shorted. Does this indicate there are other components blown on that side of the transformer? I get no voltages on that side of the transformer BUT I am using a crappy craftsman DMM that probably doesn't work for reading the fast switching voltages on this board.

Any help would be appreciated!

Thanks,
Dan

I have a Connect that forgets its configuration. It worked on ethernet but when it was moved to a location that required wifi, it just wouldn't stay connected. After that, it wouldn't stay configured on ethernet either. Sonos made a ridiculous repair offer. For another $60 I could buy a new one. Anyway, does this sound like a logic board problem? I'm thinking on buying a parts unit to see if I can get it working. Any thoughts?
Philip

Hey Dan (danrowland),
Can you tell me more about that diode. I dont know them by refdes, more by function.
The CPU_GND and 36V GND are supposed to be tied together, in fact they often blow open and then the biases are not referenced to each other and nothing works.

So if you replaced the PWM and the 10 ohm, then are you getting high voltage on the PWM drain pin?
You should be getting 300ish V across the 2 big storage caps on the primary side. (if I remember correct). If you are not then you still have problems in the rectifier and storage section just before the bias PWM.

There is also an opto in the bias converter feedback that can blow, also the bias converters bias winding storage cap that can cause it to not work.

Hope this helps.

Hello,
I read a lot of things but my English is limited, so I will explain my problem.
I have a ZP100 that works from 3 to 40 minutes when it is turned on, then there is more music and it disappears from the application ....

The problem is already may have happened to one of you, and if so how to solve it?

Thank you very much.