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I know it’s been some time, but I have a zp100 and it is blinking a constant white light, never going solid. I have the unit completely torn down and I’ve found 2 possible charred components.
Hello, I read a lot of things but my English is limited, so I will explain my problem. I have a ZP100 that works from 3 to 40 minutes when it is turned on, then there is more music and it disappears from the application ....
The problem is already may have happened to one of you, and if so how to solve it?
Thank you very much.
I just disassembled and add thermal dough to the amplification circuits and it seems to work properly now ...
Well, I was able to change the DRAM out without much issue. I used kapton, some foil, and the hakko hot air rework. Then I cleaned the pads and put new parts down. Unfortunately, it did not fix it. That pretty much confirms that the issue is probably a cracked solder ball under the BGA, or head-in-pillow or some other similar type defect. I thought about putting it in the xray but it is so hard to see some of these defects and regardless of what I found, it was not repairable.
Any chance you remember what dram you ordered? What amp do you have the CP 100 or the ZP 120?
Add me to the list of non-working ZP-120, I’ve read through this thread many times trying to gather as much information as possible.At this point the unit, which I purchased at a swap meet, and had never been opened, will not power on. I did find a open 5A fuse but replacing it didn’t make any difference. There are no obvious damage and I have checked the usually diodes and transistors for shorts. Everything I am seeing for in circuit test looks good.
I think I may eventually map out the schematic and post here but for now I have traced the 110ac input all the way to the first bridge rectifier, from ground the positive side of the rectifier is 60vdc and -60 to the negative side. Which seem reasonable..this is where I’m not to sure to go after this.
New Information:
I knew I was in the right place, L16004 is bad, the question is, can I source this part or is it custom? Maybe I can unwrap it a bit and re-insulate...
If no source does anyone have one from a parts unit? Thanks!