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Hello gruve2ths excellent jobb back there once again. Iknow i almost kill it
I can se that the pin 8 from Ic goes to R15543
pin 9 ? the same?
pin 10 R15544
but i missing
pin 3,4,5 and must be sure 10,11,12
Please !:P
sotisg69,
You have to zoom way way in to the pictures that i attached to see traces.
As you can see most of the pins of that IC via down underneath the pads so no visible traces can be found. I suspect the inputs to that chip all come from the controller. The outputs are likely that connector next to the chip.
Sotis,
Sorry this took a long time.
So can't help you with all the pins, but but was able to find continuity for a few.
The continuity is between the driver ICs output to the 32 pin connector next to it.
(look at the silk screen around the connector, you will find the pin number guide there)
ICConnector
2 4
4 5
8 23
Sounds like you just may need to get the 36V power converter enable connected.
Maybe if the above doesn't help, You can look at the datasheet for the IC and look at the input pins and see which ones go high when you push play. and go from there.
… use the cheat sheet I made above and see if you have any of the bias converter working.
There was another guy on here with the same symptom as you and I think he gave up. Not sure what causes that.
I finally got back to this -- checked all the DC voltages and they all match your reference. Even with my fluke truerms I didn't validate the secondary but I am guessing I referenced to the wrong point. The DC busses all look OK.
I am thinking to pop off the shield can on the logic board to get at the UART. Any other thoughts? Still a solid white LED.
I went ahead and ordered 2 2DRAM parts since I don't know which is bad. Anyone tried this replacement? I might have to remove the shield. If not I'll remove the parts with hot air and then put the new ones down.
Well, I was able to change the DRAM out without much issue. I used kapton, some foil, and the hakko hot air rework. Then I cleaned the pads and put new parts down. Unfortunately, it did not fix it. That pretty much confirms that the issue is probably a cracked solder ball under the BGA, or head-in-pillow or some other similar type defect. I thought about putting it in the xray but it is so hard to see some of these defects and regardless of what I found, it was not repairable.