Dead Play:5 need schematics or tips


Hi

Play:5, manufacturing date sometime around 2009, is completely dead. No light in LED.

Found several cases of this online, but no solutions.

Does anyone have any knowledge about the problem, og better yet, schematics..

I mainly suspect problem in switch mode power supply. Have only done very basic measuring, but I find 220VAC on primary side, no power on secondary side. I think about ordering a mosfet, and/or a diode I suspect, but if I had schematics I could do some more pinpointing..

166 replies

 

 

Hi guys!

A component called “M054” seems burned at my Play 5 gen 1.

Do I need to replace more than this, I mean did it burn because of some other fault?

Anyone have an idea where to buy a “M054” from?

thanks!

See Page 6!

Had the same Problem and replaced that part from a spare Board.

After replacing and powering up, an IC burned.

So i didn't continue 

My Play:5 working again. If nothing helps you can power it with an external adapter.

My setup: 

  • A laptop power adapter (20V - 6A)
  • DC-DC converter (24-12V)
  • DC connector (female)

The power is enough for max volume and there is no problem.

Thanks for the advice.

 

 

You beat me to it by a few hours!  Nice job!

I just repaired mine too.  I ordered a 24V/4A power supply very cheap on AMazon… $18CAD https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B08NYHM4J9/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 .  I chose this one because it was 250 grams, approximately 95 watts, and the size seemed like it would fit -inside- the case.

I had a few DC-DC converters on hand like this: https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B07Y88RTXJ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I was fortunately able to fit everything inside the case.  I piggybacked the 120V supply to the AC-DC supply from the existing socket, and connected my DC-DC converter at the triple inductor like I had suggested a week or so ago.  I opened the power supply case, removed the existing wires, and soldered it all in directly.  I had to trim the two bass reflex ports about an inch, and was able to position the brick just below those centered between the two mid speakers at the back of the case.  I wrapped the PS brick it in a sheet of foam to avoid vibration.  It’s a snug fit, but everything went together perfectly.  There is no vibration, and I can’t tell the sound difference between this and an unmodified speaker.

 

@timc995 , @mesahin , sound like a practical solution . i’m a complete electronics novice but have a soldering iron and planning to deploy it :).  i have a 12v 5a and a 24v 5a supply, do i connect both negative lines to ground and the +12V and +24v as below?

 

Can anyone help clarify  if the below diagrams look correct, completely unsure where the -12 V and -24V lines go to,?  both to ground?

 

used the upper diagram, its now all systems go, even at full blast it sounds as good as when it was new:). 

hi guys!

I tried bypassing the powerboard by copying the schematics above. But no success, my Play5 Gen1 won´t start up. 

Can you spot anything that I´ve done wrong?

(white is +19V from DELL converter/inverter)

When test-connected, I measure +12V out from yellow cable.

When connected to Sonos board I get 0V from yellow.

 

Hi,

I have a dead Play:5 that I´ve been troubleshooting and came across this thread.

Been measuring all the SMD resistors on the primary side without finding anything wrong.

There is 300VDC on the primary but only about 2VDC on the secondary.

Started to measure the secondary side and found a resistor that was open.

It´s the one marked with red, it´s next to the optocoupler and should be a 68b = 5k resistor.

I have replaced it with a 4.7k 0603 resistor and now I have 26VDC and 12.2VDC on the secondary.

Only wanted to share this as this thread helped me in the right direction.

 

 

Hi all 

im gunna jump on this thread and ask for some from all you fellow fixerupers

 

my play had a blown fuse and rectifier which i replaced. however its still dead. i have measured around the board but im not 100% what im looking for. 

 

so the big ass caps have 86 volts across them. the ac pind of the rectifier has 90 + volts 

 

is there any test point i should be looking for that anyone knows of? 

 

thanks all in advance 

 

theres also  high possibility i have broke somthing replacing that rectifier. is there any test points i can test to between the rectifier and wherever. 

 

thanks again  

Hi all 

im gunna jump on this thread and ask for some from all you fellow fixerupers

 

my play had a blown fuse and rectifier which i replaced. however its still dead. i have measured around the board but im not 100% what im looking for. 

 

so the big ass caps have 86 volts across them. the ac pind of the rectifier has 90 + volts 

 

is there any test point i should be looking for that anyone knows of? 

 

thanks all in advance 

 

theres also  high possibility i have broke somthing replacing that rectifier. is there any test points i can test to between the rectifier and wherever. 

 

thanks again  

 

90V seems a bit low, what are you mains input voltage?

If you are in a 100-115V AC country you should have around 140V DC on the caps.

If you are in a 220-240V AC country, you should have around 300V DC on the caps.

hi yer its 240.. .hmmm thats weird. ill have to recheck. i wonder if theres an issue in one of the other layers  

So we get a little further.. on the rectifier i have one ac leg at 240 and the other at 8. And dc output is 90v. So i measure back down the traces that u can see through the board and removed the mpx40 box cap. I get ol testing this. So it looks like when the reciifier blew it took this out and the fuse.i have some coming tomorrow hopefully. Ill report back once tested 

So we get a little further.. on the rectifier i have one ac leg at 240 and the other at 8. And dc output is 90v. So i measure back down the traces that u can see through the board and removed the mpx40 box cap. I get ol testing this. So it looks like when the reciifier blew it took this out and the fuse.i have some coming tomorrow hopefully. Ill report back once tested 

 

I think that one is more of a suppression capacitor connected between live and neutral.

Isn´t there a inrush current limiting varistor on the opposite side of the fuse at the input socket? Maybe it´s that one that is blown? 

Yer rhere is thats the next component. But i have pulled this box out and im unabke to vet any reading from it. So im changing this then keep working backwards. 

 

What voltage should i get on botg of those ac pins... across the pair 240 v ac or 2r0v ac on both ? 

So the plot thickens. I repla ed the box cap with a new one that tests ok.. the old is ol. Howerver i still only get around 100 v dc on the rectifier.

Confused .com 

Yay it lives... wired only. It worked out 2 of the traces imside the pcb was damaged tbat bles the fuse cap and rectifier. 

 

So nee problem. Basically the guys who bukld these poxg the sma to the board.. they are no bustdd so im relyinv on some solid core cable as replacement to the positive pin which is still present on all 3 

Yer rhere is thats the next component. But i have pulled this box out and im unabke to vet any reading from it. So im changing this then keep working backwards. 

 

What voltage should i get on botg of those ac pins... across the pair 240 v ac or 2r0v ac on both ? 

So the plot thickens. I repla ed the box cap with a new one that tests ok.. the old is ol. Howerver i still only get around 100 v dc on the rectifier.

Confused .com 

 

You should have the full mains voltage, 240V AC on the rectifiers AC pins.

Start at the input jack and measure and see where the voltage disappear.

I did a quick and dirty schematic over the incoming power section,

I don´t have a Play5 with me so I can have missed something

 

Yay it lives... wired only. It worked out 2 of the traces imside the pcb was damaged tbat bles the fuse cap and rectifier. 

 

So nee problem. Basically the guys who bukld these poxg the sma to the board.. they are no bustdd so im relyinv on some solid core cable as replacement to the positive pin which is still present on all 3 

 

That´s good that you find where the problem was.

My god. Fat thumbs and small keyboard.. my typing skills need looking at.

 

Yer so one of the traces to an ac leg on the rectifier was broken also the negative on the dc side of the rectifier to the first cap trace was blown. I wired them direct I also had to replace the fuse rectifier and the box cap.

I have to hard wire it because when i aped the sma cables off the board i busted the connectors because of the glue everywhere. However the centre pin on all 3 board connections are present.. ill have to re solder some wires to them from tbe antennas. Hopefully itll work on wifi/bluetooth then. Thabks all.

 

That diagram is pretty precise by the way.

 

 

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