Dead Play:5 need schematics or tips


Hi

Play:5, manufacturing date sometime around 2009, is completely dead. No light in LED.

Found several cases of this online, but no solutions.

Does anyone have any knowledge about the problem, og better yet, schematics..

I mainly suspect problem in switch mode power supply. Have only done very basic measuring, but I find 220VAC on primary side, no power on secondary side. I think about ordering a mosfet, and/or a diode I suspect, but if I had schematics I could do some more pinpointing..

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Ok I understand. So you mean that I could only use one capacitor with 2 or 3nf instead of the 2 SMD capacitors?

It’s always best to replace like for like.  However, if I didn’t have the parts or was in a hurry, I would just remove the 0.1nF capacitor, install a 2nF capacitor, and see if it works.  This circuitry is on the ‘high side’ of the power supply, and is just used to get the oscillator working.  The circuit will be quite tolerant of capacitor variation.

You asked about voltage for the capacitor.  The oscillator chip is rated for up to 27V, but it would probably be operating in the 15-20V range.  I don’t know if these capacitors are between GND and VCC or not, but if you pick a capacitor that is rated ~25V or higher you will be covered.

I would make one more point … why did these 3 components get smoked?  It seems like a strange part of the circuit to break in that way.  It is possible that you have another problem you haven’t found yet.  I would question if the oscillator itself is working or not, given it is very close to where you seem to have had a power problem.

 

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What part is the Oscillator?

My Play 5 Gen 2 just died.  It’s not the normal fuse and thermistor.  Looks like it blew two resistors under the heatsink...has anyone seen this or replaced these?

 

 

 

 

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What part is the Oscillator?

ICE2QS02G  https://www.infineon.com/dgdl/Infineon-ICE2QS02G-DS-v02_00-en.pdf?fileId=db3a30431a5c32f2011abef4f7fd3bc8

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My Play 5 Gen 2 just died.  It’s not the normal fuse and thermistor.  Looks like it blew two resistors under the heatsink...has anyone seen this or replaced these?

 

I haven’t seen that before.  Check that the bridge rectifier isn’t broken.

After confirming that the bridge rectifier is working, try replacing the resistors and boot it up.  They could have died due to moisture or maybe some kind of transient making its way all the way into that part of the circuit.  There is protection against that, but anything’s possible.

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I have a dead Gen 2 Play:5.  Does anyone know what the DC voltage produced after the transformer is?  There are 3 3300uV capacitors there rated for 35V, so I am guessing that it is 24V, but would like confirmation before injecting 24V.  If someone has a working unit, can you please measure the voltage at the points on the left of this image (where I have soldered in two black wires)?

This unit had a bad mosfet (I have removed it and the empty pads are visible in the image).  I tried replacing the mosfet but didn’t have a good match.  When I did this I only got about 15V but it wouldn’t generate enough amperage to allow the device to boot.  When I inject 15V from an external source, it does work.  That tells me that the mosfet I used wouldn’t pass enough power, or there is some other kind of problem causing the voltage sag.

Thanks!

 

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Hi guys,can someone tell me, what part it is in the red circle (capacitor, resistor) and what readings it have to?

 

It is the wifi card of a Player 5; Gen1.

 

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Hi guys,can someone tell me, what part it is in the red circle (capacitor, resistor) and what readings it have to?

 

It is the wifi card of a Player 5; Gen1.

 

That’s a capacitor.  It looks like it is in series with the antenna.  I measured one(in circuit) and got readings that fluctuated a lot.  They were between 0.6nF and 3nF.

For a 2.4GHz wifi, a 1nF capacitor will act like a 0.066 ohm resistance, which feels correct to me.

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Does Volt play a role or how much should I take?

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That’s a capacitor.  It looks like it is in series with the antenna.  I measured one(in circuit) and got readings that fluctuated a lot.  They were between 0.6nF and 3nF.

For a 2.4GHz wifi, a 1nF capacitor will act like a 0.066 ohm resistance, which feels correct to me.

By the way, there are identical capacitors adjacent to the other 2 SMA terminals for the other two antennas - you can try to measure those.  There is no reason that a bad capacitor on one will prevent the device from working, as they will work fine with only 2 antennas.

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I bought the box as defective because one of the antenna connections was break off. After I soldered it on, the lamp flashes red after the reset. Then I found out that the component was defective. I thought it was that capacitor. Or why could the lamp still blink red?
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I bought the box as defective because one of the antenna connections was break off. After I soldered it on, the lamp flashes red after the reset. Then I found out that the component was defective. I thought it was that capacitor. Or why could the lamp still blink red?

If it is flashing red (and not amber), then that would indicate a bad boot-up.  This is usually due to a bad flash (either the chip has physically failed, or the contents are bad due to a failed upgrade).  Unfortunately, your device is probably not repairable.

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Wenn I connect the Box per LAN, i works all good. But after a Reset, the Box is flashing red. So I think, it couldn't be an bad chip. The Box do the Updates and everything, and after the connect per LAN, Iran pairing it per wifi in the setting.

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Wenn I connect the Box per LAN, i works all good. But after a Reset, the Box is flashing red. So I think, it couldn't be an bad chip. The Box do the Updates and everything, and after the connect per LAN, Iran pairing it per wifi in the setting.

That’s helpful.  It could be that the WIFI module is bad, if you can’t get it to connect over wifi.  (and I mean something bigger than just a bad antenna connection).  You can try to swap a wifi card from another sonos device and see if that helps.  The play:5, connect, and connect:Amp all use the same wifi module (stay away from the older ZP80s - they are not compatible).

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Although i can connect the Box after i paired the Box per LAN, i am able to switch the settings to wifi? It is passable to repair a wifi Module?

 

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Although i can connect the Box after i paired the Box per LAN, i am able to switch the settings to wifi? It is passable to repair a wifi Module?

 

Sorry but I’ve never done it (or tried).

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Ok...thx

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Hey,

I installed a 2nf capacitor and it works again!!! And the red flashing light is gone. 

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Hey,

I installed a 2nf capacitor and it works again!!! And the red flashing light is gone. 

Thanks for the update!  That’s a great learning (at least to me) - what a pleasant surprise!

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I have no idea, but can tell me somebody, what part it is,it is brocken. There is writtrn "2F8".

 

 

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I have no idea, but can tell me somebody, what part it is,it is brocken. There is writtrn "2F8".

 

 

I found an old Play:5 board, and this was labelled 2fx on the one I found.  That also doesn’t come up, but if I had to guess, I’d say it is an NPN transistor BC850W.  That’s based on the ‘2f’ part of the code(s), and the fact that it’s an SOT-323 device.  https://www.s-manuals.com/smd/2f

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Im find another short at tis part:

 

 

I guess there is written on:

 

E48 9558 or something like this.

 

It is blurred, so i cannot read ut as well.

 

Can someone help me and can tell me, what part it is?

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Could it be this one?

 

https://www.alldatasheet.net/datasheet-pdf/pdf/1275376/ONSEMI/1SMB5955BT3G.html

 

On the part is written "ON",the Logo from ON Semiconductor.

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E48 9558 or something like this.

 

It is blurred, so i cannot read ut as well.

 

Can someone help me and can tell me, what part it is?

It looks to me like it is “E43” and 955B or maybe 95513… that last bit doesn’t really seem to be a B or a 13, but it looks even less like an 8 to me.

I’d also be surprised to have a 170 volt zener diode in this circuit…

Userlevel 4
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E48 9558 or something like this.

 

It is blurred, so i cannot read ut as well.

 

Can someone help me and can tell me, what part it is?

It looks to me like it is “E43” and 955B or maybe 95513… that last bit doesn’t really seem to be a B or a 13, but it looks even less like an 8 to me.

Having said that, I’d be a bit surprised to find a 170 volt zener diode in this circuit…

 

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