Dead Play:5 need schematics or tips

Hello,

My play 5 Gen 1 is acting a bit strange. when i power the speaker up it is working fine. when i restart (unplug an replug) the play 5, to move it for example. it won’t boot up. no lights no sound.

if i wait a couple hours it will boot up again. can this be a capacitor fault or a thermistor somewhere?

I desoldered all the capacitors and measured them, they seem te be okay. (capacity measurement only, no ESR)

my voltages are similar to Anders J. Instead of 0V i get between 0-2 volts which should be 11-12 and 24V. so i think the problem should be somewhere on the HV side.

Since the speaker wont turn on for a while could this mean the capacitors have to be empty first?

(picture from Anders J.)

God news my sonos Play 5 sings


I have changed the small chip that controls the mosfet
2QS02G
I also changed the rectifier MBR20150TC, but I do not thing it was defect. I broke it during the removal. I had to take it out to read the type. And therefore had to install a new one.

also changed 5 pcs electrolytic capacitors 820uf 35V

 

Hello, I happen to have a Gen 1 with similar power issue, I see on your picture you changed the chip.

In my case there is no power on the pin 7 of the small driver IC. I cannot figure out from where it gets the power. I manually power the chip with an external 12 V on that capacitor you solder the blue wire. And the power gets back alive! But it’s not self sustaining and as soon as I remove the external Vcc for the IC it goes back to silence. There must be a component I cannot see on the pcb to supply power to the IC.  The small cap 100uF 25V has a connection with the power of the driver IC but I cannot figure-it out. Any ideas? Thanks

Hello, I believe we have similar related fail mode, the intermittent start up is related with the Vcc absence on pin 7 of the ICE2QS02 driver chip. It comes from somewhere I cannot see on the board. Since you have removed all the caps from under the glue, can you check if the small cap 100uf/25V (between the 2 big 400V caps) is connected to any of the high voltage rail? I suspect this small cap is the key to supply power to the driver IC. In my case the 2QS02 chip has no power on pin 7 and obviously it will not work.

If I power the IC externally with 12v then the power is fine. I have to figure out what is the intermittent component related to this failure.

Thanks

the small cap (C27854) is indeed connected to the high voltage rail. how can it be possible that the cap is providing the power? the other side of the cap goes to a line where some resistors (voltage dividers?) are placed

Hello, thanks for the picture.

I have-it fixed finally but I do not know the cause. Here it is in words and pictures:

First, small cap (C27854) is not charging from the AC side, those are probably discharge resistors to the remaining capacity in the filtering caps. It’s another mechanism I could not figure out. The C27854 is providing power to the ICE2QS02 driver chip. It goes thru all those small diodes and caps on the edge of the board. The normal behavior on the voltage for C27854 is that is charging up to around 20V slowly and then ( some of those diodes and transistors do that) turns on the power on the ICE2QS02. 

Once the chip is starting the voltage is self sustaining to around 13 V, I do not understand from where, maybe from the fly back transformer winding itself. 

So for me the challenge was to produce the charging of the C27854 up to 20 to start up the IC. I did this by putting 2 390Kohm from the + on the big caps. I monitor the voltage and it’s ramping up slow, like a second or two. After it reaches 20V the IC starts and it self sustain to 13V. It’s 3 days already and still works! meaning there is no other fail. There was no problem in the fuse or rectifier, nothing burned. As you can see the LED turns on with the 2 resistors soldered. This is the story of this fix.

Hi.  Sorry for the late response.  I was locked out… Can't log in

The problem that I had was that of the 5 speakers, some were working and others were not.  I found that some of the driver chips did not have power and was able to add power to them… after which it all worked again.  Here is a picture of what I jumpered.  I think that this was not the complete job… but you should get the idea from here.

Well done dvd4me!

The 2QS02G needs some power to start the switching function, but it seems to work quite well with a range of voltages.  I think that this is why it was driven with just a simple voltage divider circuit.

You inspired me to dust off an old non-functioning board.  Unfortunately I have some other kind of problem.  I’ll describe it here, in case someone can help me.

For me the voltage on that pin grows slowly, then falls to 5-10v or so, then starts climbing again and repeating the cycle.  Even when I inject 13V to that spot from a bench supply it doesn’t help.

Typical SMPS supplies switches a high voltage via a MOSFET into the primary side of the transformer.  That switching is controlled by the 2QS02G.  I tried replacing it with no luck, and couldn’t find anything else off around it.  What I did find though, was that the high voltage was 160V.  I measured it as marked in the attached image.  This is a problem for me, since when I measured a known good device, the voltage was 274V.  The 160V seems to just be the rectified AC, and is not boosted to 274.  I can’t figure out the mechanism that is causing the 274V to be produced, so am stumped.  Any ideas?

Hello,

From what I understand now, your board does not start, when the voltage on 2QS02 goes up to 20 and the chip powers on, there must be an error that makes the chip to shut down immediately, thus not self-sustaining to 13V. The power on the caps is simple rectified by the bridge, try to measure on another type of switch power supply. Me I got-it from 110V AC so it goes around that 160V I believe ( I did not wrote down the value. Yours if it is 220VAC so it might be 274 or a bit higher rectified. Maybe your rectifier bridge is broken ( one diode is interrupted, so it’s half of the voltage. This driver chip checks for the voltage, locks for undervoltage. The rectifier is your problem. Check for that.

Regards

I don't think that’s right.  My input is 113V, and the rectifier is producing 160V (as expected … ie: 113*1.414).  If I had 220V, then I would expect to see 320V coming from the rectifier.

The 274V that I measured was from a working unit… not the one that doesn’t work.  It could be that when the system is oscillating properly, my meter is getting a bad reading due to the high frequencies present and some kind of induced voltage into the supply.  SMPS oscillators often oscillate well above 100kz, and perhaps my meter isn’t giving an accurate measurement at this kind of frequency.  If my broken board isn’t oscillating, I’m just getting the 60hz rectified output, and hence the 160V.

I just checked for the undervoltage condition.  According to the datasheet, there is a resistor divider network.  That seems to be set with Rvins1=1.5M, and Rvin2=20k.  With the internal Vref of 1.25V, the shutoff voltage would be 95V (1.25*(1520000/20000)).  I never see my rectifier output drop below 160V so I don’t think that’s the problem.

I think that my next step may be to check for an overload condition.  The output on the low voltage side of the transformer is fed through a dual inductor.  I may try to remove that and see if that stabilizes the input.

Hi there,

My sonos play 5 power board had some overvoltage and some parts are blown.

I managed to bring it back to life bij mounting a new PCB fuse3.15A and 2 capacitors 47K275V-X2

2 other components are broken and i cant determine what type they where.

Its about TH27700 at the inlet AC current side, i asume this is a NTC or PTC.

Also MOV27700 is broken, this should be a varistor after the first filter coils.

Does anyone know the partnumbers of these 2 components? You would realy help me out.

Thnx a lot!