Dead Play:5 need schematics or tips

Hi That’s US looking for The Netherlands.

Cheers,

Hemant

Hi,

So finaly replaced the NTC SCK054 and the KBU606 (took a lager one as this one was not available) Replaced the large Caps 400v with new Phillips and all is back to live again. Except for one issue.

I noticed the left tweeter cracking from time to time randomly. (testes wiith another tweeter same issue).

So replaces the small caps 100uf 25v which are feeding the 2 tweeters (just traced back from the board pin to see which where connected ther are right behin the inductors.

However this did not solve the proble so i’m wondering what is causing the cracking sound on only the left tweeter.

If someone could point me into the right direction?

Hemant

SO… My success 2 days ago inspired me to have another look at the two other dead units that I have.

I found a common problem to both of them, and got both working!

I had looked at everything in the high voltage section of the power supply, and couldn’t find any bad components.  Despite this, the devices were both not working, and on closer inspection were resetting about once every 5 seconds… There was power ramping up, and just as it hit 20V in the driver power to the IC, it would fall back to 10V or so and start over. This is a problem that others have had on this forum (and in this thread).

I looked at the datasheet for the PWM (ICE2QS02G), and realized that I had not checked the feedback section of the circuit.  This is the bit on the ‘other side’ of the opto-isolator.  Most of this part of the circuit is buried in glue, but sure enough, when I checked the resistors there, both of my devices had bad resistors in the same spot!  The resistor in question is a very small surface mount, with the marking “68b”.  Looking in the EIA listings , this is a 4.99k resistor.  Both of my devices had open resistors.  I added 1/8 watt 4.7k resistors (I didn’t have 5k), and lo and behold both devices now work.

The lower value resistor did have the effect of making the device run at 13V/26V instead of 12V/24V.  I don’t see this as a problem, as there are several EH31 regulators on the board, and the only thing (I think) that would be driven directly by these voltages would be the actual audio amplifiers.  Those should be tolerant.

 

I just got mine to work with the same error, when I measured the resistor on the board it was 40-80k and when I soldered it out it was 4.9k but I replaced it with a new 5.1k and everything worked like new, I suspect a broken solder. Thanks to everyone here!

Hello everybody,

I also had a dead play:5 gen 1. Fuse blown and faulty rectifier. I also replaced some caps while the speaker was open:

- the 2 large 400V caps of the power supply.  Not sure if they were defective, but without them, it was easier to remove the defective rectifier.

- the 5 35V 820uF caps of the power amp; the heads were bulging.

- the 2 25V 470uF caps that feed the tweeters, they had also bulging heads.

The speaker came alive. So far so good. But the 5 35V 820uF caps are getting really hot. I replaced them again with Panasonic 30mOhm caps, with the same result.

The speaker housing is becoming more hot compared to another play:5 I have.

So I think there must be somewhere a problem that causes my caps to heat and finally damaged them. Or I purchased a wrong type of caps.

Does anyone has an idea?

The small caps should be 25V 470uF? Maybe that is the cause?

Can someone tell me the value of resistor R27842?  Looks like it starts with “01..” but can’t be sure and I definitely can’t make out the last digit. It’s reading open. I think I scraped off some of the markings trying to get the glue off of it.

Can someone tell me the value of resistor R27842?  Looks like it starts with “01..” but can’t be sure and I definitely can’t make out the last digit. It’s reading open. I think I scraped off some of the markings trying to get the glue off of it.

 

 

 

I've just closed mine after repair... But I will probably receive another one in a few weeks for reparation; I will look for the number and also try to measure it. I hope you can wait that long ...

Can someone tell me the value of resistor R27842?  Looks like it starts with “01..” but can’t be sure and I definitely can’t make out the last digit. It’s reading open. I think I scraped off some of the markings trying to get the glue off of it.

 

 

 

R27842 - 01b - 1kohm - 1000 ohm

SO… My success 2 days ago inspired me to have another look at the two other dead units that I have.

I found a common problem to both of them, and got both working!

I had looked at everything in the high voltage section of the power supply, and couldn’t find any bad components.  Despite this, the devices were both not working, and on closer inspection were resetting about once every 5 seconds… There was power ramping up, and just as it hit 20V in the driver power to the IC, it would fall back to 10V or so and start over. This is a problem that others have had on this forum (and in this thread).

I looked at the datasheet for the PWM (ICE2QS02G), and realized that I had not checked the feedback section of the circuit.  This is the bit on the ‘other side’ of the opto-isolator.  Most of this part of the circuit is buried in glue, but sure enough, when I checked the resistors there, both of my devices had bad resistors in the same spot!  The resistor in question is a very small surface mount, with the marking “68b”.  Looking in the EIA listings , this is a 4.99k resistor.  Both of my devices had open resistors.  I added 1/8 watt 4.7k resistors (I didn’t have 5k), and lo and behold both devices now work.

The lower value resistor did have the effect of making the device run at 13V/26V instead of 12V/24V.  I don’t see this as a problem, as there are several EH31 regulators on the board, and the only thing (I think) that would be driven directly by these voltages would be the actual audio amplifiers.  Those should be tolerant.

 

Thank you for your persistence. I had the exact same fault! I don’t think I would have suspected an open resistor in the feedback circuit, such a strange defect. Replaced the resistor together with two ultra cheap bulging „CapXon“ 470uf/35V caps on the secondary side next to the DC/DC converter. Working again like nothing ever happened. Thanks again!

Hello, first of all sorry for my bad English. I have the following problem, my play 5 gen1 only outputs sound over sub and high. Midrange is dead. I'm already disassembling the play5. You can't see faults with the eye. Which components are responsible for the center? I would be very grateful for tips.