Dead Play:5 need schematics or tips

Yer rhere is thats the next component. But i have pulled this box out and im unabke to vet any reading from it. So im changing this then keep working backwards. 

What voltage should i get on botg of those ac pins... across the pair 240 v ac or 2r0v ac on both ? 

So the plot thickens. I repla ed the box cap with a new one that tests ok.. the old is ol. Howerver i still only get around 100 v dc on the rectifier.

Confused .com 

Yay it lives... wired only. It worked out 2 of the traces imside the pcb was damaged tbat bles the fuse cap and rectifier. 

So nee problem. Basically the guys who bukld these poxg the sma to the board.. they are no bustdd so im relyinv on some solid core cable as replacement to the positive pin which is still present on all 3 

You should have the full mains voltage, 240V AC on the rectifiers AC pins.

Start at the input jack and measure and see where the voltage disappear.

I did a quick and dirty schematic over the incoming power section,

I don´t have a Play5 with me so I can have missed something

That´s good that you find where the problem was.

My god. Fat thumbs and small keyboard.. my typing skills need looking at.

Yer so one of the traces to an ac leg on the rectifier was broken also the negative on the dc side of the rectifier to the first cap trace was blown. I wired them direct I also had to replace the fuse rectifier and the box cap.

I have to hard wire it because when i aped the sma cables off the board i busted the connectors because of the glue everywhere. However the centre pin on all 3 board connections are present.. ill have to re solder some wires to them from tbe antennas. Hopefully itll work on wifi/bluetooth then. Thabks all.

That diagram is pretty precise by the way.

Hi Folks, First post here :) I’ve been lurking on this thread as I’ve purchased a few used Play 5’s over the last few weeks. Most of them work great, except a couple needed repairs, so I thought I’d pass on what I’ve learned by applying responses from previous posts.

Symptom 1: Low volume from both midrange speakers and distorted bass from woofer. 

Solution 1: All of the 820uF caps of the output amps (6 total) were defective (bulging tops and low capacitance measured on all of them). Additionally, the 470uF filter caps on the output stage of the midrange amps we also defective (bulging tops as well). Replaced all 8 caps, midrange and woofer issues resolved.  

Symptom 2: Wireless ethernet not working (speaker could not be found after a reset), but wired ethernet works properly. Two Play 5’s exhibiting this fault.

Solution 2: Removed the wireless adapter card from the socket, cleaned the edge connector fingers with flux remover and cleaned the socket pins as well. Reinstalled wireless adapter. Both are now functional with wireless ethernet.

Hope these two fixes helps others with similar issues.

Fooo

Hi, all, got a great deal of help from the posts in here so I want to chip in a bit.

My Play 5 1st gen suddenly didn't start up properly. Lamp blinking white. Got the main PCB out and noticed that the the power was cycling every second. This could be measured on many places on the board but for example between pin 7 and 8 on the 2QS02G. There was also a small sound from the transformer at each cycle.

Thanks to page 3 here I could locate that the 10 Ohm resistor R27825 was broken. This resistor was hidden by a big heap of glue. I left it in place since it was broken and soldered a standard resistor over its legs. And the unit now powers on correctly.

A tip: when the speaker front has been removed you can take off the 4 5.5mm nuts of the top PCB and gently lift it up. Now its possible to leave this top board in place and not mess with the wifi antennas and such.

Hi All,

I’m trying to revive my Sonos Play 5 Gen1. After coming back from Holiday I plugged in the speaker and got  a short circuit for some reason. Both Play 5’s I have are on the same circuit. One of them still working the other dead.

After reading this topic, i opened up the broken one and saw a crack in the SCK-054 en the fuse was blown. After I temporary replaced the fuse the main curcuite got blown again. so started to investigate and bumped on the Bridge Recitifier which is s KBU606 look like there is a short there. Not sure why this failed.

So no I need to replace the KBU606 unfortunately this part is EOL so cannot get the same any reccomendations for a replacement? I Have 2x GBU606 laying but not sure if they will work also the GBU606 is half the thickness of the KBU606.

Also need to replace the SCK-054 which is also EOL looking at ditributors within the region en they don’t seem to have the TKD also so not sure what to replace it with. I normally by from Reichelt in NL.

All the help appreciated as I’m hoping to get it fixed.

Cheers,

Hemant

Hi, The KBU606 is available on Digi-Key and other distributors.