Dead Play:5 need schematics or tips

Ok I understand. So you mean that I could only use one capacitor with 2 or 3nf instead of the 2 SMD capacitors?

It’s always best to replace like for like.  However, if I didn’t have the parts or was in a hurry, I would just remove the 0.1nF capacitor, install a 2nF capacitor, and see if it works.  This circuitry is on the ‘high side’ of the power supply, and is just used to get the oscillator working.  The circuit will be quite tolerant of capacitor variation.

You asked about voltage for the capacitor.  The oscillator chip is rated for up to 27V, but it would probably be operating in the 15-20V range.  I don’t know if these capacitors are between GND and VCC or not, but if you pick a capacitor that is rated ~25V or higher you will be covered.

I would make one more point … why did these 3 components get smoked?  It seems like a strange part of the circuit to break in that way.  It is possible that you have another problem you haven’t found yet.  I would question if the oscillator itself is working or not, given it is very close to where you seem to have had a power problem.

What part is the Oscillator?

My Play 5 Gen 2 just died.  It’s not the normal fuse and thermistor.  Looks like it blew two resistors under the heatsink...has anyone seen this or replaced these?

ICE2QS02G  https://www.infineon.com/dgdl/Infineon-ICE2QS02G-DS-v02_00-en.pdf?fileId=db3a30431a5c32f2011abef4f7fd3bc8

I haven’t seen that before.  Check that the bridge rectifier isn’t broken.

After confirming that the bridge rectifier is working, try replacing the resistors and boot it up.  They could have died due to moisture or maybe some kind of transient making its way all the way into that part of the circuit.  There is protection against that, but anything’s possible.

I have a dead Gen 2 Play:5.  Does anyone know what the DC voltage produced after the transformer is?  There are 3 3300uV capacitors there rated for 35V, so I am guessing that it is 24V, but would like confirmation before injecting 24V.  If someone has a working unit, can you please measure the voltage at the points on the left of this image (where I have soldered in two black wires)?

This unit had a bad mosfet (I have removed it and the empty pads are visible in the image).  I tried replacing the mosfet but didn’t have a good match.  When I did this I only got about 15V but it wouldn’t generate enough amperage to allow the device to boot.  When I inject 15V from an external source, it does work.  That tells me that the mosfet I used wouldn’t pass enough power, or there is some other kind of problem causing the voltage sag.

Thanks!

Hi guys,can someone tell me, what part it is in the red circle (capacitor, resistor) and what readings it have to?

It is the wifi card of a Player 5; Gen1.

Hi guys,can someone tell me, what part it is in the red circle (capacitor, resistor) and what readings it have to?

 

It is the wifi card of a Player 5; Gen1.

 

That’s a capacitor.  It looks like it is in series with the antenna.  I measured one(in circuit) and got readings that fluctuated a lot.  They were between 0.6nF and 3nF.

For a 2.4GHz wifi, a 1nF capacitor will act like a 0.066 ohm resistance, which feels correct to me.

Does Volt play a role or how much should I take?

By the way, there are identical capacitors adjacent to the other 2 SMA terminals for the other two antennas - you can try to measure those.  There is no reason that a bad capacitor on one will prevent the device from working, as they will work fine with only 2 antennas.