If your speakers work well in a wired setup but you are unable to keep one speaker wired to the router, consider adding a Sonos Boost to your system. A Boost pretty much does what a wired speaker does by creating a dedicated mesh network for your Sonos speakers to connect to.

Whaaat? So a change of router means shelling out another 99€ on a Sonos Boost? I find that hard to stomach.

I think you’re misunderstanding the response. Note that the phrase used was  “If your speakers work well in a wired setup but you are unable to keep one speaker wired to the router”. If you’re just changing routers, you could easily use the same SSID as your old router and it would be transparent to Sonos, or if you choose to use a different SSID, you just need to use that ethernet cable in order to get the Sonos system to be “seen” so that you can then change the SSID in the Sonos software. 

Note that the new router should be using 802.11b/g and not just something different. It can use additional frequencies if they’re available, but Sonos requires a connection to either 2.4Ghz b/g or (for some newer Sonos devices) 5Ghz b/g. 

The key for you most likely is to temporarily wire one speaker to your new router. Wait a couple of minutes for all your system to switch over to SonosNet, then go in to the controller and change to your new SSID. Once that’s done, you can remove the ethernet cable to your speaker. 

You are right, I did change the SSID (and can’t go back, as I forget the old router’s name!). I thought by connecting one speaker with ethernet I was enabling Sonos to change to the new SSID. As I said, my problem was whenever I try to set up Sonos on my wifi, it says that my password for the router is incorrect.  I know this is not the case, and have double checked by ‘forgetting’ it on other devices and reconnecting.  And if I click on Networks I get the message “In Use”, which I dont understand.

I have changed routers in the past (and changed their name) without having this problem.  I don’t understand why it does not recognised my password (which IS the same as for the old router).

I really dont want to spend 100€ just because my old router packed up. 

That error ‘message’ has also been shown to appear when the Sonos can not connect to the network. Have you double checked that the router is using a 2.4 GHz b/g compatible signal? You’d get that error, for instance, if the router was only using a 5Ghz n signal.

If you prefer not to change the channel in use, then wiring any single Sonos device ( except a Sub or surround speaker ) directly to the router will force that device to create the SonosNet mesh, which all your Sonos will connect to. In fact, if you don’t have a speaker close enough to your router, you could use a BOOST, something I’ve chosen to do. It has the benefit of also pulling the bandwidth used by Sonos off of my normal WiFi signal. 

Hmmm.  Think I misread your post. 

Let me go back and rethink this. 

Ok, I’m not sure I understand where it is failing. Is it while a device is wired and creating a SonosNet connection, or is it failing after you remove that Ethernet cable?

My comments about bands remain an issue, Sonos does need to connect to specific types of channels. The lowest common denominator, based on what Sonos devices you have, is 2.4Ghz b/g signal, although newer devices can connect to a 5Ghz signal. But that error can be a false read of the inability to connect, and that error message about the password being incorrect is a false representation. 

I would do a few things. First, reconnect with a SonosNet wired connection. Remove all network information from the Sonos controller. Then go in to your router, and confirm which bands it is using, and what compatible types of networks are being supported. Make sure it is compatible with a 2.4Ghz b/g system in addition to anything faster…having one shouldn’t impact the ability for the other. Then go back in to the controller, and enter in the new network information. Once it is in, you should be able to remove the Ethernet cable, and the system should, after a minute or two, be connected.

However, you may be better served by, while your system is wired in SonosNet mode, submitting a system diagnostic, and calling Sonos Support to discuss it.

There may be information included in the diagnostic that will help Sonos pinpoint the issue and help you find a solution.

When you speak directly to the phone folks, they have tools at their disposal that will allow them to give you advice specific to your Sonos system and network.

I’d like to thank you for your comments and as a result will probably end up buying a Boost after all, hoping desperately it will solve my problems.

I took your advice and contacted Sonos (via Chat) and emerge three hours later worse off than I started!  So, forgive this rant.

The first adviser said the problem was that my router was not configured to use the 2.4 signal with Sonos (I thought Orange Livebox 4 could use 2.4 and 5Ghz automatically).  I agreed to her taking control of my router administration.  Her changes included changing the name of the Livebox - resulting not only in disconnecting all my devices, including my lights, but in cutting her connection to my Mac.  So the session ended abruptly.

I tried again with a second adviser, who did not appear interested in reading the transcript of the first chat, so we went over all the same ground.  The poor chap was clearly multitasking, so I had to keep repeating information I had given him.  The chat with him stopped abruptly, without any explanation.

Net result is that now neither speaker works with wifi, only one with ethernet (not much use, since the router is not anywhere handy), andmy Sonos 1 controller seems to have lost the link to my very big music library (created on a Mac).

I know network problems are a nightmare - I now have to tackle extenders which lost contact with the change of router - but I do feel that the superb quality of the Sonos sound is let down - for people who just want to listen to their music -  by complex and hard to manage software.

FRA,

I recommend that you power down the SONOS units and get your other WiFi devices working, then proceed with wiring one SONOS device and get it working. At that time you can install the current WiFi credentials, but I prefer SonosNet.

I don’t know what you have done during your struggles. You may need to wire the other units (one by one, if you like) to get them setup on the new network. Don’t Factory Reset any of the SONOS units without further consult.

Thanks, but I think this is what I have been doing: trying to get just one Sonos device working before connecting the second - and getting the “In Use” and “Password incorrect” messages.  How do I install using the SonosNet rather than Wifi credentials?

Unfortunately during my two chats with Sonos, both units have been factory reset, without any improvement.

I have now ordered Boost, which should arrive next week, and I’m going to have another attempt to sort things out then.

SonosNet is automatically selected when one or more units are wired to the network. Approximately every half hour the SONOS units will broadcast their presence on the network. In some cases you may need to wait for the full half hour before a unit is discovered. You can reboot a unit that has not yet been discovered in order to speed this process.

You do not need any passwords to use SonosNet, however, you may be prompted to sign-in with your online SONOS account when adding controllers and new or recently Factory Reset units to your system. This is usually a one time process.

From here I cannot know your issue exactly, but there is virtually no difference between wiring one of your current units and adding a wired BOOST. The main reason for adding BOOST is when you don’t need a  music player at the most convenient location to wire a unit. I recommend keeping the new BOOST packed and get the system working by temporarily wiring one unit, then wire the other unit if necessary to get it going. Once the system is operating, then you can deploy the units and decide if adding BOOST is warranted.

Another use for BOOST is to support a wireless SonosNet player that is in a bad wireless signal area. BOOST can be wired or wireless as long as at least one unit in the system is wired. In the case of a wireless BOOST, it should be placed about midway between the good and bad coverage areas.

Don’t overlook the possibility of an intermittent network cable.