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Unable to add my Amp to the network ...

Forum|Forum|2 years ago
October 22, 2023
93 replies
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Hello,

Our Sonos system consist of 2 Boosts, 5 Connect Amp compatible with S2, 1 Amp and 1 Arc. The Connect Amps are distributed in the home while the Arc and Amp are in the living room connected to our television. Boosts are needed to extend the Sonos network.

I recently realized that a part of our home internet network was not working. Some ethernet connections needed to be worked on. I had to make changes in the wiring and the connections.

I suspect that part of my problems were created when adding a TP-Link Deco mesh system on my home network to have a better signal in all our home that is not ethernet wired entirely.

So I played around with all the wires and cables of our internet and Sonos networks. When reconnecting everything, my Amp was not recognized anymore on my Sonos network and my Arc’s button were not responsive anymore. I don’t know if the 2 problems are caused by the same problem.

So I tried very hard to have my Amp recognize by the network. I also tried resetting it to factory settings many times with no success. Later, it did recognize the Amp by was never able to add it to the Sonos system.

This morning, I moved the Amp near my main Boost. I reset it another time to it’s factory setting. This time the Amp was recognized and added to the system, but Sonos said it was unable to add it to displayed configuration of the Sonos app. I tried once more with no success.

Over the years, I never had problems configuring or making changes to my Sonos configuration with my older S2 compatible Connect Amp. I never had any problem. Everything was a breeze. I was always surprised how simple the Sonos setup was taken care of.

Since the newer Amp, configuration has been tricky, quite complicated and not straightforward anymore. Is it my fault or caused by our more complicated internet network or is the new Amp more flaky, I don’t know. One thing is sure, I have done a-lot of work and I am at the end of my personal options.

Can anyone help me going further fixing my 2 problems ?

Thanks in advance.

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Best answer by rlesperance

Hello glad helpers …. I just wanted to make a follow up on my case. Calling Sonos helped to focus on the hardware problem.

The Sonos Amp was not connecting because it was blocked from the TP-Link Deco system. Sorry to say that. I don’t know why and how it was blocked but once unblocked, it simply joined the network smoothly and simply as all Sonos devices always did. I learned that the Sonos Amp can self diagnostic iitself by displaying different color signals.

I I had 3 blocked devices. Not sure what they all were yet. But now that they are unblocked, everything got back to Sonos normal and simplicity. Even the Apple TV (salle familliale) connected to the Deco system.

Ken … I also called Videotron. I was able to have my other Apple TV (not shown on the diagram) joined the Deco network through B2 and thus could disable the repeater like you suggested. I did not convert my ISP’s router to a bridge … yet.

So thanks again for being supportive.

P.S. The diagram has been updated.

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R

rlesperanceAuthor

Avid Contributor III

Don’t wire to the ISP box. It’s the wrong side of your primary Deco unit, which by default contains a router.

Ratty … I understand that connecting to my ISP’s router will bypass the D1. I thought that, by doing this, the Sonos network would not be affected by the Deco discrepancies. What am I missing ?

As for the fact that my Apple TV (ATV) connects to the ISP router (10.0.0.1) instead of the Deco network, I have to add that the ethernet cable in which the ATV is connected originates from D1 before connecting to GES3 in which the ATV connects to (D1 → GES3 → ATV ). To me that seems to confirm that the ATV is able to decipher what are the available networks and that it is able to choose my ISP’s network instead of Deco’s.

Ken_Griffiths

The Boost 2 was initially off a wired Deco Satellite DS-1 from what was mentioned. I did suggest moving it to GES-2, but leaving it uncabled seems sensible. This is what I was seeing from the things mentioned… (if it perhaps helps to clarify things🤔?)… it would be helpful to know if I have the diagram incorrect in any way?

Ken_Griffiths

Sorry if the drawing is a bit rough at the edges, but that’s what I was seeing from the things mentioned.

R

rlesperanceAuthor

Avid Contributor III

You are preceding me. I was in the way of making one. I don’t have time this morning but I will get back to you. It will be helpful for everybody.

Ken_Griffiths

My concern is if IR is broadcasting the same SSID as the DPH - particularly as the OP does not know how ‘LespeReeves’ became the SSID name, or indeed if it is the SSID for DPH.🤷‍♂️

Ken_Griffiths

You are preceding me. I was in the way of making one. I don’t have time this morning but I will get back to you. It will be helpful for everybody.

Yes your own diagram will certainly assist - note too I left off your WiFi extender as you mentioned it was now powered off - I’ve assumed that still to be the case.

Knowing/confirming the wireless SSIDs for your two routers would greatly help too.

R

rlesperanceAuthor

Avid Contributor III

The Wifi extender is still powered off.

Where can I see the SSIDs you are talking about ? I have really no idea about that.

Ken_Griffiths

The Wifi extender is still powered off.

Where can I see the SSIDs you are talking about ? I have really no idea about that.

It’s the WiFi name(s) that each router broadcasts for its 2.4Ghz band and its 5Ghz band - ideally you need to log onto each router via a web browser (or it’s App) and look at what they are called.

The IR interface is at 10.0.0.1 and I’m guessing the DPH is at 192.168.68.1 —> logon with the admin username and password and look at their configuration pages to get the answers.

Ken_Griffiths

Note we only need their names and not anything else, like passwords etc.

Whilst in the pages, you may want to note that the 2.4Ghz band needs to be 802.11b/g/n compatible and I suggest perhaps using a security mode of WPA2 AES too for the time being.

ratty

The WiFi’s standards/security aren’t especially relevant as the system’s in SonosNet mode.

This however raises a flag.

As for the fact that my Apple TV (ATV) connects to the ISP router (10.0.0.1) instead of the Deco network, I have to add that the ethernet cable in which the ATV is connected originates from D1 before connecting to GES3 in which the ATV connects to (D1 → GES3 → ATV ). To me that seems to confirm that the ATV is able to decipher what are the available networks and that it is able to choose my ISP’s network instead of Deco’s.

The ATV doesn’t get to ‘choose’. And if the topology is D1 → GES3 → ATV with GES3 on the LAN side of D1 why is it getting a 10.x.x.x IP instead of 192.168.x.x??

It’s beginning to sound as though there are two DHCP servers on the same segment. As if D1 is either being bridged past or is wired incorrectly?

The topology needs to be documented and thoroughly verified.

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