From the Sonos website:

How is Port different from Connect?

Port is the successor to Connect, delivering richer sound and extending the Sonos platform to traditional audio equipment. Port includes an updated digital-to-analog converter for clearly detailed sound and a 12V trigger, which automatically turns on your amplifier to more reliably initiate playback. Port also allows you to control content using Apple AirPlay 2 and features a versatile design compatible with a standard AV rack.

To a degree it depends on whether you require digital output or analog. Port has a better internal DAC. However for digital output Port should be locked in Fixed Volume mode to bypass the DSP and avoid limiter effects in Variable Volume mode that have attracted criticism. According to other reports, even in Fixed Volume the Port is evidently not bit-perfect possibly due to internal sample rate conversion. 

On the connectivity front, Port has a much better radio and is able to support 5GHz WiFi (802.11n and 802.11a only). It also consumes less power than Connect when idle and runs cooler.

Thanks for the very helpful replies. Will probably go for the port, for the reasons outlined.

Not clear if the bit-perfect discussion is relevant for me. I do want high quality but have already moved away from considering BlueSound and I guess have accepted that the Sonos… is what it is.

My next question is whether the points discussed above apply to the Connect Amp Gen 2 when compared to the current Amp 

Thanks 

From the Sonos website:

What is the difference between Amp and Connect:Amp?

Amp is more powerful than Connect:Amp, supporting 125 Watts per channel versus 55 Watts per channel. Amp also features an HDMI ARC input for TV integration, allows control with Apple AirPlay 2, and supports Trueplay when powering Sonos Architectural by Sonance. Both Amp and Connect:Amp have RCA line-in options.

Thanks again for the great knowledge.

When using Apple Air Play 2 is this done on a Sonos device by device basis, or once feeding one Sonos device, can the source be ‘broadcast’ to all Sonos zones?

And bit-perfectness obviously has no relevance to the Amp. Outputs are analog.

Read this article about AirPlay and Sonos:

https://support.sonos.com/en-us/article/stream-airplay-audio-to-sonos

If you need an optical out stay with the Connect - the Port does not do optical.

Oops, clicked wrong answer for best answer and can’t change it.

For the price difference quoted, I would go for Connects that are S2 capable; any audible change via Port is objectively questionable. But for all that is posted by GuitarSuperstar on how the Amp is different than the Connect Amp, the latest Sonos amp model is the one to buy.

PS: I have Sonos kit including Connects bought in 2011 that all work flawlessly so I give them high marks for reliability; the Connect does run hot, but that has never been an issue because my two are installed in well ventilated spaces.

Since you are planning on using S2, just make sure that whatever used Connect you buy is S2 capable.

Adding cooling to a ZP or Connect is really easy, I just grabbed an old CPU cooler, no fan, from my junk box, cleaned the bottom of it and top of my ZP and just sat it there. I don’t recall the numbers after all this time but it was several degrees cooler.

Something like this:

https://www.amazon.com/Heatsink-90x90x15mm-Aluminum-Electronic-Amplifier/dp/B07VDRTFSD/ref=sr_1_65_sspa

Proof of the pudding is with you, so this is just curiousness: I would think that since the heatsink would be transferred heat to it via conduction, how does the non metallic surface of the Connect do this better than just by radiating the heat away directly?

The top of the Connect gets quite warm but has a limited surface area, adding surface area (via conduction to the heat sink) results in more radiated heat.

I think the metal spot in the center of the top gets the warmest, don’t have one currently to test.

I did try some messy, gooey heat sink bedding compound and saw no improvement worth the mess.

So the heatsink when placed on the Connect overlaps its edges? So the size of the sink has to be chosen to do that?

I tried a variety of heatsinks, most were bigger than the silver spot on the ZP’s top, all were far smaller than the top of my ZP.

The ones I ended up using for several years were off old HP systems, about 3 inches square and 2 inches tall. Just aluminum with fins on top, nothing special. Wiped off the dust, set them on and added a rubber-band and called it good.

Bigger is always better, but in this case but “how much better” is a good question. I tried some really hefty, copper heatsinks that only made a couple tenths (F) degree difference over the smaller ones. Likely due to the thermal resistance of the ZP case top.

I get it - what you suggest is that most of the heat is radiated away by the silver spot on the top surface Connect, so putting a heat sink that directly touches all that area should allow for better radiation of the heat? What did you obtain as measured temperature differences after placing such a sink on top?

Cooler is always better for long kit life, and a simple fix to obtain that in this manner sounds like a good idea..

I don’t recall the numbers but it was several degrees F.

Our earlier discussion of this has more numbers and even a picture of one of the early heatsinks that I decided was too tall after I banged it a couple times.

“I took my IR thermometer out when I saw this post, just as I removed the heat sink the ZP-80 was 87 degrees at the center of the badge area. After a half hour I checked it again and it was 93 so there is some difference from the heat sink, 6 degrees isn't much.”

Yes, it was interesting to read much the same conversation; six years ago though, so we can be forgiven for repeating it!

Forgiven? After only 6 years?

I’m guessing you are a single male?  :-)

How about short term memory starting to go as a better excuse?!

You know you’re getting ‘mature’ when “short term” is six years. 

Add to that the way these/similar fora are structured, to make matters worse! Which is why I have a folder in my computer of screenshots of key/relevant posts, so that when I need to access these for troubleshooting, I can just refer to that one folder.

I’d stay away from the Connect.  I’ve got an S2 Connect and it loses sync with the rest of the Sonos network gradually.  (A bunch of people have reported this problem - search the forums for Connect Sound Out of Sync or similar.). I’ve created a workaround for now by hardwiring the Connect to the router and selecting the Connect as the head node for any group it’s in, but your case may be complicated.  At least one user here has reported that replacing the Connect with a Port fixed the problem, but there’s been no support from Sonos on the issue.