ZP80 Power Supply

jld;250334 wrote:

A friend gave me an old ZP80 he had that didn't power on.

I opened it up and there's a chip on the power supply that's blown up. The top of the IC is gone so I can't look up the part number. Curious if anyone has high res pictures or knowledge of the ZP80 power supply so I can replace the damaged parts?

Thanks.

I can't upload any pic but the chip is label with:
DH321 VE52

I have similar problem...but no visible sign of any burn chip. Trying to see if I can replace the caps.
Tested the board using computer ATX PSU. 3.3V for R/Blk and 12V for Y/Brn can power and run the unit fine. So If all else fail, will look for pre-fab switching PSU.

Interesting. I was curious about that. The molex connector from PS to board looks vary similar to those in PCs, but on the PS board it says 3.3V out and 14.8V out, so I thought they wouldn't be compatible.

Great to know that if I can't fix this one I could probably just replace the whole part.

Thanks.

soyuppy;250373 wrote:

I can't upload any pic but the chip is label with:
DH321 VE52

Thanks for giving me the model number of that chip. Are there any other markings or logos? I'd like to identify the chip manufacturer if possible.

Try searching for these markings separately. Very often one of the numbers is a batch or date code. I did a very quick search and came up with a Fairchild FSDM0265RNB. I have no idea if this is a reasonable match, but it looks promising.

@buzz, yes that is the correct chip. It's the "brains" of the powersupply loosely speaking.

Soyuppy has determined that the ZP80 will indeed run on 3.3v 12v power, which means that it should be fairly easy to find replacement supplies. It also means that you can plug the relevant lines from a standard ATX power supply in to check that the logic board is still working.

I have same issue with ZP80 PSU. Tried to replace bad cap but board is still not outputting any voltage. Beginning to think it's the problem in in the DH321 chip.
Just wondering if anyone tried to replace this chip and had any success?

The chip markings on my board are DH321, VG45 (not VE45).
My ZP80 outputs almost no sound. with the volume at Maximum I can hear the sound very low. It works perfect besides this. I measured the voltages on the output Cables to Red = 3.25V, Brown 0V, Yellow 12.9V.
My capacitor 1800uF, 6.3V at position C206 has blown up. Replaced it with a 2200 uF, 10V.
My board also is missing C210 and R214. Can anyone see if you have theese Components or if they should be missing perhaps?

Resistor measured between the Black and Brown power cable from the power board and realize that I have a short circuit there. That is why Brown outputs Zero volt.

Hi guys, hope someone can help - I'm trying to fix a failed Connect but someone already tampered with it (and abandoned the notion). I can't make out what needs to exist where the U3 pinout is (the chip which has 8 contact points). any thoughts? Thanks so much upfront!

Hi guys,

Seems that this thread is a bit dead. Following the suggestion above, I tried the Fairchild FSDM0265RNB / DH321 VE52 trail and it seems that it's not the one I need. Is there an older PSU board revision (which i might happen to have) where a different part was used? i need one that will fit with the following pin-out:

1 NC
2 GND
3 Vcc
4 Vfb
5 NC
6 Drain
7 Drain
8 Drain

In fact, maybe all I need is to match pins 2,3,4,6,7,8 and can work around the rest somehow...

Any help will be much appreciated!

Capt.MikeB wrote:

Is there an older PSU board revision (which i might happen to have) where a different part was used

My Sonos connect power board uses a 5M0165R if that helps?

My out-of-warranty Sonos Connect went "lights out" last month. Upon taking it apart, I saw a few components on the power board that looked fried; the 1800uf cap, 2a fuse and 120k resistor, the 5M0165R chip.. possibly others. I think they are all replaceable but i'm not great with electronics repairs... As can can be seen printed by the output wires on the power board, it's basically just providing a regulated 3.3v and 14.8v DC feed to the main board, so i found a lower tech solution.

I han old 12v AC DC adaptor lying around (i think from an old wifi router) that I thought I could try for the 14.8v feed and I seperately purchased a 3.3v AC to DC adapter here..

http://cpc.farnell.com/powerpax/sw3516-vi/ac-adaptor-3-3v-1-5a-regulated/dp/PW02342?CMP=TREML007-005

I cut the plugs of and soldered the connections direct to the motherboard molex connections. I used the 12v adaptor for the 14.8v feed and the 3.3v adaptor for the 3.3v feed.

Red: 3.3v+
Black 3.3v GND
Yellow 14.8v+
Brown 14.8v GND

I wasn't sure if the 12v input would provide sufficient power, but it's been working without fault for over a week now.

The downside is that i now have to use 2 plug sockets to power the sonos now, but i can live with that

Hi I am also having a problem with a ZP90 PSU. Did your 'lower tech' solution still working ?

Thanks

bernshaw wrote:

Hi I am also having a problem with a ZP90 PSU. Did your 'lower tech' solution still working ?

Thanks

Yes - it's been permanently plugged in since my last comment and is still working without issue

Thanks