I bought a faulty Sonos ZP100 which had previously been opened. I therefore had no option of a Sonos repair or out of warranty exchange. I couldn’t find a guide to strip the unit down so worked it out myself. I have since written a guide which will hopefully help someone in the future but I accept no responsibility for any damage caused by following it. At the end of the guide I have written a small explanation of the repair needed for my unit which appeared to have suffered a power surge and no longer powered up. Please feel free to improve or alter the guide. Thanks.
http://www.mediafire.com/download/0duavcuf1zyuc8u/sonos_dismantle.pdf
This topic has been closed for further comments. You can use the search bar to find a similar topic, or create a new one by clicking Create Topic at the top of the page.
Page 1 / 2
+1
Thanks!
Hope to never use it, but I like the effort.
br
agron
Hope to never use it, but I like the effort.
br
agron
Great guide! My Sonos ZP100 also died in the exact same way. Can you tell me the part number of the burnt surface mount diode on the power supply PCB. Mine is not legible... Thanks!
Userlevel 2
The original diode has CA 48 written on it and is a bidirectional type as seen in this data sheet :-
http://www.st.com/web/en/resource/technical/document/datasheet/CD00001366.pdf
I didn't fit an exact replacement and can't remember the part number but I hope this information helps.
http://www.st.com/web/en/resource/technical/document/datasheet/CD00001366.pdf
I didn't fit an exact replacement and can't remember the part number but I hope this information helps.
Thanks for the info! I found a similar part on DigiKey. Hopefully it will work! 🙂
The replacement parts arrived, I installed them, and the ZP100 is back alive blasting music!
Userlevel 2
Fantastic! What alternative part did you fit?
Userlevel 2
could you please list the part number you used?
thanks in advance
thanks in advance
The link to your PDF is dodgy - I don't see why I must install a "Download Manager" that also tries to install other stuff - I do not trust this one iota. I tried to cancel the installation but it then proceeded to install and run the thing - this is unnecessary.
Downloading a PDF and viewing it requires nothing more than a standard browser.
Downloading a PDF and viewing it requires nothing more than a standard browser.
I found no such difficulty. Clicking 'Download' pops up the same dialog I always get with pdf's, offering to Open it in Acrobat or Save it to disk.
I just tried the data sheet PDF and had no trouble. I'm using Firefox and the FOXIT PDF reader is linked as an addon. This file opened for view as any other PDF would open.
The Mediafire PDF in post #1, however, did try to stuff me -- I declined.
The Mediafire PDF in post #1, however, did try to stuff me -- I declined.
Userlevel 2
Does anyone recall the component designation number stamped on the PCB for this diode? I see something that looks fried across a large inductor that begins with a "C" - I assume that's not it..
survey_sez,
Something across an inductor is usually a snubber of some sort. If the snubber fries, this is a secondary issue. There is a big problem elsewhere. I would expect "hints", such as other charred components or odd shorted paths that you can easily find with an Ohmmeter. Follow the current source back from that burned snubber.
Something across an inductor is usually a snubber of some sort. If the snubber fries, this is a secondary issue. There is a big problem elsewhere. I would expect "hints", such as other charred components or odd shorted paths that you can easily find with an Ohmmeter. Follow the current source back from that burned snubber.
Userlevel 2
yes agreed. the inductor is fried (visibly 'open'). it's the yellow toroid next to the full wave bridge. it might have two windings. below the pcb is c16114 connected to it that looks a bit shabby - but might be ok (not sure yet). do you know the value of that capacitor? oh - this is a zp120. I had hoped to find a shorted smbj48 that this thread references but I cant locate that at all.. gotta get the meter and soldering iron out to learn more. tracing this schematic is going to be a pita.
Userlevel 2
May I firstly say a great thank you berrisford5, I salute your sharing of knowledge!
Without these instructions this task would not have happened for me.
Replaced the CA48 diode the T4A cylinder fuses for pennies though delivery of the fuses took a while.
All the best to anyone else who undertakes it, I had to use two small irons on the diode as not fully experienced or equipt in surface mount.
Without these instructions this task would not have happened for me.
Replaced the CA48 diode the T4A cylinder fuses for pennies though delivery of the fuses took a while.
All the best to anyone else who undertakes it, I had to use two small irons on the diode as not fully experienced or equipt in surface mount.
http://www.mediafire.com/download/0duavcuf1zyuc8u/sonos_dismantle.pdf
I bought a used one on Amazon (becoming harder and harder to find these lately), and the mute button was dislodged somehow.
Opened, repositioned, fixed. All other functions are fine.
Guide was just what I needed to open it up.
Userlevel 2
Hi,
I have a ZP90 which refuses to start up.
I observe a flashing white led light. It actually never stops flashing.
I've read on the FAQ that this means that the ZP90 is unable to start up.
Is this problem, or symptom, similar to the one in this thread?
I really would like to know, if it's similar then I could risk to open it and test my repair skills :-)
So my question to you, can you shed a light on the symptom encountered with your defect player? Was it also a continuous flashing white led?
Many thanks for your feedback, much appreciated!
Koekie
I have a ZP90 which refuses to start up.
I observe a flashing white led light. It actually never stops flashing.
I've read on the FAQ that this means that the ZP90 is unable to start up.
Is this problem, or symptom, similar to the one in this thread?
I really would like to know, if it's similar then I could risk to open it and test my repair skills :-)
So my question to you, can you shed a light on the symptom encountered with your defect player? Was it also a continuous flashing white led?
Many thanks for your feedback, much appreciated!
Koekie
In general, the blinking white light means the system has power but has not successfully booted. At least on the ZP100 this can mean anything from the flash memory being bad, to the OS not being able to boot, to hardware issues on the dsp board. If the device gets an IP address you can try pinging it while rebooting(see http://forums.sonos.com/showpost.php?p=196297&postcount=11 ).
I know this is an old thread, but thought I would give this a shot. I purchased a Play One, which had been opened by the previous user. After several months, it stopped working. No lights, nothing. This may be repairable through sonos. Is there a problem with it being opened? Also, is this a repair I may be able to do myself?
If it's been opened Sonos will not touch it. That sounds like a power supply issue, depending on your level of expertise/bravery you may be able to identify and replace a failed component.
I bought zp100 connect amp, tried to hook up my speakers and something blew in my amp, it powers up now but cant get any sound from her now, anyone help me on this??
Mur,
Can you expand on what "blew up in my amp" means? Did the unit ever work? "No sound" can be caused by communication issues.
Can you expand on what "blew up in my amp" means? Did the unit ever work? "No sound" can be caused by communication issues.
Can you expand on what "blew up in my amp" means? Did the unit ever work? "No sound" can be caused by communication issues.
It did work until I tried change the speakers, when attempting to plug speakers in to unit something got fried inside the amp and a small cloud of smoke came from unit. Now unit powers up but does not power speakers? A component must have fried!
Mur,
Oh, that's bad. "Smoke" runs the world. If its smoke escapes, the device stops working. On the positive side, there is usually a charred component to draw one's attention, giving a broad hint about the fundamental problem.
There is no field service for SONOS. Continuing to use the unit will probably increase the damage.
Some users have successfully repaired their unit. Unfortunately, there is no documentation.
Oh, that's bad. "Smoke" runs the world. If its smoke escapes, the device stops working. On the positive side, there is usually a charred component to draw one's attention, giving a broad hint about the fundamental problem.
There is no field service for SONOS. Continuing to use the unit will probably increase the damage.
Some users have successfully repaired their unit. Unfortunately, there is no documentation.
I have a ZP-100 which now powers up and plays music for a little while. It then cuts out, the white indicator light remains on but it becomes unresponsive in the Sonos controller, eventually disappearing. I've spoken to support and they recommended a factory reset which hasn't made any noticeable difference.
Given the predictable abrupt cut-out after a short period of time, any thoughts on whether this is this likely to be hardware related?
Given the unit is quite old, I don't know if Sonos would offer to repair, so should I consider opening it up to take a look?
Given the predictable abrupt cut-out after a short period of time, any thoughts on whether this is this likely to be hardware related?
Given the unit is quite old, I don't know if Sonos would offer to repair, so should I consider opening it up to take a look?
Page 1 / 2
Enter your username or e-mail address. We'll send you an e-mail with instructions to reset your password.