Do this at your own risk. You will no doubt void your warranty if you break something.
http://farm1.static.flickr.com/113/293505012_1b3a9ffc8a_d.jpg
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matting remvoed. Remove the six screws hold the upper and lower assembly piece together.
The screws at the top right and bottom left are longer then the other four.
http://farm1.static.flickr.com/106/293504579_d5d5a9efeb.jpg
The screws at the top right and bottom left are longer then the other four.
http://farm1.static.flickr.com/106/293504579_d5d5a9efeb.jpg
Carefully separate the pieces. You will probably want to turn the controller off before actually doing this.
http://farm1.static.flickr.com/107/293505010_7bdb3e0ad2.jpg
http://farm1.static.flickr.com/107/293505010_7bdb3e0ad2.jpg
cnewlander wrote:
Do this at your own risk. You will no doubt void your warranty if you break something.
A good warning, and to clarify, you'll void your warranty even if you don't break anything.
-graham
This picture shows the gasket. It is the small orange line around the perimeter of the bottom assembly. It feel like silcone and will probably take a very long time to dry out. If it does some rtv silcone from the local auto parts would probably work nicely if needed.
http://farm1.static.flickr.com/118/293504577_7180a6e169.jpg
http://farm1.static.flickr.com/118/293504577_7180a6e169.jpg
Here is a picture of the battery i found from the last CR100 i assembled... its soft sided and can easily be damaged if bent, caught on an edge etc. If the skin is punctured the battery could overheat or malfunction.
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Trying to show the connector on the board.
http://farm1.static.flickr.com/99/293503567_8154d13b1a.jpg
http://farm1.static.flickr.com/99/293503567_8154d13b1a.jpg
There is tape holding the battery wires. Carefully lift the tape. The tape appears to be part of the battery.
http://farm1.static.flickr.com/116/293503566_408b63916f.jpg
http://farm1.static.flickr.com/116/293503566_408b63916f.jpg
Carefully lift the battery from the side shown. It is aslo held in with adhesive towards the left. Do no yank or pull the battery quickly. Lift slowly to weaken the adhesive which can be better viewed in the next photo.
http://farm1.static.flickr.com/121/293503563_ca72152f13.jpg
http://farm1.static.flickr.com/121/293503563_ca72152f13.jpg
cnewlander wrote:
It's a lithium polymer cell so of course its softsided. If the controller is being opened to replace the battery wouldn't it be a safe bet to say the battery is no longer of any value?
The same precoutions apply to the new battery as the one that is being replaced.
(good pics btw)
Thanks cnewlander for the detailed writeup and pics!
For completeness, I would have liked a closeup of the text on the battery - purely out of curiosity.
I think I read:
-------------
E5045135
E1I17-J50
3600mAh 3.70
-------------
For completeness, I would have liked a closeup of the text on the battery - purely out of curiosity.
I think I read:
-------------
E5045135
E1I17-J50
3600mAh 3.70
-------------
The battery appears to be a Lionik Li-Polymer DVD/Laptop Series Cell 3.7v 3600mAh, Model PL-0548135 http://www.lionikbattery.com/liju/dvde.htm
justintime;48768 wrote:
Ken...
When I look at the CRADDLE, I see 2 metal prongs that stick out a whole lot. I can't imagine the contreoller metals not making contact with the prongs on the craddle, no matter what the circumstances.
So, are you talking about the 2 metal contacts on the controller that can be seen from outside (underside) of the CR100? Or are you referring to some prongs that are INSIDE the cr100, that make cotact with the metals? I imagine the later, because otherwise this makes no sense to me.
Thanks!
When I look at the CRADDLE, I see 2 metal prongs that stick out a whole lot. I can't imagine the contreoller metals not making contact with the prongs on the craddle, no matter what the circumstances.
So, are you talking about the 2 metal contacts on the controller that can be seen from outside (underside) of the CR100? Or are you referring to some prongs that are INSIDE the cr100, that make cotact with the metals? I imagine the later, because otherwise this makes no sense to me.
Thanks!
INSIDE.
the metal tabs being discussed are the ones at the bottom of this photo.
http://farm1.static.flickr.com/118/293504577_7180a6e169.jpg
When assembled they make contact with the two 'gold squares' near the bottom center in this photo...
http://farm1.static.flickr.com/121/293503563_ca72152f13.jpg
To all:
Don't blame me or Sonos if you void your warranty or cause pesonal injury/property damage. Do this at your own risk.
With the direction this thread is taking it may be a good idea to move it to the unsupported section of the forum.
Thanks cnewlander and Avee for keeping the pics going.
I can go ahead changing the battery with some confidence tonight.
Btw my original battery lasted 4 years so cant complain.
I can go ahead changing the battery with some confidence tonight.
Btw my original battery lasted 4 years so cant complain.
My CR100 would not charge on the cradle, only through the charge socket.
I tested the idea of the metal contacts not contacting correctly by squeezing the front and back of the controller whilst in the cradle and it started charging.
I followed the instructions of this topic to take my contoller apart, cleaned the contacts, bent them up slightly and now my controller is charging in the dock.
Thank you for saving my controller 🙂
I tested the idea of the metal contacts not contacting correctly by squeezing the front and back of the controller whilst in the cradle and it started charging.
I followed the instructions of this topic to take my contoller apart, cleaned the contacts, bent them up slightly and now my controller is charging in the dock.
Thank you for saving my controller 🙂
What kind of glue are you guys using to properly glue the blue rubber piece back in place?
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