Guide to Changing the CR100 Battery

The battery appears to be a Lionik Li-Polymer DVD/Laptop Series Cell 3.7v 3600mAh, Model PL-0548135 http://www.lionikbattery.com/liju/dvde.htm

Ken...

When I look at the CRADDLE, I see 2 metal prongs that stick out a whole lot. I can't imagine the contreoller metals not making contact with the prongs on the craddle, no matter what the circumstances.

So, are you talking about the 2 metal contacts on the controller that can be seen from outside (underside) of the CR100? Or are you referring to some prongs that are INSIDE the cr100, that make cotact with the metals? I imagine the later, because otherwise this makes no sense to me.

Thanks!

INSIDE.

the metal tabs being discussed are the ones at the bottom of this photo.
http://farm1.static.flickr.com/118/293504577_7180a6e169.jpg

When assembled they make contact with the two 'gold squares' near the bottom center in this photo...
http://farm1.static.flickr.com/121/293503563_ca72152f13.jpg

To all:
Don't blame me or Sonos if you void your warranty or cause pesonal injury/property damage. Do this at your own risk.

With the direction this thread is taking it may be a good idea to move it to the unsupported section of the forum.

Thanks cnewlander and Avee for keeping the pics going.

I can go ahead changing the battery with some confidence tonight.

Btw my original battery lasted 4 years so cant complain.

My CR100 would not charge on the cradle, only through the charge socket.

I tested the idea of the metal contacts not contacting correctly by squeezing the front and back of the controller whilst in the cradle and it started charging.

I followed the instructions of this topic to take my contoller apart, cleaned the contacts, bent them up slightly and now my controller is charging in the dock.

Thank you for saving my controller 🙂

What kind of glue are you guys using to properly glue the blue rubber piece back in place?

Hrmmm tried 2 different types of glue, bad results. Any reco for proper glue to stick the blue rubber backing in place again?

justintime,

I would think that a rubber cement would be effective. Sometimes it is sold as "contact cement." Make sure that it is fresh.

In automotive stores there are some rubber based gasket cements that could be effective. There are actually different types. Some are rubber based and some are not. If you need to try different adhesives, don't pick from the same chemistry.

This class of adhesive is a "coat both surfaces and wait" affair. Be sure to wait long enough. If you press the surfaces together too soon the adhesive will not be completely degassed. The trapped gasses will expand and literally blow the joint apart.

In any case, a hard setting cement is a bad choice.

I tried rubber cement, it did not work either. As a matter of fact, at this point the blue rubber insert must be 'stretched', because I cannot even form fit it tight in place... it just sags. This just stinks!!! I lost all faith in this. I am NEVER going to be able to put the darn insert back in... no way to glue it in place, and even then , it is now not conforming..

I have no idea what happened, it must be all the 'fitting' into place and then cleaning off all the cement from repeated failures that stretched the rubber.

Fat chance Sonos would sell me a new rubber insert, huh? *&^%%$$!!!

justintime,

Let the membrane sit for a while. It is possible that all of the solvents from the failed attempts have caused the membrane to distend. With luck, the solvents will work their way out and the membrane will recover at least some of its former shape.

Out of curiosity, which side seemed to reject the bonding attempts? The gasket material or the plastic case?

It sat overnight, no recovery. It is stretched... I think the GooGone (which I used to clean it) reacted with the rubber. I am contacting Sonos to see if they can sell me a replacement.

justintime,

Let the membrane sit for a while. It is possible that all of the solvents from the failed attempts have caused the membrane to distend. With luck, the solvents will work their way out and the membrane will recover at least some of its former shape.

Out of curiosity, which side seemed to reject the bonding attempts? The gasket material or the plastic case?