Connect the Beam to your router temporarily with an Ethernet cable. Wait 2 minutes, then open up your controller. Both the Beam and the Sub should be showing, and you can then change the network in your Sonos controller. Once you’ve done that, you can remove the Ethernet cable. 

This is similar to the dilemma faced by household members when the door locks are changed. You can’t simply change the locks and leave a pile of new keys on the kitchen counter. As members return home, they will not be able to enter the locked house and pickup a new key. Temporarily wiring BEAM will allow you to install the new WiFi credentials.

@buzz To me this is not completely true. To stay with your analogy, Sonos does allow the household members to be helped to reach through the letterbox and get to the keys. It’s just this method does not seem to be working for TS.

I’ve never tried this, but since Sonos devices can remember more then one network, could you not put in the new credentials while the old network credentials are still valid and only after you’ve done that change them on the router?

I ended up doing a factory reset on both of them and that manage to fix the problem. Thank you though I’ll keep that in mind. 

Yes, but this always seems like wasted, post event advice.

Do i connect to WAN or Lan to set up a new product?

(Context: I’m trying to install an old Bridge on S1) It installs on LAN but as soon as i disconnect the bridge to locate it properly further away ...it disappears from system..

Yes i know i could do the same with a BOOST but i’d have to disconnect my S2 accessible products and downgrade the boost using S2 then return to S1 hoping all well…..which will take, oh, about 2 months art this rate...:(

LAN. Further, assume that BRIDGE has reached EOL (End of Life) until proven otherwise. Your symptoms suggest EOL.

Ok thank you. Not heard EOL before . Not just ‘broken’???? Lights all working...and connects via LAN but of course cannot prove signal is ‘bridged or extended’….:(

At this point BRIDGE can suffer from multiple, intermittent, hard to describe issues. If you can measure voltage, the power supply should provide slightly over 5V. Less than this the fun begins. Plus, BOOST’s more modern radio is much more effective. Hence ‘EOL’.

Power supply at 4.55 V. I’ll get round to trying the BOOST...:(

You are better off powering down BRIDGE because it is being nasty.

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That looks bad, makes your choice easy.

Sometimes the power looks good on a meter but is pretty ugly on a scope, that is tough to find if you don’t have one handy.

Depending on the meter, you can switch to measuring AC voltage. For a functional DC power supply, this AC measurement should be near zero. This is just a quickie test. Most meters, especially the cheap ones, do a poor job at measuring the ripple voltage and one should be careful when attempting to make a definitive statement (such as claiming ‘A’ is better than ‘B’), but if this measurement is not near zero, the power supply is defective.

No i dont have a handy scope, but i can test AC. My meter is close enough and these gadgets should work over a range. Bridge is about 17 years old. (My Technics linear turntable still works perfectly at 40 years.) 

Sadly Sonos got less than perfect innards in the Bridge power brick.

Replacing the power supply with a compatible unit might be possible.

Replacing BRIDGE’s power supply might eek a little extra life out of BRIDGE, but in my opinion this is a hollow victory. In today’s much denser wireless environment, BRIDGE’s technology is easily overwhelmed. BOOST is better in this respect, but it too is becoming dated.

The parts count in your Technics is much lower and it does not need to bother with constantly evolving radio communication.

Yes, BRIDGE can operate over a short range, but the lower bound is 5.0V. I don’t know the upper bound, but I wouldn’t expect it to be more than 5.5V.

ok thanks for insights. :)