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Contributor I
July 28, 2016

Dead Play:5 need schematics or tips

  • July 28, 2016
  • 208 replies
  • 59397 views
Hi

Play:5, manufacturing date sometime around 2009, is completely dead. No light in LED.

Found several cases of this online, but no solutions.

Does anyone have any knowledge about the problem, og better yet, schematics..

I mainly suspect problem in switch mode power supply. Have only done very basic measuring, but I find 220VAC on primary side, no power on secondary side. I think about ordering a mosfet, and/or a diode I suspect, but if I had schematics I could do some more pinpointing..
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208 replies

Lyricist III
November 11, 2023

Probably an Texas instruments SN74AC04 or 74AC04

Lyricist III
November 11, 2023

I just fixed a Sonos play 5 gen 1. 

 

I had to replace the bridge rectifier and fuse.

I also had to replace all except 1 cap on secondary and 2 on primary. First i replaced 8 caps with bulge and tryed the speaker. It started and played but 1 mid and 1 tweeter didnt work. 

Started to faultfind and all seemed fine. Then i tested the 2 small output caps (100uF) they were 12pF and 48pF. 

I just then decided to take off all secondary electrolytic caps and test them. All bad except one 😛

 

Works great 👍

 

Only one problem. I used a 2,5A fuse instead of 3.15A cause i had only 4A next size. Seems to hold for now

 

Im not sure its worth it in cost but i enjoy fixing stuff 😊

 

Lyricist III
November 16, 2023

Hi, First post here and I’m asking for help with my Play 5 1gen. Bought used and claimed to be working. It powers up fine and connects to WiFi, also streams music fine, so power supply and networking components all working. Problem is both the left and right mids have gone and bass sounds questionable. Now in opening it up it has been worked on before, I can see older style resistors added and think bridge rectifier replaced. There is clear evidence that the main amplifier capacitors have been looked at...probably de-soldered and tested and refitted, this is judging by the flux stains on the back of the board. So I’m assuming speaker failed for power supply issue but when that was fixed the sound issue was discovered, capacitors checked but no solution found.

Now when I visually check board at the amplifier section there is carnage with what looks like multiple failed components. See pics:

 The capacitors  C27604 & C27608 were barely attached by one leg and fell off as soon as I touched them, They look OK (tiny) one measures 3.5nF, the other 0.24nF...don’t know if this means good or bad? The fact that they were hanging off must mean they have blown?

  Resistor R27852...looks bad and measures 2.7Mohms

 

This is the biggy…..Q27303 has exploded, Q27305 and diode D27305 have split casing which I assume means they must have failed? Diode D27306 looks OK but board around it looks a bit cooked?

Lastly and this I’m assuming is nothing but this capacitor on the power section of the board is not connected, legs are just bent over and glued to board. Any idea what this is about. Its capacitor C27881.

So question….is it even worth or rather possible attempting to repair? I have no experience of surface mount electronics like this but do have a soldering station so…..happy to give it a go and see it as an interesting project. Bigger issue I’m guessing is identifying component and their availability.

So what do you think guys any and all thoughts gratefully received!

Lyricist III
November 16, 2023

U definitely have capacitor issues. I would fix bad capacitors first and also mount that glued cap properly. The cap next to it have a bulge on top so its bad. Probably more caps.

Lyricist III
November 16, 2023

U definitely have capacitor issues. I would fix bad capacitors first and also mount that glued cap properly. The cap next to it have a bulge on top so its bad. Probably more caps.

Thanks for that quick reply Ken. Now that you’ve pointed it out….yes capacitor next door does have a bulging top indeed well noted.  I’ve looked in detail at all other big capacitors and that’s the only one with bulging top. That cap was one that has been previously removed and refitted. So that needs replacing but your also saying that the the one with the bent legs glue to board should be properly installed….wonder why anyone would leave it this way?

For clarity this is the cap with bulging top:

 

Lyricist III
November 16, 2023

Yes thats the one thats bad. The other glued on...is it also soldered? Could be that track is broken on the other side of board so they mounted it like that.

 

Lyricist III
November 16, 2023

Seems to be repairable but there is alot of work, skill and correct tools to get it right. 

Lyricist III
November 16, 2023

Yes thats the one thats bad. The other glued on...is it also soldered? Could be that track is broken on the other side of board so they mounted it like that.

 

 

Now that I look at it closely the furthest away leg is soldered on...just but the front leg is not, just glued! It looks...because this capacitor is maybe bigger diameter than the original, they thought it was quick and easy just to bend legs and fit in this way…..clearly very badly! So sorting out these easy to fix capacitors on the power side of the board will give me a bit of practice!

Lyricist III
November 16, 2023

Seems to be repairable but there is alot of work, skill and correct tools to get it right. 

mmm skill I don’t have...tools I can acquire.  From somebody with no experience these tiny capacitors look the most difficult...is there any way I can find out what they actually are?

Contributor I
November 16, 2023

For me, both mids and highs were also without function. I replaced all the capacitors, after that no more problems.