Contributor I

Dead Play:5 need schematics or tips

208 replies
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Hi

Play:5, manufacturing date sometime around 2009, is completely dead. No light in LED.

Found several cases of this online, but no solutions.

Does anyone have any knowledge about the problem, og better yet, schematics..

I mainly suspect problem in switch mode power supply. Have only done very basic measuring, but I find 220VAC on primary side, no power on secondary side. I think about ordering a mosfet, and/or a diode I suspect, but if I had schematics I could do some more pinpointing..

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timc995

Prominent Collaborator I

Thank you so much!!!

3 speakers are not working. sub and one middle are working.

i didn´t find these mosfets (in small quantities) in europe, so i´m gonna order at aliexpress. estimated delivery date end of may…

Mouser doesn’t have this in stock for me (in Canada) either, but they have this: https://www.mouser.ca/ProductDetail/Diodes-Incorporated/DMP3105LVT-7?qs=T%2FOtf55vL7eU%252Ba2ENkxGkA%3D%3D

Looks like it may be compatible. It has some different specs, but it’s cheap enough that I’d be inclined to try it out rather than wait 2 months...

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Shamudi

Trending Lyricist I

I have no idea, but can tell me somebody, what part it is,it is brocken. There is writtrn "2F8".

I found an old Play:5 board, and this was labelled 2fx on the one I found. That also doesn’t come up, but if I had to guess, I’d say it is an NPN transistor BC850W. That’s based on the ‘2f’ part of the code(s), and the fact that it’s an SOT-323 device. https://www.s-manuals.com/smd/2f

Thank you for your tip. I look again and you are right, its 2fx written on the Pieve. But it is to small, so i think,its an SOT 23...so what could it be?

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Billiards4Me

Lyricist I

Seems I’m in the right place.
Play:5 2nd gen

lower 3 speakers work fine. Top left & right outer speakers very faint. Top center tweeter doesn’t seem to output at all.
audio pcb board doesn’t seem to show anything with obvious damage. All visible capacitors seem fine.
thoughts?

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DazBags

Lyricist I

SO… My success 2 days ago inspired me to have another look at the two other dead units that I have.

I found a common problem to both of them, and got both working!

I had looked at everything in the high voltage section of the power supply, and couldn’t find any bad components. Despite this, the devices were both not working, and on closer inspection were resetting about once every 5 seconds… There was power ramping up, and just as it hit 20V in the driver power to the IC, it would fall back to 10V or so and start over. This is a problem that others have had on this forum (and in this thread).

I looked at the datasheet for the PWM (ICE2QS02G), and realized that I had not checked the feedback section of the circuit. This is the bit on the ‘other side’ of the opto-isolator. Most of this part of the circuit is buried in glue, but sure enough, when I checked the resistors there, both of my devices had bad resistors in the same spot! The resistor in question is a very small surface mount, with the marking “68b”. Looking in the EIA listings , this is a 4.99k resistor. Both of my devices had open resistors. I added 1/8 watt 4.7k resistors (I didn’t have 5k), and lo and behold both devices now work.

The lower value resistor did have the effect of making the device run at 13V/26V instead of 12V/24V. I don’t see this as a problem, as there are several EH31 regulators on the board, and the only thing (I think) that would be driven directly by these voltages would be the actual audio amplifiers. Those should be tolerant.

new resistor -- fixed boot issue and device works great now!

This was my problem too! Main caps, rectifier etc. were all good, but this resistor was open circuit. Put a 4k7 across it and the unit now works perfectly!

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Shamudi

Trending Lyricist I

Hi folks, I haven't continued to build on the Play 5 for a long time, but now it's going on.After replacing the bridge rectifier, the fuse, the mosfet and the PWM, among other things, it is now the case that when I check the PWM in diode mode, the correct values are displayed everywhere, except when I measure PIN8 and PIN 4. My other box shows 0.78V, now the broken box shows OL.I believe it's called Voltage Drop.Can someone help me and tell me what could be the reason that nothing is displayed to me? I have already measured everything on HV, everything seems to be correct.And in general, what influences a voltage drop?Diodes, resistors, capacitors?

Thank you.

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Shamudi

Trending Lyricist I

Also the Voltag drop between PIN 1 and PIN4 at the rectifier is wrong.

What could it be or is it the same fault as at the PWM?

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torro

Contributor I

After 2 weeks, i found a failure. First both mid speakers were dead.

After replacing this cap

the right mid speaker worked again. But not the left one. i had almost every part in my hands until i found it. one mosfet had a slightly different voltage drop when measuring. Replaced it and YEAH!!!

The pics are taken of a spare mainboard, so don´t wonder about the black holes and missing parts.

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torro

Contributor I

Today i started the repair of my first gen2. I saw similar pictures in this thread, unfortunately without solution… Maybe one of you has an idea.

The speaker works with 24V injected. So it´s worth trying.

Has anyone succesfully repaired this?

Thanks, Flo

Contributor I

Lyricist I

My Play:5 working again. If nothing helps you can power it with an external adapter.

My setup:

A laptop power adapter (20V - 6A)
DC-DC converter (24-12V)
DC connector (female)

The power is enough for max volume and there is no problem.

Thanks for the advice.

You beat me to it by a few hours! Nice job!

I just repaired mine too. I ordered a 24V/4A power supply very cheap on AMazon… $18CAD https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B08NYHM4J9/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 . I chose this one because it was 250 grams, approximately 95 watts, and the size seemed like it would fit -inside- the case.

I had a few DC-DC converters on hand like this: https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B07Y88RTXJ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I was fortunately able to fit everything inside the case. I piggybacked the 120V supply to the AC-DC supply from the existing socket, and connected my DC-DC converter at the triple inductor like I had suggested a week or so ago. I opened the power supply case, removed the existing wires, and soldered it all in directly. I had to trim the two bass reflex ports about an inch, and was able to position the brick just below those centered between the two mid speakers at the back of the case. I wrapped the PS brick it in a sheet of foam to avoid vibration. It’s a snug fit, but everything went together perfectly. There is no vibration, and I can’t tell the sound difference between this and an unmodified speaker.

@timc995 , @mesahin , sound like a practical solution . i’m a complete electronics novice but have a soldering iron and planning to deploy it :). i have a 12v 5a and a 24v 5a supply, do i connect both negative lines to ground and the +12V and +24v as below?

Can anyone help clarify if the below diagrams look correct, completely unsure where the -12 V and -24V lines go to,? both to ground?

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