My Play 3 died the other day and I am just outside my warrenty period 😞 I contacted sonos customer services who did not help me in the slightest. I have now looked at the power supply board and seen that the board around one of the input capacitor has burnt out and or the cap itself.
As customer services won't even sell me a new power board, does anyone have a circuit diagram for this board so i can attempt to repair it myself. ( I am competent with electronics).
P/N: RN-002657 (board number)
Also has anyone else experienced this fault. I am assuming a power surge has done this.
Play 3 Powersupply fault.
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First post! Welcome to the forums.
SONOS does not support DIY service in any way. I know that this policy chaffs some, but it probably eliminates some legal risk and saves a lot of time supporting DIY's of various skill levels. SONOS is not unique for establishing this policy.
Burnt traces and capacitors are usually the victim of a larger drama.
Yes I guess its probably the best policy for them.
I guess I will be getting my multimeter out and spend some time figuring it out. Doesn't look like a complex supply so should be pretty easy to find the fault.
I will keep posting my findings
Upon stripping down the play three which proved pretty easy due to its modular design, the issue with the power supply board was the capacitor (C306) had exploded. This is the smoothing capacitor post bridge rectifier. When this exploded it also took out the PCB track sandwiched between the board (multilayer PCB).
After bridging the broken track and replacing the Capacitor with another 33uF 4ooV from RS, the supply was tested and all good.
My Play 3 is now back in action.
Thanks for the follow up.
Did you monitor the temperature of C306 for a while after the repair? I doubt that the original capacitor was the generic type that one would expect to find at Radio Shack. If the ripple current is beyond the replacement capacitor's capability, you'll be repeating this exercise again.
I expect that there are small capacitors across the bridge rectifier. Did these look OK? If you have a second PLAY:3 and a portable AM radio, place the radio near the repaired PLAY:3 and compare the emissions with a never repaired PLAY:3 (this is tricky, be sure to use identical relative positioning for each test) If emission from the repaired PLAY:3 is substantially higher than the never repaired unit, be suspicious. Of course you could have more emissions because of a simple re-assembly issue, but there might be more.
I have recently been contacted regarding the above issue happening to another Sonos user. Unfortunately, as i have only posted 3 times I cannot reply to you privately however I hope that you can view this link to a few photos of the circuit diagram and damage to the board.
Let me know how you get on.
She contacted Sonos who told her it would cost her around £120 just to look at her Play 3? Interesting approach to customer support for a high end product!
As I am a bit of a dab hand with electronics I agreed to take a look for free! Having dismantled the Play 3, I discover part of the PSU board is burnt out, sounding familiar? Is this a common mode failure for the Play 3 or Sonos units in general?
I was interested to read this post as it seems to follow a similar trend, are there more out there?
I will investigate further and advise what I find with regards to the actual fault.
Not that we're aware of, and some of us have been hanging out around these forums for a number of years. We're pretty familiar with the main failure modes for each unit, and PSU burn-out is not one of them. In fact, I'm not even sure that there's any consistent pattern of failures for PLAY:3 at all.
Servicing is quite similar to a hospital. After a quick walk through it's easy to come away thinking that "everyone" is sick -- and they might all have the same problem. Even if a very small percentage of a given model fails, there can be quite a pile of a popular item in the national service center.
C'mon guys we weren't born yesterday and some of us have sufficient knowledge of electronics reliability to recognise a common mode failure.
By replacing the pot was everything ok as it looks like some of the PCB blown too ?Why cant Sonos provide a complete board change as an electrician I am always doing component changes on boards. Can anyone assist with a new board?
SONOS adopt a policy of not supporting third party repairs so they do not currently supply replacement boards, but if enough of us complain they might just listen, or least provide circuit diagrams so that we can see what needs to be replaced. Are you reading this SONOS?
My board is so badly burnt that the inter layer tracks have burnt out so replacing the capacitor didn't do the trick, I have been to busy to investigate further, but will be interested in yours or anyone else's experiences!
Cracked it open and turns out I have the same power board revision as what jamietaylor13 posted except my capacitors were fine.
Turns out the digital power switch literally blew its guts out. Likely through a power surge. I heard rattling as I was dissasembling and it was the top of the chip exploring it's new-found freedom inside the unit. Fortunately the chip number was still visible on the little cap bouncing around.
It was a Fairchild Green Mode Power Switch model number FSQ0565R but none can be had outside of 1 month shipping from China so I found the next model up FSQ0765R which is pretty much the same except a little beefier with power handling. Ordered one off fleabay for 6 quid and arrived next day. Today I soldered that bad boy in and still had no power so I had to start tracing back the power source and found that the fuse had also blown. It's the tiny little brown cylinder near where the 240AC enters the PCB. I soldered a temporary bridge (yes, I know, leave me alone) and woila! working!
Anyway, I thought my experience may be of help to someone else out there.
Replace the exploded cap and wire the + lead of the bridge-rectifier to the + of the replaced capacitor.
My play 3 died under penetrating smell.....
After opening I saw that capacitor (C306) was exploded and cracked the conducting paths around.
I unsoldered C306 and bridged the + lead from C319 to the + lead of the bridge-rectifier and measured power at the connector to the motherboard.
So I ordered and replaced all three capacitors wired the bridge rectifier to C306 and my unit is working again.
Thanks a lot for this guide and especially for the pictures and the wiring diagram in your dropbox!
I wonder, should they issue some kind of recall as there could potentially be a fire risk to one of these units?
It seems that this is a failure mode of PLAY:3, but here we have no idea how many have failed in this manner. It is possible that all of the failures have been reported here or only a fraction. We simply don't know. We also don't know if there are contributing factors to consider -- such as ambient temperature, power line voltage, hours of use, orientation, etc.
But I would say that just because something fails in such a way as to generate heat and discolouration does not in and of itself self imply the whole was at risk of fire.
Date: 08-04-11. Will follow the guide and replace the capacitor.