I’m trying to connect a Gen 3 Sub to a Beam unit wirelessly and I keep getting the same error. Unable to connect. I was able to connect the system using Ethernet cables but I cannot keep those connected since the Ethernet ports are in separate rooms so I need to be able to connect wirelessly. When I use wireless I’m able to add the sub and connect to my WiFi but when I try to add it to add it to the beam I get the error stating “There was a problem adding your Sub. Check the network connection and make sure your product is powered on.” How can I fix this issue?
Trouble setting up a gen 3 sub
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Have you checked your Beam to be sure the WiFi has not been turned off on it in the room settings? Have you rebooted your router?
It might be worth it if you were to submit a system diagnostic within 10 minutes trying the process of adding the Sub, and call Sonos Support to discuss it, or post the diagnostic number here for a Community Moderator to pick up.
There may be information included in the diagnostic that will help Sonos pinpoint the issue and help you find a solution.
When you speak directly to the phone folks, there are more options available beyond just the diagnostic analysis.
+16Thanks to @Airgetlam, for helping out.
Hi there @MClary101.
I appreciate your effort in submitting the diagnostic.
Upon checking, it shows that your Sonos system is wirelessly connected to Ruckus. This is a known issue wherein you’re unable to add/pair Sub (or even surround speakers) to a Sonos home theater speaker using Ruckus access points.
We suggest switching to SonosNet by wiring a Sonos player as a workaround.
If you have any questions, feel free to reach out.
Note that in this case, ‘a Sonos player’ does not include the Sub, or a surround speaker, due to the nature of the connection between the primary and secondary speakers in a Sonos setup.
Support told me that adding a boost would work. Is that true or did I just order a boost unnecessarily?
I’d suggest it was unnecessary, if you could just wire one of your speakers directly. However, if no speaker is convenient to do so, a BOOST is indeed a good option. I happen to use one.
Thanks, I guess I’ll know tomorrow if it works since I got expedited shipping. It’s not possible for me to be wired since I use that Ethernet line for my TV to avoid buffering. Here’s to hoping the boost works.
Thanks, I guess I’ll know tomorrow if it works since I got expedited shipping. It’s not possible for me to be wired since I use that Ethernet line for my TV to avoid buffering. Here’s to hoping the boost works.
An unmanaged Ethernet switch is a lot cheaper than a Boost.
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