@melvimbe so I’ve tried setting up the Tv through the Sonos app and it gives me two options: (1) plug the HDMI cord into the ARC port or (2) use the optical cord. In either case, when I have these plugged in, the Sonos app does not recognize/find the audio and I cannot set up the Tv in the app. I will try to call Sonos tonight to get help directly but do you have any thoughts there?

In the Sonos app, go to the room tab and select the room with your beam.  Then go to the Browse tab, and you should see a list of the music services you’ve setup plus TV as a source.  That’s what I was referring to in my post above.  When you’re using an optical connection.  I’m not sure you have to do any additioanl setup, but it’s been a while, could be wrong on that.

Also make sure your Shield has the right audio settings. 

Calling Sonos is a good idea.

@melvimbe tried two different Sonos people on the help line and they couldn’t help. 

I can get to the Tv source in the app, but then when I click on it to go through the set up (either through the HDMI ARC or the optical) it results in the screen that says “We are not getting a signal” and I can’t complete the setup.

I went into the Shield and selected Auto for the type of audio input it would recognize and also tried it with DD manually selected. Neither produce sound.

I guess I’m confused because I have all the tools here but am somehow not aligning them. It should work with either the splitter or the extractor (or both if really necessary) and the projector but it isn’t.

I’d just remove the Yamaha from the equation. I think that is where things are failing. Go directly to an HDMI switch. 

I have been. Just added the Yamaha back in to test if it would work. The splitter/switch and the extractor don’t produce sound. I’m not sure if its the order of operations or what...

Source set to Dolby digital. Not Auto, not Dolby Digital Plus, not anything other than Dolby Digital. This may be a challenge on your Shield,  I would be testing with something I know works, such as a standard DVD player. Once the path works, you can go back and substitute back in the Shield, or the PC, or pretty much anything else. Reduce the variables until you can prove the process works.

Source connected via HDMI to HDMI switch.

Optical cable from HDMI switch to adapter for Beam, or directly to PLAYBAR or PLAYBASE.

HDMI cable from switch to viewing device for video feed.

This should work. Once you’ve proven to yourself that the process works, you can start substituting devices, like the laptop, or the Shield, as the source,  and identify whether or not they are capable of sending a Dolby Digital signal. 

Ok team, we’re making progress here.

I tried running this through another Tv under the following set up: Shield (my streaming device) HDMI plugged into back of Tv, then Beam via HDMI/optical adapter into optical output of Tv. I got picture through the Tv and audio through the Beam! Success!

I then tried introducing the extractor: Shield HDMI into input of the extractor, HDMI from extractor to Tv and optical to Beam. I got picture on my Tv but no audio on the Beam. I’m guessing this means my extractor is no good, so I’ve ordered a new one and will report back after I try that out.

Anyone have any other thoughts or a different conclusion than what I came up with?

I’d still be testing using something other than the Shield. My suspicion is that the TV’s HDMI-CEC was forcing the Shield into Dolby Digital, which is something the switch would not be able to do. 

I have the shield set to output only DD

Ok, I’ll stop commenting then. Good luck!

No, I appreciate any help I can get @Airgetlam ! Truly! I would try another input like a DVD player but I do not own one. The only other thing I can try is my laptop, which was one of the sources of error (potentially) to begin with at the start of this week.

Ok guys, I’m calling it quits. A new extractor came in today so that I could be sure I had good equipment. I tried everything, even introduced a new optical cord to connect into the audio port of the Yamaha receiver to try to then push that to the Sonos. Nothing worked. Multiple extractors, HDMI splitters, receivers, nothing is working. For some reason, when connected to the projector, the audio just did not want to work. When connected to a Tv, it worked fine…

I’m send the Sonos back and ordering some wired speakers. Thanks for everyone’s help on this!

myksad,

The projector might be part of the problem. Another component of the HDMI signals shared between the units is EDID. EDID allows sources and sinks to inform each other which audio and video formats are supported.  If your projector replies “no audio”, the source might not send audio with the video. If no audio is sent, there is nothing to extract.

I didn’t check out the spec’s of the extractors that you tried, but some switches and extractors (not the cheap models) allow one to customize the EDID sent back to the source. With one of these units you could trick the source into sending audio if the projector would normally report “no audio”.

I just had a thought - would Sonos connect work if I have my surround back speakers (two sets) hard wired into my Yamaha receiver and my Nvidia shield connected into that directly as well along with the projector as an output? Then I could use Sonos connect to bring in the Beam and the subwoofer?

Connecting an A/V source, where the audio is split and goes via a line-in to Sonos devices, will result in 'lip-sync’ issues with the projector video output, with what will be a stereo only signal, as the audio is buffered by minimum of 75ms delay in these circumstances. So I doubt this would achieve the outcome you are perhaps looking for here. 

I’ve got the ability to sync up sound/video in either the receiver or the Nvidia shield (can’t remember which) by delaying one of the feeds, so I think that would be solved but you’re right, the whole point of this is to get surround sound so if I can only do stereo with a Sonos Connect, then this is moot.

mykasd,

The Connect will only provide Stereo and if you delay the audio on your 3rd party Receiver or Shield, it still means the video out on the projector will be ahead of the audio… it maybe okay, no echo etc; but I think it would be noticeable when watching people speaking on screen. It really needs the Beam to do this, as it supports 5.1 audio, plus the delay is minimal (think of it as not buffering the audio) and it communicates with its ‘bonded’ (not 'grouped') surrounds over a faster 5ghz ad-hoc Network… less chance of lip-sync issues with that device, but appreciate you are having some issues using that product with your Yamaha Receiver involved in the mix.

@Ken_Griffiths I tried everything I could without the Yamaha in the mix: audio extractor, HDMI splitter, using another Tv as a switch basically. Nothing could get the Beam to accept the sound file while the projector was displaying picture. I’m baffled. Had a lot of smart people offering advice on what to do and we couldn’t get it set up so I had to buy a set of wired speakers for the home theater. Unfortunate.

Yes, I have been following this thread.. it’s rather baffling that you haven’t got things to work. I’m sure you have double-checked your device Settings, but 'on paper’ I would have thought it should have worked with an audio extractor/splitter by simply taking the Dolby Digital 5.1 audio from the Shield direct to the Beam and it’s surrounds ... and then splitting the video off to your Projector.

Adding the Yamaha Receiver into the mix adds a little complexity  … like @Buzz mentioned earlier, I think the Projector and EDID might be where the problem lies for you and my thought was to perhaps run a 'playing‘ 5.1 audio source to the Beam from the Shield using an HDMI-ARC connection (not Optical) and then introduce the projector connection into the setup afterwards, once you have confirmed the playing audio is correctly being output ....the idea being that the initial HDMI-ARC handshake between the Shield and Beam sets up the Dolby surround audio and by adding the Projector afterwards it will (hopefully) not alter the original handshake … but not sure if that would work?

I 'think' you can purchase EDID adapters to force the correct HDMI handshake required, but it’s not something I have ever used myself, personally speaking.

Sometimes unplugging an HDMI cable for a second will trigger the EDID to successfully renegotiate the setup.