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Matt_28
Contributor I
March 12, 2015

Samsung TV won't pass through 5.1 on optical out if input is HDMI, need suggestions

I have a Playbar, and a Samsung TV that won't pass through 5.1 from its optical out if the input is HDMI. Our Motorola cable box is connected to our TV using HDMI, and I want to get the 5.1 when I watch TV.

I've looked through the questions and answers posted here and elsewhere, and it seems like some people have used an HDMI switch from Monoprice with an optical out to get around this problem.  The suggestion is to connect the HDMI source to the HDMI switch, and the HDMI switch sends out the full 5.1 audio through the optical out and into the Playbar.  (I'll call this the "HDMI switch" approach.)  

The other approach is to connect the cable box's optical out directly to the Playbar.  (I'll call this the "cable box direct" approach.)  This works, but I don't like this approach because we leave our cable box on at all times, and when we turn off the TV, the Playbar still plays audio from the cable box, as the Playbar has no idea that the TV's been turned off.  It's an inconvenience that I don't want to have to deal with.  

Note that with either approach, there is no physical connection from the TV to the Playbar.  

Having said all that, the main issue for me is that we use the TV's built-in Netflix and Amazon Video apps.  If I went with the HDMI switch approach, then, when we watch Netflix, there will be no audio sent to the Playbar.  

I looked into HDMI switches and ARC (using ARC to send the Netflix audio back to the HDMI switch, then out to the optical out), but this doesn't seem like it's been tested.  

I also thought about using an optical out switch, where I could switch between optical out sources.  However, to do this, I would have to get an HDMI switch with optical out, then connect that optical output into the optical out switch, then to the Playbar.  That seems like a lot of work/money/effort.  

Any suggestions?  
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    36 replies

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    absolutdahl
    Lyricist I
    August 11, 2016
    Thanks for the help here Matt. I bought the Monoprice Switch and I'm having a tough time getting it setup. Intermittently it kind of works but not really. I've got my Time Warner cable box plugged into the switch ahd my switch HDMI Arc going to my Samsung HDMI arc. I've got an optical cable from the switch to my Sonos Playbar.

    On initial turn on of the TV it takes about 20 seconds and then the sound finally comes on. When I switch to watching an app I pick one and get sound, but if I switch to another app or back to TV the sound is off.

    So frustrating!!!

    Hi everyone, 

    An update - I got everything to work as I wanted.  

    I got this switch from Monoprice - http://www.monoprice.com/Product?c_id=101&cp_id=10110&cs_id=1011002&p_id=7974 - and set it up like this:

    - HDMI from cable box into Monoprice switch
    - HDMI from TV into Monoprice switch (the ARC HDMI slot - this is important)
    - Optical from Monoprice switch to PlayBar

    At first, I wasn't getting 5.1 sound to the PlayBar with this setup.  I read the manual that came with the switch, and changed the jumper setting to pull/push 5.1 no matter what (Mode 2), and that solved the issue.  The jumpers are on the back (there are three switches).  

    Now, when I watch TV, I have 5.1 sound.  And, when I watch Netflix through the Netflix app on the TV, I have 5.1 sound then as well.

    I did have some issues with the HDMI-CEC Support between the TV and the switch and trying to get that to work.  When I turned off the TV, the CEC commands would turn off the switch fine, but it wouldn't turn the switch back on when the TV was turned on.  Ultimately, I ended up turning CEC off on the TV.  Now the switch is on 24/7, but I have it tucked behind the TV, so it's not a big deal for me.  

    Hope this helps someone.  

    -Matt

    tobbe321
    Lyricist I
    August 28, 2016
    You don't need to buy an expensive switch. The only thing you need is a small box taking care of the EDID paramaters between the TvBox and the Samsung TV.
    It is connected with HDMI cables in between these. I bought this one and it solved all my frustration of not getting5.1 via the TV.:
    http://eud.dx.com/product/16-mode-hdmi-edid-feeder-black-844373949

    I am sure it will help you as well.
    - Tobbe -
    SWJunkie
    Lyricist I
    September 23, 2016
    Hi,

    yes, the problem is that many devices use EDID info coming from your TV to decide what audio data to feed to the TV. Almost all TV's report in EDID that they can receive only 2ch stereo (part of HDCP policy and copyright agreements .. yes, stupid, I know). You need to fake the EDID data to fool the source device to start to feed surround sound to your TV. But of course, in some cases, the TV really can't pass the surround sound to the digital audio output (HDMI ARC or Optical). But it's worth the try.

    You can use HW devices to fake the EDID data (see the replies above).

    On Windows the EDID data can be faked by SW - no HW box needed between your Windows HTPC and TV. Just use utility "Custom Resolution Utility" (search the web and download, it's easy to find) and create your own EDID according to your needs (create Custom extension block - add Audio formats 5.1, add Speaker setup 5.1, add HDMI support with "Support audio information" checked) and restart Windows. Then you'll be able in Windows speaker setup to choose 5.1 to be fed to your TV.

    - SWJunkie -
      tobbe321
      Lyricist I
      September 23, 2016
      Yes, I agree that in case of WIndows source your solution is fine.

      In any other case I recommend the small black box for less that 20 euros.
      It just needs one extra HDMI cable. No software nor any configuration needed anywhere.

      - Tobbe -
      BigGeezy
      Lyricist I
      January 13, 2017
      I have a Samsung UN60JU7100 with the external connection hub that Samsung provides on newer TVs. All my HDMI sources STB for ATT Uverse, & PS4 connect via HDMI and the optical is connected from the Samsung hub to the Playbar. I was having issues with no DD 5.1 when watching AT&T Uverse cable and found the fix in the cable box settings. I had to switch the output on the STB to surround sound and then I was able to select Dolby Digital on the Samsung TV menu. Now I get DD 5.1 for Cable, Netflix, and PS4 without having to go through a switch. I hope this helps everyone.
        buzben
        Contributor I
        February 10, 2017
        I have a Samsung UE49KS7000 4K TV with a Samsung UBD-K8500/XU 4K Blu-ray player, Virgin Media cable box and Apple TV connected to the TV (via the Samsung external connection hub).
        I am considering purchasing the Playbar but I'm worried that I may encounter silence at any time e.g. from blu-ray discs or from the Netflix app or Amazon app on the TV.
        Will I merely get stereo for now (I am not purchasing a sub yet or any surround speakers)?
        I used to have a Yamaha digital sound projector connected but moved that upstairs since it didn't have 4K passthrough.
        I hope to expand the Playbar in the future but I've seen on other review sites that DTS is a big issue for the Sonos systems.
        Any advice would be much appreciated. Thanks.
        BoredofBalham
        Prodigy II
        February 10, 2017
        The u blu ray definitely will transcode to DD via optical.

        The TV should too. That is set in settings> sound. Look at the TV manual for optical output options.
        buzben
        Contributor I
        February 23, 2017
        Update - in my blu-ray settings there was a setting to transcode DTS to DD. Set up my new Playbar today and all works fine. (May save up for the sub now...!) 😃
        binh25
        binh25
        Avid Contributor I
        April 18, 2017
        Hi,

        yes, the problem is that many devices use EDID info coming from your TV to decide what audio data to feed to the TV. Almost all TV's report in EDID that they can receive only 2ch stereo (part of HDCP policy and copyright agreements .. yes, stupid, I know). You need to fake the EDID data to fool the source device to start to feed surround sound to your TV. But of course, in some cases, the TV really can't pass the surround sound to the digital audio output (HDMI ARC or Optical). But it's worth the try.

        You can use HW devices to fake the EDID data (see the replies above).

        On Windows the EDID data can be faked by SW - no HW box needed between your Windows HTPC and TV. Just use utility "Custom Resolution Utility" (search the web and download, it's easy to find) and create your own EDID according to your needs (create Custom extension block - add Audio formats 5.1, add Speaker setup 5.1, add HDMI support with "Support audio information" checked) and restart Windows. Then you'll be able in Windows speaker setup to choose 5.1 to be fed to your TV.

        - SWJunkie -

        Thank you this solved all my issues with HTPC based surround sound 🙂
          StephenB
          StephenB
          Contributor I
          June 28, 2017
          Similar question to buzben, if I connect to a Samsung UE40D5000, will I get only stereo (what happens to middle seekers then?), or nothing at all?
          Show more replies
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