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Hi!
I want to make HT in such config:
Apple TV - Projector - two AMPs (1 - for Front Speakers, 2 - for Surr Speakers) Sub
I need digital HDMI “switch” box with:
1 - HDMI input - for Apple TV
2 - HDMI output for Projector. Projector have HDMI input.
3 - HDMI ARC output for AMP 1.
Do somebody did same setup?
Do somebody have advice about HDMI “switch”?
Best answer by TimsTelegram
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Found some “boxes”:
1 - 4K Arcana 18Gbps - https://www.hdfury.com/product/4k-arcana-18gbps/?fbclid=IwAR2jpvQoq-9PmicXPjhV1c5y8Oj2QbNqupZXCtcR9PSDM3C-dZaAFfZGMyE
2 - https://www.amazon.com/Orei-Switcher-UltraHD-Supports-Control/dp/B07ZL3SQ6K?fbclid=IwAR17xn-vgepi_3f5WvR5ZuLOXKmHtNlpV4pzxg0z_8Go-fxWoGwsQDqVfk8
Any feedback about them?
The Arcana hasn’t shipped yet. There’s a thread in this forum about it already.
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For now, I decide to use such solution:
HDMI Splitter 1-2 with Optical Audio Output+HDMI-Optical adapter.
Only one problem - Volume Control.
Use Smartphone or iPort Xpress for Volume Control.
Waiting for Arcana.
Hi all,
I am trying to create this same setup. I have the Arcana, but am stuck at the CEC step of the setup. I’m also unable to get the Apple TV to turn on CEC. I know the AppleTV can do it since when I connect the projector directly to AppleTV I can turn CEC on.
It might be an Arcana issue, but since it’s is really the Amp that is the root cause of all this extra work...I’m wondering what can be done? How come I can’t skip the CEC step...
I have no other display in my house that has ARC so I can’t push through the Amp setup that way.
I tried to run the Amp to the projector and it passes the ARC step but then asks for an audio out which I obviously don't have.
also please don’t tell me to go the Optical Audio out since AppleTV no longer has that.
I really wish everyone just connected over Ethernet… it would solve all these problems. Or just have the Amp except direct HDMI without ARC. Receivers have been doing that for a decade.
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For now I have:
Apple TV => Arcana =>
HDMI out => Projector XGIMI H3
HDMI ARC out => Sonos ARC
It works fine, but PJ only starts up by Apple TV remote (CEC) but do not switchin Off after AppleTV goes standby. I have to Turn PJ Off manualy by PJ remote.
also your original post was about two Sonos Amps. Did you swap it out for a Sonos Arc?
on the discord for HD Fury they are telling me the Amp will never work with Arcana.
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I am plan to use Arcana with Amp, but not tested it yet.
I have many Sonos systems)
I will check Amp in Monday.
I’ll save you some trouble. The Arcana would not work for me with the Amp. On the HDFury discord they told me to return the arcana and said they don’t have plans for it to work. Apparently the Arcana is only for Sonos Arc soundbar. I’ve read you might be able to setup the amp with another TV and then try it with the project /AppleTV, but I’m unable to test that. I’ve also just purchased another HDMI ARC converter to see if it will work…
OREI 4K 60Hz 18G HDMI 2.0 Audio Converter Extractor - ARC Support - SPDIF + 3.5mm Output - HDCP 2.2 - Dolby Digital/DTS Passthrough CEC, HDR, Dolby Vision HDR10 Support (HDA-925) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07T6CDPQJ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glc_fabc_xYK3Fb2ERNM4C
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So, AMP do not work with Arcana. It is a very bad news.
Very bad indeed. I’m so disappointed with the Sonos Amp product. It was a glimmer of hope that Sonos would move into a more dedicated home theatre approach. After trying a bunch of splitters and extractors and even buying a universal remote since it doesn’t even come with a remote and is unable to connect to anything but with the optical adapter… I have given up and will be returning my Amps and in-wall speakers… so sad.
I was really mad, but then I realized I was forcing Sonos Amp to do something it wasn’t designed for. Sonos, it seems, have tied themselves to the Smart TV for better or worse. That is the only thing their products can be used for, everything else is a compromise (optical is a sad backwards move). Better off having an HDMI input or USB-C input to carry future 7.1 or Atmos. The Amp ends up being a very expensive, “fancy fix” or “add on” for a simple TV. Or maybe it is just to give more permanent surrounds to their soundbars?
Maybe that’s their market?
But...does the kind of person who owns a soundbar want in-ceiling speakers? Seem’s contradictory to have such a fancy inwall solution combined with a brick soundbar on the wall. Hopefully, their market research showed this path.
I’m still so surprised that the AMP will not accept a simple HDMI input. Or that Sonos didn’t include a simple “in and out” pass-thru HDMI to integrate this into an existing home theatre. It would have saved all this headache and opened up a whole new market...again...so sad. I wished they would have hired me before COVID. Maybe I could have shown them another way… or maybe I just don’t get “it”. :)
I have 3 Amps powering 9 in-ceiling speakers, which are all for “listening only” type spaces (bathrooms, workout room, kitchen), 2 soundbars (Arc and Beam) which are attached to TVs, and lastly, an Amp, Sub, and two OneSLs for my home theater, where I have my KEF XQ5 in a place where I can finally let them rip.
If I’m watching a movie on the projector, sure, I probably won’t want to play that sound everywhere in my house, but if I’m watching any kind of sporting event on any TV or the projector, that’s likely where I’m going to replicate that through all my in-ceiling speakers, so the setup still makes plenty of sense for me.
lastly, an Amp, Sub, and two OneSLs for my home theater,
If I’m watching a movie on the projector, sure, I probably won’t want to play that sound everywhere in my house, but if I’m watching any kind of sporting event on any TV or the projector, that’s likely where I’m going to replicate that through all my in-ceiling speakers, so the setup still makes plenty of sense for me.
Right now, it’s:
AppleTV > HDMI 4:2 splitter/extractor (has HDMI A/V out, HDMI Audio only out, optical audio out, and 3.5mm audio out) > A/V out to projector and optical out to Amp w/adapter.
I tried to use the HDMI out but my cord is bad so I’m trying to swap in some Cat6 to HDMI baluns, but am out of town and haven’t tried them yet.
Right now, it’s:
AppleTV > HDMI 4:2 splitter/extractor (has HDMI A/V out, HDMI Audio only out, optical audio out, and 3.5mm audio out) > A/V out to projector and optical out to Amp w/adapter.
I tried to use the HDMI out but my cord is bad so I’m trying to swap in some Cat6 to HDMI baluns, but am out of town and haven’t tried them yet.
How do you control audio volume? The only way I found is to use the Sonos app, reprogram a Lutron remote or something like the Logitech Harmony (IR repeater). None of these is acceptable for a $600+ product that only controls two speakers. Cheaper to get a normal Denon Amp and IR repeater.
Also, have you measured any lip sync issues? Bound to happen when there is a clear disconnect between the two transmissions (HDMI>projector, Optical>Adapater>HDMI)
I need to keep the splitter/extractor in place even if the HDMI/ARC won’t work because the projector is old enough to not have DHCP.
I have plenty of things in my house that need a smart remote (Lutron Caseta switches, power shades, Honeywell WiFi thermostat, and more), so I’m about to pick up the Harmony Elite. To be honest, I’ve dropped so much money on my house during COVID that I just don’t care about the money anymore and I totally realize that’s a privilege when considering extending my Sonos setup vs other options. This also gives my wife a program to run to get the home theater ready (my projector screen is also motorized) with a single button press, which is hugely valuable in my house.
Right now, it’s:
AppleTV > HDMI 4:2 splitter/extractor (has HDMI A/V out, HDMI Audio only out, optical audio out, and 3.5mm audio out) > A/V out to projector and optical out to Amp w/adapter.
I tried to use the HDMI out but my cord is bad so I’m trying to swap in some Cat6 to HDMI baluns, but am out of town and haven’t tried them yet.
How do you control audio volume? The only way I found is to use the Sonos app, reprogram a Lutron remote or something like the Logitech Harmony (IR repeater). None of these is acceptable for a $600+ product that only controls two speakers. Cheaper to get a normal Denon Amp and IR repeater.
Also, have you measured any lip sync issues? Bound to happen when there is a clear disconnect between the two transmissions (HDMI>projector, Optical>Adapater>HDMI)
I will eventually get the Harmony remote, but did read that some products are being discontinued so researching that before I move forward.
Sorry if I misunderstood again.
Sorry if I misunderstood again.
My projector (an older JVC RS46) doesn’t have any kind of outbound ports for audio. The remote doesn’t have any volume buttons either.
I think an older AppleTV (Gen 3) which has optical audio (or perhaps the next gen AppleTV if it includes it) is a potential solution. Instead of making the video player pass the audio back, why not have the source actually be responsible?
I know it seems like the Amp pricing is a lot just to control a pair of towers, but it is some of Sonos’ most advanced tech and I’m confident it will continue to have value-added features extended to it for years to come.
Just realized today that the AMP doesn’t have HDMI pass through, which led me to this thread, and seeing your confirmation that you got it working with an HDMI splitter and the Sonos optical adapter has given me renewed confidence I can get this working!
Ideally, I would like to have a splitter with 2 HDMI outputs so I could loop it back into my basement theatre receiver as well as the baluns to my projector ad optical to the AMP, but not sure yet if that exists.
in any case, thanks for posting of your success. My daughter will be happy to be watching outdoor movies this summer!
Perhaps you could do an additional HDMI 1x2 HDMI to duplicate the display to 2 projectors.
You read that correctly - 3 FULL seconds, so currently the AMP is completely useless to me for playing audio to sync with the video.
Do you know if this is a known issue?
Using the RCA inputs on the AMP, and have tested with headphones from the HDMI/audio splitter (a Tripp-Lite P130-000-AUD4K6).
Thanks,
David
All good! :)
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