One Speaker Missing on Some Controller Not Others

You don’t mention it, but I’m going to guess you have some sort of mesh network. Try wiring a single Sonos device directly to your base router device, not one of the extensions, wait 5 minutes, and then check in the various controllers to see if they can ‘see’ all devices, and let us know. 

Sorry left that detail off. I also have:

• A Connect (wireless) that all controllers see
• A Boost (plugged in directly to router, natch)
• One of the Play 3’s is plugged directly to router (Cat 5)

Are you suggesting plug ANOTHER speaker into the router?

Hi.. As you have a Play:3 wired it’s questionable whether the Boost is adding anything, but it isn’t likely to be doing any harm.

Is the wired Play:3 the left or right speaker? (Better to be the left one)

Please check in About My System whether all speakers are listed and each has wireless method WM:0 not WM:1.

The Boost and wired Play:3 should be at least a couple of feet from the router.

Which wireless channel is your router using?  What channel is SonosNet set to use?

Further thought: with the ‘offending’ controller you might try:

1. Uninstall Sonos app
2. ‘Forget’ your home wifi 
3. Power off controller device and wait 10 seconds
4. Power it back on and reconnect to WiFi
5. Reinstall the Sonos app and choose ‘connect to existing system’

I’m with @John B here. There’s no real reason to connect two devices (the PLAY:3 and the BOOST) to your router, but it shouldn’t harm anything, either. But lacking that data was key to my suggestion, which since they are wired, it is no longer a valid response. 

There’s definitely some network oddity going on here. The controller on all devices is merely connecting to the Sonos system running across all devices and is supposed to report the data it gets back from that system, so for one controller to “see” different things than another is not normal. 

If, as John suggests, all speakers are showing WM:0 in the report, then I’d be tempted to do two things. First, a simple reboot of all speakers, to force a reload of the OS on each, on the offhand chance there’s been some sort of reason for there be be a corruption of the software they run (power surge, etc). Second, I’d recommend that you submit a system diagnostic within 10 minutes of experiencing this problem, and call Sonos Support to discuss it.

There may be information included in the diagnostic that will help Sonos pinpoint the issue and help you find a solution.

When you speak directly to the phone folks, they have tools at their disposal that will allow them to give you advice specific to your Sonos system and network.

Thanks all. In no order:

• Calling Sonos support is a fool’s errand, IMO. I have been having Music Library issues for months and they just have me spinning in circles. Plus they are only available during workday hours, when (even if I can make myself available), I can’t monkey with my home network, since it’s also technically my wife’s work network…
• The “you don’t need both the Boost and the cable in the speaker” directly contradicts advice I was given just after I installed the system. (My Connect wasn’t strong enough to make it across the ten feet of unobstructed,direct line-of-sight space in my living room to the router, so I was told I “had” to buy a Boost).
• I haven’t had to uninstall and reload all of the speakers for a few months, so it’s been nice. Not looking forward to doing all of that again. (They’re not easy to get to - isn’t that the point of Sonos? That you don’t need to be limited to where it’s easy to run speaker cable?)
• Everything is indeed on WM:0.
• Physically, there have been no known changes for months. As far as I know, no power surges, unpluggings, etc. etc. etc. The biggest thing I keep doing (besides trying to fix the furshlugginer Music Library) is having to unpair and repair the 3’s. Every so often (usually ~two weeks or so) they become either both mono speakers or they both become just one channel (easy to test with an “Eminence Front” LP or Wish You Were Here CD, tougher to discover/diagnose on a streamer).
• I’m using Channel 6. That’s the “best” option, according to my Wi Fi analyzer app (screenshot below).

I’ll try John B’s delete-controller-forget-network option. It’s tough to explain why it would go caddywumpus on the iOS and Windows controllers, and not the Android. (It would be easier to grasp if it affected just one controller).

Thanks, will try tonight.

Well the good news is now it’s missing from ALL controllers. So I’ve been able to enjoy my Sunday morning moving furniture so I can unplug speakers and plug them in and reboot routers and get absolutely nowhere.

Sucks to have to go this route but it will save your back.

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That’s a good call, Stanley, thanks. Did something like that for wife’s curlers a few years ago and was amazed at how much more sleep I got without listening to her fumble with plugs and outlets every morning…

BUT - router and boost sit atop bookcase which is in front of the outlet. (I already have hooks and loops to prevent the cords from falling, but still).

Fun thing I discovered! Unplugging the Connect entails pulling it JUST ENOUGH that the RCA cable loosens from the back of the components’ A/B switch… Which JUST ENOUGH loss of signal that it never does show up in the system (but looks A-OK to the naked eye). And of course the more you fiddle, the more you make it worse...

So everything was back! For about three sides of records.

On side four, I noticed I could only hear music from the back room. Sure enough, the app had UNselected all of my other speakers. When I tried to reselect them, it told me “unable to connect to system”.

So while waiting for my phone to reboot, I went to another controller - the Windows one - and the Play 3’s are missing! AND  it will NOT let me select “Party Mode” for the rest. (Well it lets me select, but never groups them).

I should have realized that the name of the company was “So… No”.