Skip to main content
attacama40
Headliner I
March 6, 2017
Question

Connect Amp with Sub+CCM663's cut's out, need an extra amplifier?

  • March 6, 2017
  • 25 replies
  • 1080 views
Morning all, derivative of a question asked many times (also by me) but with new scenario this time.

Have a Connect Amp (actually a new one in this location) to work alongside a Sonos Sub & two pairs of B&W ceiling speakers.

Originally installed 2 x B&W CCM616's but now fitted extra pair of B&W CCM663's & with a view to downgrading the CCM616's to bedroom duty and adding a second set of CCM663's in the kitchen.

They sound great but of course the CCM663's overshadow the CCM616's, hence the adjustments. Just to clarify, it means I have 2 616's & 2 663's working right now with the Kitchen Sonos.

But the Connect Amp cuts out when worked hard. Installed the new speakers December & unusually they not been used so much as normal....daily yes but not worked hard.

A Biffy Clyro, and Gang of Four session yesterday showed the Connect Amp to cut out when driven hard. All other rooms & Sonos boxes worked as normal. I think I'm over working the Sonos box but is opinion not deduction.

If I power down & up, then the Sonos box recovers & continues to earn a decent living.

Have a feeling I need external amplification. Have looked at this before but in the end never needed needless to say, due to more skilled advice on this site.

Would like to understand:

a. If I am over driving the Sonos unit
b. If I have some component mismatch that I'm not understanding
c. If I'm over working the Sonos then can I add a decent quality, small (tiny) footprint amp with ease

Definitely some of you have helped me with this question was way back.....think Buzz and Ratty amongst others. I cannot find that Q just now so must be very old, the scenario was a lot different anyway.

Would very much appreciate a direction on this one.....my Sonos system earns it's crust & then some but it's frustrating a little just now in this area. Many thanks in advance
    This topic has been closed for further comments. You can use the search bar to find a similar topic, or create a new one by clicking Create Topic at the top of the page.

    25 replies

    ratty
    ratty
    March 6, 2017
    The nominal impedance of the CCM663 is 8 ohms. However the quoted minimum is 4.5 ohms. Two in parallel would therefore present a minimum impedance of 2.25 ohms. This is too low, and when driven hard the CONNECT:AMP is being asked to supply too much current. C:A can support a minimum of 4 ohms.

    (I couldn't find the minimum impedance for CCM616 but assume it's similar to the above as it has an 8 ohms nominal figure.)

    You could in theory use an impedance matching device but if you're asking for a lot of volume this may not suffice. If you're open to the option of using a separate amp IMO you'd be better off pursuing that route and swapping the CONNECT:AMP for a CONNECT. The snag is that you'd then have to find an alternative subwoofer, since SUB can't bond with CONNECT.
    attacama40Author
    Headliner I
    March 6, 2017
    Ratty many thanks for the quick reply. Think I'm with you.

    The C:A O/P terminals originally had the 616's fed directly...no problem...well via speaker wall plates. Then (as you mention) I added the 663 to the same O/P terminals. I think this does mean parallel....apols should know this stuff but been a while.

    And indeed the bathroom/shower has 2 pairs of 616's wired in same way feed from a C:A that never miss a beat....and they also are worked hard.

    Possible to ask you for an example or two of the Impedance device? Also yes very happy to swap the C:A to other duties and put in a C...no problem with that.....but any suggestions of small format, high power amps that I could use? Space is somewhat limited with this part of the installation.

    Many thanks as always Ratty
      ratty
      ratty
      March 6, 2017
      Sorry I've no hands-on experience of impedance matching units. As for small amps, well google is your friend. You'd probably be looking for a little class D ('switching') power amp -- as in the C:A -- for efficiency and therefore reduced heat output.
        attacama40Author
        Headliner I
        March 6, 2017
        No problem Ratty, thanks for the steer anyway...it points me in the right direction. Cheers

        Anyone else have any experience in the small format amp field. Thanks
        Kumar
        March 6, 2017
        Why not just add another Connect Amp, one for each speaker pair? With another amp, you will have also see how to have it turn on automatically.
          attacama40Author
          Headliner I
          March 6, 2017
          Hi Kumar....I like that.....in an ordinary situation not the cheapest of solutions but it so happens that I bought a spare C:A in error end of last year that I'm not using.

          So essentially I could fit a 2nd C:A in the kitchen next to the existing one, hard wire it to an RJ45 wall plate then feed the 2nd pair of speakers out from it?

          And from convenience, I guess I could run an RJ45 from the first box to the new one? That would work ok?

          If so then this is perfect. And just edging bets, power wise, the 2nd unit would I guess be adequate (power wise) to drive the 663's?

          Love it, brilliant solution if I'm understand correctly.
          attacama40Author
          Headliner I
          March 6, 2017
          Why not just add another Connect Amp, one for each speaker pair? With another amp, you will have also see how to have it turn on automatically.

          Kumar sorry just to clarify, the last part of your reply I'm not fully understandng "you will have also see how to have it turn on automatically" .... could you just elaborate on what that means please? Thanks again
          ratty
          ratty
          March 6, 2017
          So essentially I could fit a 2nd C:A in the kitchen next to the existing one, hard wire it to an RJ45 wall plate then feed the 2nd pair of speakers out from it?
          Yes, if you have a spare C:A going for the asking. You'll obviously have to group the C:As, and re-group them after any reboot such as following a software update. Also you'll need to make sure that group volume is adjusted, not each singly.

          And from convenience, I guess I could run an RJ45 from the first box to the new one? That would work ok?

          Yes, assuming of course that the system's in SonosNet mode.

          And just edging bets, power wise, the 2nd unit would I guess be adequate (power wise) to drive the 663's?

          One would expect so. Try it and see.
          attacama40Author
          Headliner I
          March 6, 2017
          So essentially I could fit a 2nd C:A in the kitchen next to the existing one, hard wire it to an RJ45 wall plate then feed the 2nd pair of speakers out from it?
          Yes, if you have a spare C:A going for the asking. You'll obviously have to group the C:As, and re-group them after any reboot such as following a software update. Also you'll need to make sure that group volume is adjusted, not each singly.

          And from convenience, I guess I could run an RJ45 from the first box to the new one? That would work ok?

          Yes, assuming of course that the system's in SonosNet mode.

          And just edging bets, power wise, the 2nd unit would I guess be adequate (power wise) to drive the 663's?

          One would expect so. Try it and see.

          Yes is mad but I do have a spare brand new one sitting not being used.....made a mistake in the ordering & should have ordered a C for my home theatre stuff.

          Ah yes didn't consider the group volume.....I use group volume passively & event selected for pairing a couple of rooms....is there a way to permanently assign the grouping? And indeed to assign the Sonos sub for the kitchen to the two C:A's?

          Sorry showing my limited skill set now....when you say SonosNet mode, what does that mean please? All my Sonos boxes are vanilla out the box & hard wired. I have no wireless Sonos boxes....oh actually I have a very temporary Play 5 in wireless at the moment but is rare & will be short lived.

          Yes will give the 2nd box a go Ratty....need order a Flexson bracket as they are wall mounted but save that it sounds a great way forward.

          Thanks again
          ratty
          ratty
          March 6, 2017
          is there a way to permanently assign the grouping?
          No. It'll last until you reboot, or ungroup obviously.

          And indeed to assign the Sonos sub for the kitchen to the two C:A's?

          You can only bond it with one C:A. It's pretty academic if they're grouped, though it does mean that the ceiling speakers on the other C:A will be trying to handle a bit more bass.

          when you say SonosNet mode, what does that mean please? All my Sonos boxes are vanilla out the box & hard wired.

          You're in SonosNet mode (the somewhat misleadingly named 'BOOST Setup'). At least one box is wired.
            Show more replies
            Terms & ConditionsAccessibility statement